UKC

A strong international team makes a first ascent on the North Face and a huge serac collapse affects the normal route on the south side.

"Our team composed by Julien Désécures, Seb Bohin, Korra Pesce, Jon Griffith and Bertrand Delapierre made a repetition of this route not following the original route but ephemeral ice streaks close to the first ascentionists line- a radically different manner to climb this route and reminiscent of a new way to follow some old lines, a fashion introduced by Brits in the seventies..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69203

In reply to UKC News:

I really enjoyed that, but some of it read like it was lifted directly from Google translate!

In reply to UKC News:

To get off the GJ, always seemed easiest to traverse the crest to the Whymper summit, down the south ridge, then across to the top of the Reposoir.

Seen steps going the normal route but always ignored them in favour of the above variant.

Presumably this is not affected by the ban. I think this is the same serac that caused a ban a few years ago.

In reply to UKC News:

What's Jon done to his eye!?

In reply to planetmarshall:

got in a fight with a sherpa...

In reply to UKC News:

any more news?