UKC

STOVES

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Removed User 08 Oct 2015
recommend best stove for 6ooom please.
 HeMa 08 Oct 2015
In reply to edunn:


Nope.... 6000m generally means expeditions... and that means MSR XKG or Primus Omnifuel or Optimus Polaris (or Nova/2)).
 Trangia 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:

MSR are great. In my experience the secret is obtaining good quality fuel in 3rd World countries. Because of airline restrictions it isn't always possible to take fuel with you and you have to source it locally in the host country.

Tip. Be prepared to have to strip down and clean your stove if it gets clogged by carbon from contaminated fuel . This can be a messy, horrible job at altitude and it's worth carrying some cleaning cloths, an old toothbrush or two and most importantly of all a number of surgical gloves to avoid your hands getting filthy where it's difficult if not impossible to wash them.
Removed User 08 Oct 2015
In reply to HeMa:

Thanks am going to peak lenin next year and high camp is at about 6000m so need a reliable stove gas options?
Removed User 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Trangia:

Thanks good advice have had experience of msr type burners clogging up what are the limitations of gas,?
 Trangia 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:

Propane burns better than butane in the cold. The problem you may meet is buying it locally.

Another tip for boosting a flagging gas stove in low temperatures, is to balance the gas canister on top of your pan, so that rising heat warms the liquid gas in it and increases efficiency. I do this with my trangia (you obviously need a hose long enough to do this).

It works very well, but I suspect it's potentially dangerous, so I tend to do it outside of the tent though!
 L.A. 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User: Gas is often available at Lenin BC @ $9 a cartridge No idea of the quality. Its probably Russian so could be either an amazing ex secret military concoction or just water -Test ALL cartridges before you leave BC
Dont forget a small piece of Karrimat foam to insulate the cartridge from the snow A small square of Plywood is a better idea to stop liquid fuel stoves from melting into the snow.
Personally Id take an XGK11 since I know fuel for that is available in both Osh + BC

Removed User 08 Oct 2015
In reply to L.A.:

Great thanks rather use gas than liquid fuel are the cartridge compatible with jet boil? Any information welcome cheers
 L.A. 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User: These guys say they have cartridges for Kovea stoves for sale at Lenin BC. Maybe send them an email nearer the time to ensure that they have some appropriate cartridges put aside for you ? Or you could ask Jagged Globe or Adventure Peaks if they know of the availability of cartridges at BC

http://www.ak-sai.com/en/mountaineering/Lenin-peak
 alasdair19 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:

msr reactor impressed me in the alps anyone use one up high? I've used an old hanging stove and dragonflies highish.

are u camping at or climbing to 6000m ?
 Wild Isle 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:
MSR are the Volvo of stoves, all others pale in one way or another. Which leaves choosing the right model. For efficiency, lightweight trips with no actual cooking involved (think winter/high altitude water melting, boil-in-bag meals etc..) the MSR Reactor is unbeatable. These stoves are self-contained units including pot and are very fuel and weight efficient, but they're not field maintainable.

For high output, versatility and actual cooking the MSR XKG is the long reigning champ. The WhisperLite models are also right up there. The biggest advantage of the white gas (naphtha) burning stoves is their field maintainability - at 6000m you should bring a maintenance kit (MSR have a couple of options) and have practiced trouble-shooting & fixing the typical issues: clearing a clogged jet, lubing or replacing a pump cup, identifying potential leak points and replacement washers and where they go. Once you know these basics, keeping them running well becomes second nature. Strip one down a couple of times and you'll get the hang of it quickly.

I'll second the caution about contaminated liquid fuel, always run a stove check on a new fuel supply when travelling and if you experience poor performance double-check the fuel bottle and look for a distinct water bubble in the bottom of the bottle. Decant and ideally filter suspect fuel. In winter and high altitude I always run the stove before departure.
Post edited at 16:50
Removed User 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Wild Isle:

Great thanks for all the help guys will do more research cheers
 chris687 08 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:

MSR Reactor worked well for me at just over 6000m, it's gas, simple to maintain and really efficient.
In reply to Removed User: FWIW we had original MSR XGK stoves running on local petrol (filtered by us) on our trip to the Pamirs in 1998 and a couple of the team used them fine above 6000m on their ascent on Lenin from the East.
 RR 09 Oct 2015
In reply to chris687:

Reactor is not field reparable ... (It is my second one). For snow melting very fast, good for summit push, ideal. A XGK or a Whisperlite universal (White gas and canisters) is a good backup.
 d_b 09 Oct 2015
In reply to Wild Isle:
My experience of the MSR Dragonfly was that they were unreliable crap with pumps that fall apart at the drop of a hat. I accidentally bought one once. Wouldn't take another one high if you paid me.

More a Trabant than a Volvo.
Post edited at 20:40
 radson 10 Oct 2015
In reply to davidbeynon:

Yeah another vote for Reactors. I have used them between 4,000m - 7,000 m and love them for boiling water fast. Would never use XGK or similar at high camps..too convoluted.
 Damo 10 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:

In 2012 Ak-Sai sold gas canisters at Lenin C1 (ABC) for around EU7. Quality was fine. We used it all the time on the mountain with an MSR Reactor.

Nowadays canisters are available in many places they weren't 20 years ago. But the best liquid fuel, 'white gas', is not. You can use kerosene or petrol, but I've found these unreliable. I've used liquid fuel stoves a lot but now usually find myself using canisters on my Primus Multifuel rather than liquid fuel.
 Damo 10 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:

In 2012 Ak-Sai sold gas canisters at Lenin C1 (ABC) for around EU7. Quality was fine. We used it all the time on the mountain with an MSR Reactor.

Nowadays canisters are available in many places they weren't 20 years ago. But the best liquid fuel, 'white gas', is not. You can use kerosene or petrol, but I've found these unreliable.

I've used liquid fuel stoves a lot but now usually find myself using canisters on my Primus Multifuel rather than liquid fuel, or just take my Jetboil. My Jetboil is an early model and the piezo ignition doesn't work above 4000m, but we had a brand new one in Ladakh this year and it worked fine at 5500m.
In reply to Removed User:

If you do go with canisters get a stove with a preheating tube so you can invert the canister.
Bserk 12 Oct 2015
In reply to Removed User:

I go with a Optimus Polaris...burns almost anything If you do not want to rely on gas cartridges of questionable quality just burn liquid fuel you can buy cheap anywhere and transport easily.

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