UKC

The Anchor at Pickering Pinnacle is in dire need of replacing.

In reply to Haydn Jones:

I didn't know it was afloat.

In reply to Haydn Jones:I followed my mate up an E1 there last week and was shocked to see what he was using as a belay, I was even more shocked when he said this is the abseil! 2 old pegs tied off with some very old tat backed up with an old nut which lifted out very easy, we searched about for alternatives but couldn't find anything else, tried to keep weight off rope as much as possible by going down the hvs on the arete but. Eventually full weight was on rope on very steep terrain with heart in mouth. Doesn't seem to be much rock on the top just grass.

In reply to jamie ward:

Simul abseil off either side!?!

In reply to Haydn Jones: The trick is to keep a rope free, then your second ties it to a tree behind you before setting off, and you anchor on to that!
Takes a bit of foresight, but it works well, I don't recall seeing anything worth clipping at the top when I did it 5/6 years ago.
Jon

In reply to jshields: difficult to believe people don't know this and climb such pinnacles where they don't have beta. You don't always need to keep a rope free as you can pull one through and sometimes the end of a single rope will reach (add slings if needed).

In reply to Offwidth: Hi Steve, I am pretty sure I just pulled it through and dropped it down to Ed to do the honours with the tree - most interesting part of the route!
I suppose people are getting a little too used to nice bolted lower offs.
Jon