UKC

Fresh from his win at the Scarpa bouldering competition last weekend, Malcolm Smith polished off another Font 8b with the third ascent of Eight Ball at Gardoms Edge this week. It's the UK's second hardest boulder problem, after the sit start version of Brad Pitt.
More details at the UKClimbing news page.

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor:

I want to know why it took him 10 visits!

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor: Why is it the UK's second hardest boulder problem are you forgetting Gaskins' efforts with Kaizen and Anaesthesia? Both 8b+. Let alone Malc's own problems with Sit down start to Pool of Bethesda (8b), Leviathan (8b+) and Lothlorien (8b).

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor: I thought Moon and Moffatt had done it and that Gaskin's did it in two days...Malcolm with the fourth ascent then?

In reply to Ian Hill: No Moffat did Full Power the original low start to Soft on the G, up which 8 Ball finishes. I am reasonably certain he hasn't done 8 Ball or it would have been in OTE the following day.

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor: Graham, oh how silly you are, all those other problems are not in the peak and therefore do not count.

In reply to Nj:

And they weren't done by Ben Moon or Jerry Moffatt, so they definitely don't count!

In reply to jon:

also, anaesthesia, lothlorien and leviathian are all traverses, so they don't count.
Lothlorien and leviathian are elminates as well, so they don't count twice.
If only I could do any of them, then I could spend ages not counting them at all.

In reply to midgets of the world unite:

Well done Malcolm!

Now, can someone tell me why this effort warrants a news item and thread (which incidentally has no extra info or direction for further comments), when John Gaskins' second ascent (and here was me thinking it was second, not third ascents, that were more newsworthy - Seb on Parthian?) didn't even get a peep from all the news boffins. And it only took him two visits for crying out loud!

You'll never get over all this "Peakie" critcism if you don't report the news how it IS, not how it "ought" to be...

In reply to What!:

Because the editor has been told the news. If the editor doesn't know, then they can't post a news item can they?

In reply to Tom:

Jesus, untwist your pants everyone....as you all know the Peak rules...

so go climb elsewhere if U don like it please....we won't mind, fucko's

Si

In reply to What!:

Is Malcolm Smith really a Peakie?

In reply to What!: Actually Mr What! I reported John's repeat in the April 2001 edition of Climber. Do you read magazines?
I agree with you about Charles Arthur's original posting/ report: just another example of poor quality information and commentary from an internet editor. These people need to get their act together. I am so tired of reading innacurate bullshit passed off as real news on the internet. The general editorial standards on climbing websites is pathetic. Charles, who told you this was the 2nd hardest problem in th UK? Somehow I don't think it was Malcolm.
Don't call it news: call it 'vague news' (a 'la Mark and Lard)
" Today a man climbed a piece of rock somewhere. A spokesman said it was the hardest piece of rock in the world."
That would be better; at least we would know where we stood then.
Cheers, Simon

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor: didnt johns ascent get discounted or something after a chat with ben moon??? if im wrong im really sorry.

Yeh John didnt realise there were any footholds and did it foot off, smoking a fag and scratching his arse!

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor:

JOn welford has repeated paul higginsons problem at ramshaw on the lower tier. TIT GRIP uses the two poor holds under the roof (below colly wobble). Jonny has said 7c/7c+. Strong boys?

In reply to John Cox:

OK, lets not argue about whether Malcolm Smith is a "Peakie" or not, seeing as how the term is undefined (ha, sounds like something you'd write eh John . Suffice to say he currently spends most of his (British based) time in Sheffield, climbs on Peak crags, trains at the Foundry and the School, and drinks in the same pubs as people who are meant to know about this stuff for magazines.

My point is, this is probably the reason why his ascent gets publicity and John's second ascent (which incidentally Ps was of 8-ball, although John also made the second ascent of Full Power, Jerry Moffatt's sitting start to the arete, whereas 8-ball starts on a jug a few moves right) got fuck all (John lives in the arsehole of nowhere). Now I'm not going to go into the OTE can of worms (John's repeat got a passing mention, and his new 8b+ got one sentence near some birds headpoint of a fucking E6!), but you have to admit that Mr Panton is right when he say that the standard of news on this site and other sites can be poor with regards to accuracy.

Can I just make a quick mention of Mr Panton. Yes Simon, I do read magazines, and yes, I did know that you reported John's ascent soon after it was done. I put it to you that this is because you are a very dedicated and accomplished investigative reporter who actually gives a shit about bouldering and cares about the accuracy of what you whack down, and that I was referring to this site in particular about the non-mention of the second ascent. Keep up the good work - hoorah!

P.S. Why doesn't OTE have a bouldering column, its a smashing idea?

In reply to What!: How much do I owe you? Was it just £20 this time?
Thank you for the compliments. I do try my best, and it's nice to know that people are actually bothering to plow through my monthly bulletins (I know it ain't easy).
I don't know why OTE doesn't have a dedicated bouldering column? Perhaps it's because it would then be forced to break that Sheffieldcentric perspective and wake up to the fact that in the rest of the UK (and particularly in the bouldering scene) there is some mad shit going down (man!). The Sheffield scene is important- indeed, it used to lead the way - but the fact of the matter is: there are better crags (certainly if you have a preference for either bouldering, sport climbing or adventurous/ non head pointed trad routes) and better climbers elsewhere.
Cheers, Simon.

In reply to Simon Panton:

'Allo Meester Pantene. Ich vas joost vonderving eef ya haas mein boody Greg's eenformation vees regard to zat klettern rock Voodvell. Der ist von zooper kletterns zar, alles kla?

(Hello Mr Panton. I was just wondering whether you have my mate Greg's infomation with regard to the new bits of Woodwell. There are some super problems there, alles kla????)

In reply to Neil: Don't worry kidda, it's in the bag. Talk to John, he's been busy again (he says, cryptically?).
Cheers, Simon.