UKC

I got it on the grapevine (twitter) that Ondra's done Master's Edge. So yes, he can climb better than you on grit.

In reply to Jackwd:

Did it really quickly and smoothly, then round to Burb S where Balance It Is was sent with equal ease. A quick solo of the Knock and then Messiah was ticked.

Not a bad afternoon's cragging

J

In reply to Jackwd:

God, he's right up there with the likes of Kevin Titherage

In reply to Jackwd:

Is it true he didn't get Banana Finger?

In reply to Jackwd:

Not to take away from his achievements, the pseudo god that he is! But of course he would be able to climb masters edge...its only about a 7c sport route (don't quote me on that, I honestly have no idea...way beyond me) without bolts, so for someone who can onsight 9a that is basically a warm up. some of the holdless natural grit horror shows would be a better test of his mettle!

In reply to Webster:
"some of the holdless natural grit horror shows would be a better test of his mettle!"
You mean like Balance It Is?

In reply to mark20:

yeh maybe, I'm not familiar with the other routes listed. tbh I didn't really have a point...im sure he showed us all up!

In reply to Jackwd:

get him on wizard ridge

In reply to Jayboy:

Ray's Roof would be fun to watch.

In reply to Jackwd:

Who cares what he can do on grit, what can he do with axes in his hands?





More than me I suspect but that's neither here nor there.

In reply to Jackwd:

I think the myth of foreign superstars finding grit really hard is well and truly busted.

In reply to Jackwd:

Was there ever a myth that foreigners found grit hard?

Even if this myth truly did exist, would it have been busted by someone onsighting something many grades below his onsighting ability? Ondra has onsighted 8c or was it 8c+ I'm sure he'll find any grit routes below an 8 fairly easy. That's probably nothing to do with grit being particularly soft though?

In reply to FreshSlate:

Wasnt saying that grit was soft but that I remember a lot of people saying something along the lines of 'these foreign sport climbers would struggle on the grit' and they don't.

In reply to Red Rover:


I believe that most of them were joking, there's a lot of foreign people who climb sport in the world. That would be a massive generalisation had anyone actually meant that.

The 'what has X done on grit?' is usually said in jest, about people who don't climb or climb stupidly hard stuff in a different style, as if some great boulderer would crack under the pressure of climbing a stanage Severe or something :P.

In reply to Jackwd:

That's kind of my point I was half in jest as well.

In reply to Red Rover:

God I'm so bad with reading these things correctly. My apologies!

In reply to FreshSlate:

No worries its the drawback of forums, just plain text no tone of voice or anything.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:


That was my first thought...

Not a bad day out for a relative trad newbie in bad weather, though! Would be interested to hear what he thought of the whole experience...

In reply to Jackwd:

I don't know that climbing the testpieces of 25 years ago actually counts as the foreigners kicking our arses on grit. Today's grit stars climb ME in crocodile and banana costumes.

Still, good for him, of course, and glad he had a good time.

jcm

In reply to Webster:

>.its only about a 7c sport route (don't quote me on that, I honestly have no idea...

Noooooo, I can see that!

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

No pleasing some people!

In reply to Jackwd:

Few pictures of Ondra climbing these routes on Neil Greshams facebook.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I think the fact that he onsighted the lot is not to be forgotten, considering the hardest trad onsight that I've heard of was Dave Birkett on a Caff e8 (I think), not exactly a stranger to hard trad and only one grade above what Ondra has rocked up and done a couple of times in a day.

Stunning climbing!

In reply to Jackwd:

I think the most impressive thing having talked to neil today is that he's never really placed gear before and placed it all on lead. Absolute confidence in is ability to climb what for most would be a life's work

In reply to Blackmud:

It's Adam Ondra though!

In reply to Jackwd:

He's Czech, right? Never mind grit, what about their crazy gearless sandstone pillars? Arguably an even more formidable climbing heritage

In reply to Jackwd:

big deal whats he done in wilton 1 -

In reply to FreshSlate:
he onsighted like 30 8c+

In reply to nufkin:

touché!

In reply to Jackwd:

Did he on-sight Master's Edge? Neil's post could be interpreted in different ways.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Yes. And apparently Hubble and mutation ticked too on the same day.

In reply to andi turner:


He did Hubble crux 3 times but didn't do the whole route as it was wet.This is after arriving in the Peak at 2am and getting up at 6am to try it before sponsorship commitments!

In reply to yesbutnobutyesbut:

Excellent. Is he still in Peak or heading back home?

In reply to Owen W-G:

He was flying out on Sunday morning so something of a "flying" visit.

Considering he was in the country for less than 48hrs it was quite a packed trip

J