UKC

The Dawn Wall of bouldering account V16

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 Michael Ryan 29 Jan 2015
The Dawn Wall of bouldering. 'Linking v13 to v14 to v10 with scare factor involved is not easy.

Daniel Woods standing on the shoulders of Dale Bard who started the development of this overhanging face.

First ascensionist account: http://neverstopexploring.com/2015/01/28/daniel-woods-sends-process/

M
 MonkeyPuzzle 29 Jan 2015
In reply to Michael Ryan:

I had images of portaledges.
OP Michael Ryan 29 Jan 2015
In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

> I had images of portaledges.

Juts loadsa pads, that thing is high. Great to see it done.
 kwoods 29 Jan 2015
In reply to Michael Ryan:

Great bit of writing. Stunning.
In reply to Michael Ryan:

What IS V16 anyway in some language the rest of the world understands?

Still, nice account. Thanks for posting.

jcm
 Alun 29 Jan 2015
In reply to kwoods:

> Great bit of writing

I liked this bit in particular:

Non-judging, patience, beginners mind, trust, non-striving, acceptance, and letting go all appeared while projecting this line. I became present with these attitudes and took on the challenge and became a better person because of it.
Removed User 29 Jan 2015
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

English 7a surely?
 Offwidth 29 Jan 2015
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

The rest of the world understands perfectly well but in the most common alternative grade areas using font grades many have sadly taken the attitude of many of the nationality behind that grade, and pretend not to.
OP Michael Ryan 29 Jan 2015
 Bulls Crack 29 Jan 2015
In reply to Alun:

A contemporary version of the climbing is good for the character myth?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Two full grades harder than Voyager with the sit start at Burbage North. Closest is probably one of the Gaskins Boulder problems Il Pirata at Trowbarrow or Walk Away (sit start), both V15 or Font 8c in old money. Hard, the Gaskins routes are hard English 7b at least, is I guess V16 is bordering on English 7c.

> What IS V16 anyway in some language the rest of the world understands?

> Still, nice account. Thanks for posting.

> jcm
Post edited at 18:26
 Offwidth 29 Jan 2015
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Not with the UK tendancy for ultra-wide tech grades its's not.
 robin mueller 30 Jan 2015
In reply to Michael Ryan:

> One would guess not having climbed one yet, that it is like doing a 9a+ or harder sport route.

Probably much harder!

Otherwise Ondra would be climbing V18's...

 JimboWizbo 30 Jan 2015
In reply to Michael Ryan:

Stick some bolts in it, repeat the ascent. Worlds first 5.15d in the bag.

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