In reply to cheek to the rock:
> I will look at it thanks,the reason i choose crooked crack is becasue i think the crack is the right size for the nuts and clogs i have.I was going to put one where the guy in the pic is or if i can a little higher,if its not in the way of the hand hold.I would need one before i go for the top but im not sure how easy it will be to place as the climb is on the right side,so it will be a left hander.Im going to try the placements on top rope first.I will have a look at the vd,s too.
You really want to be getting as much gear as you can in, not cherry picking routes you think you might get two nuts into. I'm not trying to p*** on your parade, there are good reasons for saying this:
It will feel seriously run out on just two or three nuts, this is really not a sensation you want or need while getting into leading. Also you fall a *lot* further on lead than you might expect or than the usual 2x distance to runner equation suggests. With two runners, even good ones you'll be barely protected (if at all) for some of the climbing.
Runners fail. They can fail because they're too weak (old, damaged or just small), the placement can fail, the placement can be poor... We mitigate this by placing redundant runners where possible and by exercising good judgement, something that is *much* easier to do from a relaxed position with some experience under your belt. While learning you just want to be getting plenty in and be getting reliable feedback on the quality of your placements.
You mentioned earlier that you have an experienced partner who's not willing to go with you for this, was that a wind-up? Your very best course of action here is to talk them into a more sensible day out, use their knowledge and gear (plus yours if you want) to start leading on some of the protectable easier routes. I seem to remember Rappel Wall was steady and protectable with slings and nuts.
jk