UKC

I'm planning a trip back home for Easter and I'm looking for some recommendations on classic climb crags (VS+) that would make a suitable excursion. Somewhere that dries out well but has some views and interesting (but not too technical) moves. Any suggestions?

In reply to Matt Evans SE:

Traditional would be Pembroke at Easter

In reply to Matt Evans SE:

Pembroke or West Penwith are the most common spots

In reply to Matt Evans SE:

UK is quite a big place which parts are you interested in?

In reply to Matt Evans SE:

Cornwall. Spend a day or 2 in North Cornwall or Devon climbing some of our amazing slabby Culm, then carry on down to West Penwith to climb on the amazing multipitch granite crags! Although if your in the North then that might be a bit of a trek and N.Wales or something might be closer.

In reply to Matt Evans SE:

As others have mentioned, Pembroke is usually a very popular destination at Easter, and there is always great vibe at the crags and in the pub at Bosherston afterwards (whereas most of the time they are quite quiet).

You'll probably want to avoid both St. Govans and Saddle Head mind you, because of the crowds (although, frankly, you're better off avoiding saddle head anyway).

In reply to Matt Evans SE:

Following up after having looked at your logbook ticks, may I suggest Gower?

You get all the fun of Pembroke, such as seaside, limestone, and the permanent welsh sunshine(!), but in a much friendlier package, which sees you climbing straight off a beautiful sandy beach for much of the time (q.v. Three Cliffs, Tor Bay. Fall Bay).

Compare this to (south) Pembroke where unless you regard HVS as a warm-up then you're restricted to toilets like Saddle Head and Crystal Slabs, where the routes and ambience are generally a fraction of the quality you have in Gower (Blue Sky being the honorable exception).

In reply to Alun:

Controversial!

(But possibly a good point...)

In reply to Matt Evans SE:

Easter at Castlemartin can be horribly crowded; I've walked from St Govans to Green Bridge and that found every route I wanted to do was taken.

In north Pembroke, only Barcud and Craig Coetan suffer this way. The southern bays have lots ofisolated little spots and north of st Davids is generally deserted.

Gower can be quiet, as can the Culm. West Penwith has so much to go at in a tiny area that you are spoilt for choice. Tremadoc and Gogarth are almost as likely to have good weather as any of the above.

In reply to Matt Evans SE:

When I lived in London Cornwall was the traditional choice for Easter, Bosigran usually. very often good weather and excellent rock.