UKC

I have a pretty basic rack and need to start adding to it, specifically for an upcoming trip to Morocco.

I currently have a set of DMM wallnuts (1-11), four DMM hexes and a selection of quickdraws, slings and carabiners. On a budget, so can't add to much. Was thinking about some DMM dragon cams (possibly three, although unsure on sizes), possibly a set of rocks (however climbing partner does have another set of wallnuts) and a couple of extenders.

What size cams would be best? And what length slings are best for extenders? Any other gear that would be good for Morocco? Thanks =)

In reply to Fantastical:

Not sure on Mococcan climbing but i'd likely look at 4CU cams rather than dragons if money is a concern.

In reply to aldo56:

Been having a look at other people's cams when I can and rather like the dragons. I do have some savings I can raid for gear and would rather get stuff I'm going to be happy with for a good few years.

In reply to Fantastical:

Dragon cams are very nice, not sure what size you're going to need, I would go for sizes; 3,4,5.
V12 and joe brown are doing good offers at the moment.

http://www.v12outdoor.com/product.php/4108/dmm-dragon-cams-set-any-3-size-0...

http://www.joe-brown.com/1227/products/dmm-dragon-cams.aspx

In reply to Fantastical:

I'd get some cams if I were you, would recommend purple, green, red and yellow camalot (or whatever the dragon equivalent of). I'd maybe actually look at the new totem cams as they get rave reviews. Maybe turn some of your quick draws into sling draws (60cm sling rather than a normal dogbone tape) if you haven't already.

In reply to Fantastical:

In answer to some specific questions:

If you're after dragons, my rack contains 2, 3, 4 (green, red, gold - similar sizes to equivalent coloured camalots, and to the hexes you already have) and I think it's a pretty good "get out of trouble" selection. Obviously if it's a cam-hungry route, generic advice like that isn't going to apply.

I wish my rack had more slingdraws (60cm slings, tripled) instead of quickdraws. IMHO, about the same weight, but more useful.

In reply to Fantastical:

DMM offset nuts for flared cracks are great where nothing else will do, & are my favourite new addition to a rack. I have also been loving my Wild Country Superlight tiny rocks. Big fan of Camalots & Dragons too (the extending sling on Dragons is a missed bonus by BD on Camalots). Get some 60cm slings & replace the connector on some of your regular 'draws- trebled it is short, doubled it is long, single it is a looong extender. Have fun in the desert. Nik

In reply to Fantastical:

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like getting a few extenders and the mid-size dragons from V12 might be the best bet.

Not been a fan of the offsets when I've used them in the past (which is pretty much only once or twice I think!). Couldn't seem to place them properly, but then also couldn't get them out again.

Wild Country rocks are on my list of things to buy (although not a priority). Will have a look at the superlight minis as well.

Thanks =)

In reply to Fantastical:

The superlights are a good addition but if you're climbing VS/HVS up you might benefit more from some real micro wires such as BD swedges or whatever they're called nowadays. I know which I use the most.

In reply to Skyfall:

I was looking at the DMM imps or brass offsets. Think I borrowed some DMM imps recently which seemed pretty nice.

In reply to Fantastical:

I have the imps too... Still prefer the BD swedges.

In reply to Fantastical:

I've given the smaller 4cu a beating they're great. frankly the dragons are fashionable this doesn't mean the world 4cus are obsolete! one above old 1.5 I would buy double axles.

Red. 0.5 4cu
white 1.5
and yellow camalot 2 or dragon equivalent. but check with mate in case he already has some

In reply to Fantastical:

If you're looking for a set of nuts (/rocks/whatever) then Metolious Curved Nuts are my favourite for Moroccan quartzite (having ditched DMM wallnuts and Wild Country rocks in favour of them). Only problem is they're tricky to get hold of.

Obviously any kind of cams are going to blow your budget, but I'd recommend as many as you can afford for Morocco. There's quite a few wide cracks for which bigger cams come in handy, and a good range around 'thin-hand' to 'hand' sort of size is useful (although it's not actually crack climbing out there).

Take plenty of slings - there are loads of blocks / spikes / bollards / flakes etc... you may well end up using a couple of 120cm slings at each belay, plus a few as runners in between. Also, you can't buy anything once you're there, so no way of replacing them if you ab off a route...

Making extenders out of skinny 60cm slings is another option to think about. A lot of the pitches over there are between 30 and 60m, and rope drag can be an issue if you don't extend things properly. They also serve as back up tat, threads, or can be placed over spikes.

In reply to Steve Broadbent:

I agree with what Steve says about gear in Morroco but would advise you to take some tape/rope slings to leave on impromptu ab points. Something fairly robust like 8mm rope as the rock is very sharp.

Climbing in the Tafroute area is a bit like the Lakes. Long routes often with scramble decents so you need to carry a light sac with shoes, water and cloathing.

DMM cams are great, but 4CU vs Dragon cam is a personal choice