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Stat’s light this week – off out climbing whilst the weather holds…
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Biscuit; everyone gets spanked by the BM grading system! Good you’re getting out consistently though
The Ex-Engineer; good day trad on the Cromlech. If it’s any consolation, I thought Pincushion was harder than Silly Arete. Did you get out again this weekend?
AJM; CIDERRRRRR! Smashed out some PBs on the (foot-on) campus board? Don’t forget to taper!
Mattrm; lots of DIY & dish-tucks. Any variety this week?
Dandan82; Sort out the dull-ache before the steroid wears off and you find out you’ve really buggered it in the meantime….
Nick Russell; great weekend of early season peak grit – say hi to film director Dave from me – remind him that I was the Ally doing a PhD in the laser chemistry group many moons ago.
H “sensible” s; yet more 7b’s fall – that’s a broad pyramid you’ve built there – time to stick a flag pole on the summit?
Ian Bell; solid week of bouldering and sport. Did you fit in the single planned session this week?
Ally Smith; work your way up gently to the big numbers; don’t run before you can walk. Stay off the cakes and don’t forget to bolt some newbies!
Flopsicle; good you’ve set yourself a goal – now do the hard work and get it done!
Exile; Quick 7a tick – have you gone back to your trad goals again this week?
Humperdink; welcome back. Given the volume in the last 3 weeks – I hate to think what “getting your head down” looks like!?!
Joughton; a wall pass will always be a good investment – good for your climbing, even if not the best for your wallet. TTT is a bit of a swine, no?
Joyce; great to tick the STG on Peckitt’s Traverse before the off-season. Is The Loop still in there as a M or LTG?
Just Tintin; have fun in Morocco – any chance to do the E4 project before departure?
Tyler; great to benchmark yourself as fitter than ever – let’s hope it’s still all there after Nepal?
Richard Popp; good flexibility pays dividends in fitting in training around work and life. I’ve failed miserably at it this week and will pay heed to your example.
Planetmarshall; sounds like a good trip to Kaly – but there’s more to drink beer than Mythos! Try some Kaly steep next time – you won’t be disappointed!
0.5viking; unconventional place for DOMS after climbing, but good to keep some variety in the training week
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Biscuit; everyone gets spanked by the BM grading system! Good you’re getting out consistently though
The Ex-Engineer; good day trad on the Cromlech. If it’s any consolation, I thought Pincushion was harder than Silly Arete. Did you get out again this weekend?
AJM; CIDERRRRRR! Smashed out some PBs on the (foot-on) campus board? Don’t forget to taper!
Mattrm; lots of DIY & dish-tucks. Any variety this week?
Dandan82; Sort out the dull-ache before the steroid wears off and you find out you’ve really buggered it in the meantime….
Nick Russell; great weekend of early season peak grit – say hi to film director Dave from me – remind him that I was the Ally doing a PhD in the laser chemistry group many moons ago.
H “sensible” s; yet more 7b’s fall – that’s a broad pyramid you’ve built there – time to stick a flag pole on the summit?
Ian Bell; solid week of bouldering and sport. Did you fit in the single planned session this week?
Ally Smith; work your way up gently to the big numbers; don’t run before you can walk. Stay off the cakes and don’t forget to bolt some newbies!
Flopsicle; good you’ve set yourself a goal – now do the hard work and get it done!
Exile; Quick 7a tick – have you gone back to your trad goals again this week?
Humperdink; welcome back. Given the volume in the last 3 weeks – I hate to think what “getting your head down” looks like!?!
Joughton; a wall pass will always be a good investment – good for your climbing, even if not the best for your wallet. TTT is a bit of a swine, no?
Joyce; great to tick the STG on Peckitt’s Traverse before the off-season. Is The Loop still in there as a M or LTG?
Just Tintin; have fun in Morocco – any chance to do the E4 project before departure?
Tyler; great to benchmark yourself as fitter than ever – let’s hope it’s still all there after Nepal?
Richard Popp; good flexibility pays dividends in fitting in training around work and life. I’ve failed miserably at it this week and will pay heed to your example.
Planetmarshall; sounds like a good trip to Kaly – but there’s more to drink beer than Mythos! Try some Kaly steep next time – you won’t be disappointed!
0.5viking; unconventional place for DOMS after climbing, but good to keep some variety in the training week
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hehe, the steroid fix and the dull ache are separate issues i'm sure. I can't say when the steroids might 'wear off' it could well have happened already but i'm really happy with how the whole steroid affected area feels now, hopefully that issue is in my past for good.
Boring week trying to heal this dull ache, topped off with a pleasing weekend
M: indoor routes; dull ache becoming less dull ache, tried to ease it out with volume of easy climbs but it wasn't having any of it so I sacked it off.
T: rest
W: rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Winspit; went down for Mrs Dandan to have another go at her 7a project, went super gentle on the elbow, the hardest thing I did was to put the draws in the 7a which is pretty easy, no hard cruxes. Did tick off a load of extra routes, i've nearly got the whole wall now! Elbow felt great all day, still feels good now, result! Also, Mrs Dandan cleaned the whole route and then forgot how to climb at the easy top section and peeled off in the worst display of footwork i've ever seen from her! Next time for sure!
It's our 1 year anniversary so posh hotel, champagne, wine and good food!
S: rest
Yes, so boring week but with a turn for the better at the end, hoping the dull ache is on the way out. I'll climb again Tuesday and then I have a session with my coach on Thursday, fingers crossed i'm in good working order.
> Dandan82; Sort out the dull-ache before the steroid wears off and you find out you£ve really buggered it in the meantime£.
Hehe, the steroid fix and the dull ache are separate issues i'm sure. I can't say when the steroids might 'wear off' it could well have happened already but i'm really happy with how the whole steroid affected area feels now, hopefully that issue is in my past for good.
Boring week trying to heal this dull ache, topped off with a pleasing weekend
M: indoor routes; dull ache becoming less dull ache, tried to ease it out with volume of easy climbs but it wasn't having any of it so I sacked it off.
T: rest
W: rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Winspit; went down for Mrs Dandan to have another go at her 7a project, went super gentle on the elbow, the hardest thing I did was to put the draws in the 7a which is pretty easy, no hard cruxes. Did tick off a load of extra routes, i've nearly got the whole wall now! Elbow felt great all day, still feels good now, result! Also, Mrs Dandan cleaned the whole route and then forgot how to climb at the easy top section and peeled off in the worst display of footwork i've ever seen from her! Next time for sure!
It's our 1 year anniversary so posh hotel, champagne, wine and good food!
S: rest
Yes, so boring week but with a turn for the better at the end, hoping the dull ache is on the way out. I'll climb again Tuesday and then I have a session with my coach on Thursday, fingers crossed i'm in good working order.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for the stats Ally. I wondered how you know Dave, makes sense if you were in chemistry! I'll mention you when I next see him. I really enjoyed the grit last weekend, conditions were surprisingly good.
M - Rest.
T - TCA. Had a few more goes on black mothership 6C. Some progress, but not there yet. Met Joyce, who somewhat rescued me from an otherwise low-psyche session.
W - 8.2km run. Still feeling tired, motivation low.
T - 5.5km run. TCA with Joyce. Had a good session working round the yellows, plus one of the reds.
F - Rest.
S - Back to the grit. I was supposed to be meeting a group from Bristol uni at Stanage, but failed to find them until mid-afternoon. Spent the day soloing instead: 23 routes including the Unconquerables and Goliath's Groove. A bit greasy in the morning but improved through the day.
S - 6km run around Higgar Tor and along Burbage. Went to Froggatt to find the group, but everything was wet from rain Saturday night. Sacked it off and drove back to Bristol.
I think my decision to leave the Peak early was one of my less enlightened attempts at weather forecasting. No sooner had I got in the car than the sun came out, and stayed out for the whole drive home. It could have been a great afternoon there, though the wind was coming over the edge again so it was very still at the base of the crag.
> Nick Russell; great weekend of early season peak grit - say hi to film director Dave from me - remind him that I was the Ally doing a PhD in the laser chemistry group many moons ago.
Thanks for the stats Ally. I wondered how you know Dave, makes sense if you were in chemistry! I'll mention you when I next see him. I really enjoyed the grit last weekend, conditions were surprisingly good.
M - Rest.
T - TCA. Had a few more goes on black mothership 6C. Some progress, but not there yet. Met Joyce, who somewhat rescued me from an otherwise low-psyche session.
W - 8.2km run. Still feeling tired, motivation low.
T - 5.5km run. TCA with Joyce. Had a good session working round the yellows, plus one of the reds.
F - Rest.
S - Back to the grit. I was supposed to be meeting a group from Bristol uni at Stanage, but failed to find them until mid-afternoon. Spent the day soloing instead: 23 routes including the Unconquerables and Goliath's Groove. A bit greasy in the morning but improved through the day.
S - 6km run around Higgar Tor and along Burbage. Went to Froggatt to find the group, but everything was wet from rain Saturday night. Sacked it off and drove back to Bristol.
I think my decision to leave the Peak early was one of my less enlightened attempts at weather forecasting. No sooner had I got in the car than the sun came out, and stayed out for the whole drive home. It could have been a great afternoon there, though the wind was coming over the edge again so it was very still at the base of the crag.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Nooooo! Lovely conditions this afternoon - cool, sunny and *almost* sticky...
Drop me a line if you get stuck partner-less again on the grit as apart from Morocco for next couple of weekends, we will be there as much as we can for the season.
Nooooo! Lovely conditions this afternoon - cool, sunny and *almost* sticky...
Drop me a line if you get stuck partner-less again on the grit as apart from Morocco for next couple of weekends, we will be there as much as we can for the season.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally. Hope the weather held.
Not a bad week. Got back to Chapel Head and the hardest 7a in the world felt like a different route. It was a definite sign that i wasn't with it last week. Gave it a top rope, 1st redpoint fell off at crux ( hard crux). 2nd redpoint had a brain fart and gave up before the crux. 3rd redpoint got it. Hadn't looked at the top in enough detail so the last 12m or so was a bit painful to watch but got it done. It was good to get a bit of a set back and come through it.
Boulder session at work got buggered up as i had to start work early. Felt very tired/stiff after as i'd just started working at my max and suddenly stopped.
Did some good physio/s&c stuff this week. Noticing the difference between standing up and being active at work all day and sitting at a desk staring at a book/laptop.
No beastmaker as i've just felt very tired the back end of the week and had a busy weekend with the kids.
So not a great week and no outdoors this week coming as college deadlines are looming. BUT i know it's time to step it up now. Numerous 7a's and 7a+'s in a session shows it's time to crank it up a bit and see where i'm at. It's going to be weather dependent but i need to pick a 7b+(ish) to get on and get bashed out.
I've also decided i'm fat, officially. So i'm back on My Fitness Pal as of tomorrow. Six weeks before holiday so i want to lose 3 or 4 lbs of flab before then.
This week:
2 wall sessions - Tues and Thurs. One bouldering the other starting to benchmark with SCC stuff
Keep up physio for sore hips, right ankle, left foot, left elbow, right AC joint and try not to add anymore to the list.
1 beastmaker. 8 sets last time. Going to aim for 8 'proper' sets this time using mid 2 etc.
Gym session: start looking at imbalances. Found this site this week: www.stevemaischtraining.com
Worth a look for a lot of training/tactics stuff.
Feeling psyched at the moment!
Cheers Ally. Hope the weather held.
Not a bad week. Got back to Chapel Head and the hardest 7a in the world felt like a different route. It was a definite sign that i wasn't with it last week. Gave it a top rope, 1st redpoint fell off at crux ( hard crux). 2nd redpoint had a brain fart and gave up before the crux. 3rd redpoint got it. Hadn't looked at the top in enough detail so the last 12m or so was a bit painful to watch but got it done. It was good to get a bit of a set back and come through it.
Boulder session at work got buggered up as i had to start work early. Felt very tired/stiff after as i'd just started working at my max and suddenly stopped.
Did some good physio/s&c stuff this week. Noticing the difference between standing up and being active at work all day and sitting at a desk staring at a book/laptop.
No beastmaker as i've just felt very tired the back end of the week and had a busy weekend with the kids.
So not a great week and no outdoors this week coming as college deadlines are looming. BUT i know it's time to step it up now. Numerous 7a's and 7a+'s in a session shows it's time to crank it up a bit and see where i'm at. It's going to be weather dependent but i need to pick a 7b+(ish) to get on and get bashed out.
I've also decided i'm fat, officially. So i'm back on My Fitness Pal as of tomorrow. Six weeks before holiday so i want to lose 3 or 4 lbs of flab before then.
This week:
2 wall sessions - Tues and Thurs. One bouldering the other starting to benchmark with SCC stuff
Keep up physio for sore hips, right ankle, left foot, left elbow, right AC joint and try not to add anymore to the list.
1 beastmaker. 8 sets last time. Going to aim for 8 'proper' sets this time using mid 2 etc.
Gym session: start looking at imbalances. Found this site this week: www.stevemaischtraining.com
Worth a look for a lot of training/tactics stuff.
Feeling psyched at the moment!
In reply to Just Tintin:
argh, I didn't want to hear that! Hope you had a good time... I'll let you know because I'm keen to get up there too - first 3 weekends in November still completely free in my calendar.
edit. Have a great trip in Morocco! Are you staying at the Kasbah? Or Tafraoute? Feel free to get in touch if you want any beta/advice - I was there in April so some things are still fresh in my mind.
argh, I didn't want to hear that! Hope you had a good time... I'll let you know because I'm keen to get up there too - first 3 weekends in November still completely free in my calendar.
edit. Have a great trip in Morocco! Are you staying at the Kasbah? Or Tafraoute? Feel free to get in touch if you want any beta/advice - I was there in April so some things are still fresh in my mind.
Post edited at 20:34
In reply to Ally Smith:
Do you mind if I join please? I've currently got a chipped ankle so I am not getting any climbing done, just about able to deal with stairs without my crutches now!
Monday: 1 hour at the wall doing a mixture of inclined pressups, plank, dish, leg raises, sit ups, pull ups and fingerboarding.
Tuesday: 1.2 miles on crutches
Wednesday: 45 minutes at the wall, general core training.
Thursday: 1 hour at the wall, same as before, I also added in holding static positions on the systems board as it's a little more interesting than the fingerboard.
Friday: Nothing
Saturday: Nothing
Sunday: 1.5 hours at the wall, same as thursday.
Long Term goal: Lead E4 consistently onsight.
Medium Term goal: Redpoint F7a
Short Term goal: Get my ankle sorted (broken 4 weeks ago on tuesday, estimated 3-8 week recovery time) so that I can recommence cycling to work and climbing.
Do you mind if I join please? I've currently got a chipped ankle so I am not getting any climbing done, just about able to deal with stairs without my crutches now!
Monday: 1 hour at the wall doing a mixture of inclined pressups, plank, dish, leg raises, sit ups, pull ups and fingerboarding.
Tuesday: 1.2 miles on crutches
Wednesday: 45 minutes at the wall, general core training.
Thursday: 1 hour at the wall, same as before, I also added in holding static positions on the systems board as it's a little more interesting than the fingerboard.
Friday: Nothing
Saturday: Nothing
Sunday: 1.5 hours at the wall, same as thursday.
Long Term goal: Lead E4 consistently onsight.
Medium Term goal: Redpoint F7a
Short Term goal: Get my ankle sorted (broken 4 weeks ago on tuesday, estimated 3-8 week recovery time) so that I can recommence cycling to work and climbing.
3
In reply to Ally Smith:
Been struggling to manage that really this week. Body has been feeling a bit tweaky so didn't do any foc as it feels very aggressive. Some good capacity:power attempts though.
Went to Portland Saturday, plodded up a few easy things fairly slowly and then failed to onsight a 7a+. Had another go but it was greasy and gloomy so failed to redpoint it either.
Cheddar today. Didn't fuel up enough, in hindsight. Made an utter meal of an e1, scraped my way up a 7a+ ive done about 20 times before. Having felt strong on problems compared witg 2 years back last weekend I tried right hand man again thinking I might feel good on that too. Back to earth with something of a bump. Felt desperate. I felt shit on it. Didn't do much else. Ali didn't have a good weekend either.
A bit of a cruddy weekend really, company exempted. Not the best run in to Kalymnos. Just got a session or so left early in the coming week before we fly out.
> AJM; CIDERRRRRR! Smashed out some PBs on the (foot-on) campus board? Don’t forget to taper!
Been struggling to manage that really this week. Body has been feeling a bit tweaky so didn't do any foc as it feels very aggressive. Some good capacity:power attempts though.
Went to Portland Saturday, plodded up a few easy things fairly slowly and then failed to onsight a 7a+. Had another go but it was greasy and gloomy so failed to redpoint it either.
Cheddar today. Didn't fuel up enough, in hindsight. Made an utter meal of an e1, scraped my way up a 7a+ ive done about 20 times before. Having felt strong on problems compared witg 2 years back last weekend I tried right hand man again thinking I might feel good on that too. Back to earth with something of a bump. Felt desperate. I felt shit on it. Didn't do much else. Ali didn't have a good weekend either.
A bit of a cruddy weekend really, company exempted. Not the best run in to Kalymnos. Just got a session or so left early in the coming week before we fly out.
In reply to Ally Smith: Working this weekend unfortunately but a fairly decent week in terms of base conditioning.
M - rest
T - Wall - Attempt at some AeroPower. 12x autobelay reps, 2x4x4 blocs, 2x4x2+ easy circuit boards laos.
W - Wall - Auotbelay reps and some general Bouldering.
T - Yoga - Was finally persuaded to go to some classes
Wall - Clipping practice on autobelay plus general Bouldering.
F - Yoga
S - Wall Short unstructured session after working.
S - working away overnight.
M - rest
T - Wall - Attempt at some AeroPower. 12x autobelay reps, 2x4x4 blocs, 2x4x2+ easy circuit boards laos.
W - Wall - Auotbelay reps and some general Bouldering.
T - Yoga - Was finally persuaded to go to some classes
Wall - Clipping practice on autobelay plus general Bouldering.
F - Yoga
S - Wall Short unstructured session after working.
S - working away overnight.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hi Ally, thanks for doing the stats, and to Dan as well for last week, even though I went AWOL.
Crappy couple of weeks for me, climbing wise. A week in London with my girlfriend turned into two and a half. Upshot is I now have a job starting for when I leave Cham in November! Exciting times. Literally have done nothing for the past couple of weeks which is pretty depressing! Being back in Cham and partnerless is driving me up the wall, too. Hopefully will get something sorted and manage to get out this week, though the weather looks pretty poor after tomorrow.
STG (this week): If I find a partner before the weather craps out, get 2 routes done. If I don't, get out for a run and a core session.
Hi Ally, thanks for doing the stats, and to Dan as well for last week, even though I went AWOL.
Crappy couple of weeks for me, climbing wise. A week in London with my girlfriend turned into two and a half. Upshot is I now have a job starting for when I leave Cham in November! Exciting times. Literally have done nothing for the past couple of weeks which is pretty depressing! Being back in Cham and partnerless is driving me up the wall, too. Hopefully will get something sorted and manage to get out this week, though the weather looks pretty poor after tomorrow.
STG (this week): If I find a partner before the weather craps out, get 2 routes done. If I don't, get out for a run and a core session.
In reply to Dandan:
I was going to add to my post but can't edit it now so sorry if this is harder to follow when you do the stats Ally.
Been looking into flights to Kaly next Easter and it seems that in 2016 there are no direct flights to Kos from anywhere in the country. The alternative is a stop in Athens that adds 3 hours to the travel time and weighs in at £300 each with hold luggage (essential). When you add in the ferry and 2 taxis to get to Masouri, it becomes a bit of an epic that doesn't excite me all that much.
The alternative is to go to Spain, 2 hour flight, half the price for flights, and I've been recommended an awesome looking place is Margalef run by two British climbers. If we go for that, then realistically there is no chance of returning to Kaly next year (Mrs Dandan is a teacher which limits our options), so there's not so much point in setting the Sardonique crux on my boulder wall, I'd be better of buying some pockety holds to train for Margalef.
Goals;
STG: Get back on the wagon training wise, time to improve my power endurance! *this week!*
Set the sardonique crux on my boulder wall/get some pocket holds depending on Easter destination
Sort out dull elbow ache *definitely improved*
MTG: I'd still like that 8a, this year would be nice
Beat my 2011 highest number of ticks *109/133*
LTG: 8a in a day (probably on holiday somewhere)
Push on into 8a+/b territory
I was going to add to my post but can't edit it now so sorry if this is harder to follow when you do the stats Ally.
Been looking into flights to Kaly next Easter and it seems that in 2016 there are no direct flights to Kos from anywhere in the country. The alternative is a stop in Athens that adds 3 hours to the travel time and weighs in at £300 each with hold luggage (essential). When you add in the ferry and 2 taxis to get to Masouri, it becomes a bit of an epic that doesn't excite me all that much.
The alternative is to go to Spain, 2 hour flight, half the price for flights, and I've been recommended an awesome looking place is Margalef run by two British climbers. If we go for that, then realistically there is no chance of returning to Kaly next year (Mrs Dandan is a teacher which limits our options), so there's not so much point in setting the Sardonique crux on my boulder wall, I'd be better of buying some pockety holds to train for Margalef.
Goals;
STG: Get back on the wagon training wise, time to improve my power endurance! *this week!*
Set the sardonique crux on my boulder wall/get some pocket holds depending on Easter destination
Sort out dull elbow ache *definitely improved*
MTG: I'd still like that 8a, this year would be nice
Beat my 2011 highest number of ticks *109/133*
LTG: 8a in a day (probably on holiday somewhere)
Push on into 8a+/b territory
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally - home now but will bear the recommendation in mind for next time. Seriously considering two trips next year.
Mon - Myrties Area, highly recommended for those climbing in the 6a-6b range. Highlight of the day Crystal Line (6a) (not 5c) - a very UK-trad style line. Met the equipper Claude Idoux at the top of the route - I didn't tell him that without the bolts it might have been one of the very best E1s in the World .
Tue - Last climbing day. Climbed Wild Sex (6b) at Arginonta without a warm up, basically fought my way to the top. Will leave a clean ascent for next time. Had a go at No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+), was pleased to get off the ground - but a pigeon in a crucial hold prevented further progress. First time I've got on a climb at this level and thought "you know what, I can actually climb this." Goal for next year. Finished the afternoon at Summertime Area and climbed Orea Dana (6a+).
Wed Fly home.
Thu - Rest. Had intended to go up to Scotland for the extended weekend but conditions didn't really make it worth the trip.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Drove to Cambridge to pick up Nevis the Cat from my parents.
Sun - Top day at Millstone Edge. Climbed Great North Road (HVS 5a) and Bond Street (HVS 5a), both onsight.
Kalymnos was amazing, and can't wait to go back. Considering a coaching holiday for the Spring.
Got a date for my hand operation - Thu 12th Nov. This will put me out of action for about 6-8 weeks ( though don't yet know if ice climbing/dry tooling practice will be OK as it's a bit less stressful on the hands than climbing ). So I now have about 4 weeks to achieve my trad goal for this year - which was Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b).
Cheers Ally - home now but will bear the recommendation in mind for next time. Seriously considering two trips next year.
Mon - Myrties Area, highly recommended for those climbing in the 6a-6b range. Highlight of the day Crystal Line (6a) (not 5c) - a very UK-trad style line. Met the equipper Claude Idoux at the top of the route - I didn't tell him that without the bolts it might have been one of the very best E1s in the World .
Tue - Last climbing day. Climbed Wild Sex (6b) at Arginonta without a warm up, basically fought my way to the top. Will leave a clean ascent for next time. Had a go at No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+), was pleased to get off the ground - but a pigeon in a crucial hold prevented further progress. First time I've got on a climb at this level and thought "you know what, I can actually climb this." Goal for next year. Finished the afternoon at Summertime Area and climbed Orea Dana (6a+).
Wed Fly home.
Thu - Rest. Had intended to go up to Scotland for the extended weekend but conditions didn't really make it worth the trip.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Drove to Cambridge to pick up Nevis the Cat from my parents.
Sun - Top day at Millstone Edge. Climbed Great North Road (HVS 5a) and Bond Street (HVS 5a), both onsight.
Kalymnos was amazing, and can't wait to go back. Considering a coaching holiday for the Spring.
Got a date for my hand operation - Thu 12th Nov. This will put me out of action for about 6-8 weeks ( though don't yet know if ice climbing/dry tooling practice will be OK as it's a bit less stressful on the hands than climbing ). So I now have about 4 weeks to achieve my trad goal for this year - which was Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b).
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally. Lovely to see you at the weekend (and you too, AJM, of course!). A careful week then good weekend, but no ticks.
M - cycle commute, shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute, Bloc circuits. New 5,6a,6b+ & 6c+ circuits, onsighted them all then did various repeats. 15 or so in total, but not quite as fast as I would like due to someone else there doing bulk back-to-backs.
W - cycle commute. shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. easy & very careful fingerboarding, which felt like hard work.
F - stunningly little.
S - Uphill with Ally. Had hoped to get a quick tick on Chiming for You. Hah! There is a stinky move right at the top which I fell off repeatedly. Somewhat concerned I wouldn't be able to get back to the top to retrieve the draws. Annoying. There were also hoards of venomous mosquitoes, so my left hand is now impressively swelled up.
S - Cheddar, back on Circus Circus. Had some really good goes, including a new high point. Came off when I didn't manage to stab my hand into the upper roof undercut crack accurately enough - that move is one shot deal.
On a tentative wiggle this morning, the should isn't grumbling. Will take a prudent approach this week though, rather than go back to full-on training like a bull at a gate.
Nick - I might be up for an Uphill return next wkend if you fancy - but I'd be belaying from insude a mosquito netting tent!
Thanks Ally. Lovely to see you at the weekend (and you too, AJM, of course!). A careful week then good weekend, but no ticks.
M - cycle commute, shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute, Bloc circuits. New 5,6a,6b+ & 6c+ circuits, onsighted them all then did various repeats. 15 or so in total, but not quite as fast as I would like due to someone else there doing bulk back-to-backs.
W - cycle commute. shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. easy & very careful fingerboarding, which felt like hard work.
F - stunningly little.
S - Uphill with Ally. Had hoped to get a quick tick on Chiming for You. Hah! There is a stinky move right at the top which I fell off repeatedly. Somewhat concerned I wouldn't be able to get back to the top to retrieve the draws. Annoying. There were also hoards of venomous mosquitoes, so my left hand is now impressively swelled up.
S - Cheddar, back on Circus Circus. Had some really good goes, including a new high point. Came off when I didn't manage to stab my hand into the upper roof undercut crack accurately enough - that move is one shot deal.
On a tentative wiggle this morning, the should isn't grumbling. Will take a prudent approach this week though, rather than go back to full-on training like a bull at a gate.
Nick - I might be up for an Uphill return next wkend if you fancy - but I'd be belaying from insude a mosquito netting tent!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for the stats Ally. Not exactly a high bar to pass but I managed my planned 1 session this week!
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
W – Routes at the Westway. 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b OS warm up. Then dogged 6b+, 6c, 2x6c+ & 7a. Route reading was bad, understandable as not done many indoor routes the last few months. Also feeling a bit heavy and sluggish. Started coming down with a cold the next day so maybe it was just the early start of that.
Cold now thankfully seems to have abated, also managed a nice weekend away in Lisbon with good food and wine. Would recommend it as a non climbing holiday option, heresy I know!
Should be back on it and manage 4 sessions this week, hopefully outside this weekend.
Thanks for the stats Ally. Not exactly a high bar to pass but I managed my planned 1 session this week!
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
W – Routes at the Westway. 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b OS warm up. Then dogged 6b+, 6c, 2x6c+ & 7a. Route reading was bad, understandable as not done many indoor routes the last few months. Also feeling a bit heavy and sluggish. Started coming down with a cold the next day so maybe it was just the early start of that.
Cold now thankfully seems to have abated, also managed a nice weekend away in Lisbon with good food and wine. Would recommend it as a non climbing holiday option, heresy I know!
Should be back on it and manage 4 sessions this week, hopefully outside this weekend.
In reply to Dandan:
Why fly to Kos, and not to Kalymnos direct? We did this via an overnight bivvy in Athens airport - bit shitty, but not the end of the world.
If you settle on Spain and you're talking about Mac & Holly's place in Margalef; i've only heard good things.
Why fly to Kos, and not to Kalymnos direct? We did this via an overnight bivvy in Athens airport - bit shitty, but not the end of the world.
If you settle on Spain and you're talking about Mac & Holly's place in Margalef; i've only heard good things.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Hi Dan, we have got to Kaly a couple of times by flying to Athens, then changing to a small plane and flying direct to Kaly as Ally suggests. How long it takes depends on your connection times obviously but it's fine - I actually think it is less hassle than flying to Kos and getting the ferry assuming that everything goes to plan. However Olympic Airways is a bit prone to delay/cancellation and one time we got held up by an Athens air traffic control strike, which apparently is not an unheard of occurrance. I think you are also subject to the weather - it's a very little plane, and I think flights can be grounded if there are very strong winds - though that is the same deal as with the ferry.
Good luck with keeping the elbow under control btw.
Hi Dan, we have got to Kaly a couple of times by flying to Athens, then changing to a small plane and flying direct to Kaly as Ally suggests. How long it takes depends on your connection times obviously but it's fine - I actually think it is less hassle than flying to Kos and getting the ferry assuming that everything goes to plan. However Olympic Airways is a bit prone to delay/cancellation and one time we got held up by an Athens air traffic control strike, which apparently is not an unheard of occurrance. I think you are also subject to the weather - it's a very little plane, and I think flights can be grounded if there are very strong winds - though that is the same deal as with the ferry.
Good luck with keeping the elbow under control btw.
In reply to Ally Smith:
I was a bit concerned about the direct kaly flights being cancelled or heavily delayed due to weather and the tiny plane, it would save the ferry but it's still two flights and a stopover, I wouldn't mind so much but Mrs Dandan really doesn't enjoy the travelling bit so the shorter the better.
EDIT: Pretty much exactly what Curious Yellow just said!
It's a shame because due to the school calendar, it's pretty much the only time we can go in season.
Yes it's Mac and Holly's place, looks amazing!
I was a bit concerned about the direct kaly flights being cancelled or heavily delayed due to weather and the tiny plane, it would save the ferry but it's still two flights and a stopover, I wouldn't mind so much but Mrs Dandan really doesn't enjoy the travelling bit so the shorter the better.
EDIT: Pretty much exactly what Curious Yellow just said!
It's a shame because due to the school calendar, it's pretty much the only time we can go in season.
Yes it's Mac and Holly's place, looks amazing!
Post edited at 11:01
In reply to Ally Smith:
Making progress with injured shoulder - slow progress back up the grades and gradual steepening of rock angle.
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium or Tony Slab Chamonix?
Do some progressive headpointing leading up to the Ogwen project.
Kilnsey £ go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Well Done finish, 8b (unlikely to find it dry again though?)
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
3x week finger board sessions
3x week core sessions £ more than just the 8min ab app
74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- FB Benchmarking
- Start some gradual weight loss
- Rehab
- Do some proper core training.
Last week:
M - Felt knackered from the weekend £ rehab and 15 sets of 60s on/60s off FO campus.
T - Early to London
W - More of London village. Theraband rehab on the tube £ got funny looks.
T - Home from London, then FB5. New PB at 122s for 1st set, but much steeper taper than previous efforts. Didn£t do the back-3 session as the shoulder was feeling tweaked. Good call as the DOMS the next day was special!
F - DOMS. More travel.
S - Uphill with hms. Few bolts of Chiming for you as warm-up, then flashed Living dead, f7b. Failed OS, epic dog, then eventual RP of The Jimi Hendrix Experience, f7b+/E6 6b. Collected Sloes for xmas gin
S - Cheddar with hms & AJM. E1 warm-up. 3rd go RP of Taming the Lion, 7c+/E6. 7a+ flash warm-down. This was good as it pushed my shoulder, but it coped alright.
75.5kg this morning, but probably a cheat as I only had a protein shake dinner. Hoping to hit sub 75 by the weekend and a cheeky couple of RP goes on something that£s probably out of league right now£
Making progress with injured shoulder - slow progress back up the grades and gradual steepening of rock angle.
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium or Tony Slab Chamonix?
Do some progressive headpointing leading up to the Ogwen project.
Kilnsey £ go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Well Done finish, 8b (unlikely to find it dry again though?)
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
3x week finger board sessions
3x week core sessions £ more than just the 8min ab app
74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- FB Benchmarking
- Start some gradual weight loss
- Rehab
- Do some proper core training.
Last week:
M - Felt knackered from the weekend £ rehab and 15 sets of 60s on/60s off FO campus.
T - Early to London
W - More of London village. Theraband rehab on the tube £ got funny looks.
T - Home from London, then FB5. New PB at 122s for 1st set, but much steeper taper than previous efforts. Didn£t do the back-3 session as the shoulder was feeling tweaked. Good call as the DOMS the next day was special!
F - DOMS. More travel.
S - Uphill with hms. Few bolts of Chiming for you as warm-up, then flashed Living dead, f7b. Failed OS, epic dog, then eventual RP of The Jimi Hendrix Experience, f7b+/E6 6b. Collected Sloes for xmas gin
S - Cheddar with hms & AJM. E1 warm-up. 3rd go RP of Taming the Lion, 7c+/E6. 7a+ flash warm-down. This was good as it pushed my shoulder, but it coped alright.
75.5kg this morning, but probably a cheat as I only had a protein shake dinner. Hoping to hit sub 75 by the weekend and a cheeky couple of RP goes on something that£s probably out of league right now£
Post edited at 11:39
In reply to Dandan:
Hey Dan, Margalef is a bit of an aquired taste. If it's your first visit to the area I'd head for Cornudella and from there you are close to Siurana but only about 45 mins drive from Margalef. If you are going with your wife the sub 7a stuff is better at Siurana and the other surrounding crags. I'm not saying Margalef isn't great (I'm off there for a week in Nov for my third or fourth visit) but Siurana is better with more variety and the actual village of Suiurana is worth seeing.
You can get a ferry from Athens to Kaly can't you? Always thought this was a good way to go
Hey Dan, Margalef is a bit of an aquired taste. If it's your first visit to the area I'd head for Cornudella and from there you are close to Siurana but only about 45 mins drive from Margalef. If you are going with your wife the sub 7a stuff is better at Siurana and the other surrounding crags. I'm not saying Margalef isn't great (I'm off there for a week in Nov for my third or fourth visit) but Siurana is better with more variety and the actual village of Suiurana is worth seeing.
You can get a ferry from Athens to Kaly can't you? Always thought this was a good way to go
Post edited at 12:25
In reply to Tyler:
Hey Tyler, We've been to Margalef/Suirana before so I fully agree it has a pretty different style of climbing but I love it!
We will have a hire car so will probably spend a good chunk of time over at Siurana too. (I really want to do Bistec de bíceps (7b+) in Siuranella, it was beyond me last time)
You can get a ferry from Athens I think but it's several hours long, its just another of several options that are all a bit too laborious. Basically without a direct flight, my wife will struggle to find the travel time worthwhile for what would be a 10 day visit.
I'll just have to convince her to quit teaching and become a dog walker, then we can go whenever we like!
Hey Tyler, We've been to Margalef/Suirana before so I fully agree it has a pretty different style of climbing but I love it!
We will have a hire car so will probably spend a good chunk of time over at Siurana too. (I really want to do Bistec de bíceps (7b+) in Siuranella, it was beyond me last time)
You can get a ferry from Athens I think but it's several hours long, its just another of several options that are all a bit too laborious. Basically without a direct flight, my wife will struggle to find the travel time worthwhile for what would be a 10 day visit.
I'll just have to convince her to quit teaching and become a dog walker, then we can go whenever we like!
In reply to Ally Smith: Yeah found it very frustrating! This week has been okay, quite a lot of other stuff on though so sessions were a bit squeezed in...
Mon - core and antagonists at home, good little circuit but need to find some new exercises to increase intensity
Tue - rest
Wed - busy
Thurs - decent bouldering session but nothing special, not quite back in to the Climb Newcastle zone...
Fri - busy
Sat - busy
Sun - awesome evening session, just felt really strong and in control. Went round and ticked all but 5 of the 6c-7c circuit then finished with weighted pull-ups (+12kg 3x6 reps)
Another busy week this week but hopefully will manage a similar volume.
Cheers, Jake
Mon - core and antagonists at home, good little circuit but need to find some new exercises to increase intensity
Tue - rest
Wed - busy
Thurs - decent bouldering session but nothing special, not quite back in to the Climb Newcastle zone...
Fri - busy
Sat - busy
Sun - awesome evening session, just felt really strong and in control. Went round and ticked all but 5 of the 6c-7c circuit then finished with weighted pull-ups (+12kg 3x6 reps)
Another busy week this week but hopefully will manage a similar volume.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Joughton:
I've got a fantastic exercise ball core workout document that was sent to me by another friendly fitclubber, I can send it over if you give me an email address?
EDIT: it's a link to PDF, will this work on here?
https://www.necc.mass.edu/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/ath-swissball.pdf
> Mon - core and antagonists at home, good little circuit but need to find some new exercises to increase intensity
I've got a fantastic exercise ball core workout document that was sent to me by another friendly fitclubber, I can send it over if you give me an email address?
EDIT: it's a link to PDF, will this work on here?
https://www.necc.mass.edu/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/ath-swissball.pdf
Post edited at 13:00
2
In reply to Dandan:
Honestly, getting a flight to Kaly changing at Athens is basically the same in terms of travel time and hassle as the usual "direct" flight to Kos + ferry, it effectively takes a day of travelling each way however you do it. And changing flights at Athens is probably less hassle than getting a cab to Mastachari and then on to a ferry. There is a slight risk of travel disruption but again, compared to the usual method of getting there it is six of one, half a dozen of the other.
> Basically without a direct flight, my wife will struggle to find the travel time worthwhile for what would be a 10 day visit.
Honestly, getting a flight to Kaly changing at Athens is basically the same in terms of travel time and hassle as the usual "direct" flight to Kos + ferry, it effectively takes a day of travelling each way however you do it. And changing flights at Athens is probably less hassle than getting a cab to Mastachari and then on to a ferry. There is a slight risk of travel disruption but again, compared to the usual method of getting there it is six of one, half a dozen of the other.
Post edited at 15:06
1
In reply to planetmarshall:
I've just come back from a coaching trip there and it was amazing. I wasn't sure what to expect from it as I already do a fair amount of sport and didn't think I made too many technique mistakes but I actually took a lot on board, both physical and mental. A lot of the technique stuff I already did but maybe didn't really know why I did it, or wasn't self aware enough to do it consistently (straight arm climbing, twisting in etc.). Mine was a women's coaching holiday so probably not the right one for you but they obviously do mixed gender ones as well.
> Kalymnos was amazing, and can't wait to go back. Considering a coaching holiday for the Spring.
I've just come back from a coaching trip there and it was amazing. I wasn't sure what to expect from it as I already do a fair amount of sport and didn't think I made too many technique mistakes but I actually took a lot on board, both physical and mental. A lot of the technique stuff I already did but maybe didn't really know why I did it, or wasn't self aware enough to do it consistently (straight arm climbing, twisting in etc.). Mine was a women's coaching holiday so probably not the right one for you but they obviously do mixed gender ones as well.
In reply to Quiddity:
You are probably right but it's just a question of risk. If there is any kind of disruption, it will probably throw Mrs Dandan out for a day or two, then she will spend the holiday worrying about the trip back and she won't enjoy the whole experience. (she's a worrier, we'd be staying at home and driving to Portland daily for a fortnight if I let her organise the holiday!)
A single flight and hire car to Margalef leaves a lot less room for disruption, (not to mention being half the price and taking half the time) and it's not exactly a poor second choice destination!
I'll get back to Kaly, just not this Easter.
You are probably right but it's just a question of risk. If there is any kind of disruption, it will probably throw Mrs Dandan out for a day or two, then she will spend the holiday worrying about the trip back and she won't enjoy the whole experience. (she's a worrier, we'd be staying at home and driving to Portland daily for a fortnight if I let her organise the holiday!)
A single flight and hire car to Margalef leaves a lot less room for disruption, (not to mention being half the price and taking half the time) and it's not exactly a poor second choice destination!
I'll get back to Kaly, just not this Easter.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Yes I was. Looking at your logbook I think we might have been at Spartan Wall together on Sunday?
Yes I was. Looking at your logbook I think we might have been at Spartan Wall together on Sunday?
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for doing fit club Ally.
No - not had the daylight / time on weekend to get out.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Probably missed the Lakes trad' boat now
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 1hr 30min warm up and finger board (Contact strength)
T: Rest
W: pm - 1hr 30min warm up and finger board (Contact strength) 50min road run (Winter endurance)
T: Rest
F: am - 1hr 30min warm up, power exercises and limit bouldering (Power)
S: am - 1hr 40min road ride (Winter endurance)
S: pm - 1hr 30min family MTB ride (Winter endurance)
A good training week
Thanks for doing fit club Ally.
No - not had the daylight / time on weekend to get out.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Probably missed the Lakes trad' boat now
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 1hr 30min warm up and finger board (Contact strength)
T: Rest
W: pm - 1hr 30min warm up and finger board (Contact strength) 50min road run (Winter endurance)
T: Rest
F: am - 1hr 30min warm up, power exercises and limit bouldering (Power)
S: am - 1hr 40min road ride (Winter endurance)
S: pm - 1hr 30min family MTB ride (Winter endurance)
A good training week
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally, as I expected last week was a washout, work came to a head with moves, new IT systems and too launch events, phew kind of done now so will settle down and hopefully have quite a lot of flexibility.
So managed two sessions at TCA, a swim and a couple of shoulder/elbow rehabs, not a sniff of getting out in this fine weather.
I will posting on Lifts and Partners but have the week of the 26th booked off, normally would be heading off to Spain but decided to hold back this year, will work towards Easter trip but keen to get out in UK that week, probably localism, Portland? So if anyone's interested let me know, also got long half day free this Thursday and all the following Thursday in addition to the weekend, hopefully there's going to be some rock action.
Cheers
Rich
Thanks Ally, as I expected last week was a washout, work came to a head with moves, new IT systems and too launch events, phew kind of done now so will settle down and hopefully have quite a lot of flexibility.
So managed two sessions at TCA, a swim and a couple of shoulder/elbow rehabs, not a sniff of getting out in this fine weather.
I will posting on Lifts and Partners but have the week of the 26th booked off, normally would be heading off to Spain but decided to hold back this year, will work towards Easter trip but keen to get out in UK that week, probably localism, Portland? So if anyone's interested let me know, also got long half day free this Thursday and all the following Thursday in addition to the weekend, hopefully there's going to be some rock action.
Cheers
Rich
In reply to Ally Smith:
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly, Ally. Yup, well stoked on my Biblins season this year - decent progress on stuff. The Loop is still a work in progress but with the regular endurance sessions and my new 'working it from the end' method, it seems like I'm getting a tad closer...
Training Diary WC 05/10/15
Hello Rain
Monday – Easy Run: 11K in 50:03 at 4:31m/km pace with 192m of ascent. Mixed on and off road in the dark, the mist and the rain. Brilliant. Followed it up with a 40 min core and antagonistic work out.
Tuesday – TCA: not quite on it, possibly due to putting a fair bit of effort into yesterday’s antics. Still, fell off of some reds (hardest circuit) and yellows (second hardest) but made progress on two sloper problems and then smashed my PB on the Aero Pow 1 on:1 off on the circuit board. Onsighted a 34 move, steep 6c+ first rep and then did a 3:12min rep on the less steep 6b before settling into approximately 2 mins for each rep – well stoked! Bouldered about with Fit Clubber Nick too, we’ve agreed to work on each other’s weaknesses over winter.
Wednesday – Rest.
Thursday – TCA with Nick: ticked a load of yellows and made a tiny amount of progress on a slopey red (which gets TCA F7A and was polished off by Nick in four goes – whoop whoop!). Finished with a decent 40 mins of Aero Pow 1 on/1 off on the 6b circuit – having done a lap of the 6c+ first. An excellent session, thanks Nick.
Friday – Diggin’ in the evening.
Saturday – Digging and sleepering.
Sunday – Diggin’/sleepering – shifted 9 tonnes (ish) over the weekend – 6 or 7 tonnes to go.
STGs (this month) : Still keep up the aero-cap training keep on cranking on the steep/ the slopers and nail all the Yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and 8 Reds (hardest circuit) at TCA as well as the 7As on the Mothership.
Climb Underhand (7B+) at Almscliff this weekend.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting!
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – not this week.
Weight = 69.9kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly, Ally. Yup, well stoked on my Biblins season this year - decent progress on stuff. The Loop is still a work in progress but with the regular endurance sessions and my new 'working it from the end' method, it seems like I'm getting a tad closer...
Training Diary WC 05/10/15
Hello Rain
Monday – Easy Run: 11K in 50:03 at 4:31m/km pace with 192m of ascent. Mixed on and off road in the dark, the mist and the rain. Brilliant. Followed it up with a 40 min core and antagonistic work out.
Tuesday – TCA: not quite on it, possibly due to putting a fair bit of effort into yesterday’s antics. Still, fell off of some reds (hardest circuit) and yellows (second hardest) but made progress on two sloper problems and then smashed my PB on the Aero Pow 1 on:1 off on the circuit board. Onsighted a 34 move, steep 6c+ first rep and then did a 3:12min rep on the less steep 6b before settling into approximately 2 mins for each rep – well stoked! Bouldered about with Fit Clubber Nick too, we’ve agreed to work on each other’s weaknesses over winter.
Wednesday – Rest.
Thursday – TCA with Nick: ticked a load of yellows and made a tiny amount of progress on a slopey red (which gets TCA F7A and was polished off by Nick in four goes – whoop whoop!). Finished with a decent 40 mins of Aero Pow 1 on/1 off on the 6b circuit – having done a lap of the 6c+ first. An excellent session, thanks Nick.
Friday – Diggin’ in the evening.
Saturday – Digging and sleepering.
Sunday – Diggin’/sleepering – shifted 9 tonnes (ish) over the weekend – 6 or 7 tonnes to go.
STGs (this month) : Still keep up the aero-cap training keep on cranking on the steep/ the slopers and nail all the Yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and 8 Reds (hardest circuit) at TCA as well as the 7As on the Mothership.
Climb Underhand (7B+) at Almscliff this weekend.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting!
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – not this week.
Weight = 69.9kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Variation? What's that? There's nothing wrong with doing endless dish tucks is there? Especially if you're not doing very many... Hmmm... Eeerrrr...
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 6lbs
M - 200 dish tucks
T - Indoor routes
W - Rest
T - 100 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - 250 dish tucks
S - Rest
Monthly Avg - 84%
Yearly Avg - 67%
Actually, all the DIY, lifting and carrying is actually a fairly good form of all round cross training if you ask me. Not amazing, but it's reasonable work out I guess. I'm thinking about starting up a decent training plan for the winter so that I can get on Berlin next year and have a good chance at doing it. I just need to keep ticking over for the next month or so and keep the weight in control. Then hit it in a couple of months when I'm actually feeling a bit more motivated to train hard.
Variation? What's that? There's nothing wrong with doing endless dish tucks is there? Especially if you're not doing very many... Hmmm... Eeerrrr...
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 6lbs
M - 200 dish tucks
T - Indoor routes
W - Rest
T - 100 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - 250 dish tucks
S - Rest
Monthly Avg - 84%
Yearly Avg - 67%
Actually, all the DIY, lifting and carrying is actually a fairly good form of all round cross training if you ask me. Not amazing, but it's reasonable work out I guess. I'm thinking about starting up a decent training plan for the winter so that I can get on Berlin next year and have a good chance at doing it. I just need to keep ticking over for the next month or so and keep the weight in control. Then hit it in a couple of months when I'm actually feeling a bit more motivated to train hard.
In reply to Ally Smith:
PS - here's my route pyramid from Kalymnos. Hopefully it won't be a year before I get to fill it out some more....
(Dropbox link to pdf)
https://db.tt/SGX3eURW
PS - here's my route pyramid from Kalymnos. Hopefully it won't be a year before I get to fill it out some more....
(Dropbox link to pdf)
https://db.tt/SGX3eURW
In reply to Ally Smith:
Just wanted to say I'm really impressed with the new logbook updates, it appears to work very smoothly and looks really slick.
The only issue for me is that as it now cross-references any of your partner's climbs that have you marked down as their partner, it has reminded me to add a bunch of ticks to my logbook that I was too dozy to add previously, so my MTG of beating my best year of ticks has now gone from a target of 133 to 143! Damn.
Just wanted to say I'm really impressed with the new logbook updates, it appears to work very smoothly and looks really slick.
The only issue for me is that as it now cross-references any of your partner's climbs that have you marked down as their partner, it has reminded me to add a bunch of ticks to my logbook that I was too dozy to add previously, so my MTG of beating my best year of ticks has now gone from a target of 133 to 143! Damn.
In reply to AJM:
Figured I might as well recount the indoor session from this week before we go.
I seem to have somehow shifted from that kind of person who can just go on holiday to that sort of person who has to spend ages making sure that everything is ready and everyone knows what work they need to cover and so on. Which meant Monday in particular was mega busy.
But I managed a foot on campus session and pushed the pb from 114 seconds (about 10 days back I guess?) to 135 seconds.
I didn't get an exact baseline for what my "lattice board equivalent" foc time was (it was about 95secs sometime the week before and 110secs in the week after once the post cycling glycogen crash had gone) but an improvement of >20% over the latter figure which if it translated would take the lattice board move count north of 50 somewhere (54 using exact ratioing).
Figured I might as well recount the indoor session from this week before we go.
I seem to have somehow shifted from that kind of person who can just go on holiday to that sort of person who has to spend ages making sure that everything is ready and everyone knows what work they need to cover and so on. Which meant Monday in particular was mega busy.
But I managed a foot on campus session and pushed the pb from 114 seconds (about 10 days back I guess?) to 135 seconds.
I didn't get an exact baseline for what my "lattice board equivalent" foc time was (it was about 95secs sometime the week before and 110secs in the week after once the post cycling glycogen crash had gone) but an improvement of >20% over the latter figure which if it translated would take the lattice board move count north of 50 somewhere (54 using exact ratioing).
1
In reply to AJM:
Good data - that'll have diluted your max % an-cap level too.
>50 lattice moves has gotta equal 7c on-sight, especially if you add in the Kaly-factor!
The Call of the Ktulu (7b+) (7c on the app?)
Spartacus Maximus (7b+)
Carnivore (7c)
Polifemo (7c)
???
Good data - that'll have diluted your max % an-cap level too.
>50 lattice moves has gotta equal 7c on-sight, especially if you add in the Kaly-factor!
The Call of the Ktulu (7b+) (7c on the app?)
Spartacus Maximus (7b+)
Carnivore (7c)
Polifemo (7c)
???
Post edited at 13:58
In reply to Ally Smith:
Is Spartacus Maximus still 7c? Get on it, if so, Spartacus is a reasonable but sequency 7b+, then you get a sit down rest at the belay followed by ~7a.
Generally on Kaly the longer the route is the better your on sight prospects.
Is Spartacus Maximus still 7c? Get on it, if so, Spartacus is a reasonable but sequency 7b+, then you get a sit down rest at the belay followed by ~7a.
Generally on Kaly the longer the route is the better your on sight prospects.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Bit of a late entry! Thanks for the thread Ally
Monday - 2 mile hilly run
Tues - 3.4 mile run, 2 mile hilly bike ride.
Weds - 1.4 morning run, 2 hours roped climbing.
Thurs - 2.4 mile hilly run
Fri - 2.5 mile hilly run, 5 mile hilly bike ride, 2 hrs climbing + top up of bouldering with daughter in the evening.
Sat - 3 miles with daughter grumpy due to no hills! (pretty slow too). 2 hrs bouldering but only really 1 hr of work!
Sun - 4 mile bike hilly + 2 hours bouldering, just did v2-3 circuit as felt lousy.
I tried really hard to increase time doing stuff but the knee I fell on in July felt sore again and the Naproxene the GP gave to get rid of any residual swelling had started to make me feel quite sick by Sunday. I've now got other pills to stop the first pills making me nauseous so hopefully will sleep better. Next week's entry (this week) isn't going to take long though!
Bit of a late entry! Thanks for the thread Ally
Monday - 2 mile hilly run
Tues - 3.4 mile run, 2 mile hilly bike ride.
Weds - 1.4 morning run, 2 hours roped climbing.
Thurs - 2.4 mile hilly run
Fri - 2.5 mile hilly run, 5 mile hilly bike ride, 2 hrs climbing + top up of bouldering with daughter in the evening.
Sat - 3 miles with daughter grumpy due to no hills! (pretty slow too). 2 hrs bouldering but only really 1 hr of work!
Sun - 4 mile bike hilly + 2 hours bouldering, just did v2-3 circuit as felt lousy.
I tried really hard to increase time doing stuff but the knee I fell on in July felt sore again and the Naproxene the GP gave to get rid of any residual swelling had started to make me feel quite sick by Sunday. I've now got other pills to stop the first pills making me nauseous so hopefully will sleep better. Next week's entry (this week) isn't going to take long though!
In reply to AJM and Ally:
Sirene (7c) looked distinctly onsightable...
EDIT: and gets 7c in the guide
Sirene (7c) looked distinctly onsightable...
EDIT: and gets 7c in the guide
Post edited at 12:04
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally for doing FC, good to hear your shoulder is recovering! Been really busy with school past 2 weeks, so late again. The DOMS weren’t from climbing but from scrambling the day before, so feeling insecure in my legs I didn’t dare to commit to the topout mantle.
Weight: 69.2kg
M: rest/school
T:rest/school
W: climbing indoors, powered out on a 6c, went really bad afterwards, failing 2 6a’s.
T: running
F: bouldering indoors, managed all the yellow and red comp problems (5-6A). Didn’t try anything harder, but tried a new jamming crack, went quite ok, despite not topping out.
S: rest/school
S: climbing outdoors, seconded two trad 6-‘s and then onsighted 3 bolted 6’s
Thanks Ally for doing FC, good to hear your shoulder is recovering! Been really busy with school past 2 weeks, so late again. The DOMS weren’t from climbing but from scrambling the day before, so feeling insecure in my legs I didn’t dare to commit to the topout mantle.
Weight: 69.2kg
M: rest/school
T:rest/school
W: climbing indoors, powered out on a 6c, went really bad afterwards, failing 2 6a’s.
T: running
F: bouldering indoors, managed all the yellow and red comp problems (5-6A). Didn’t try anything harder, but tried a new jamming crack, went quite ok, despite not topping out.
S: rest/school
S: climbing outdoors, seconded two trad 6-‘s and then onsighted 3 bolted 6’s
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, good to see you are on the road to recovery - keep it steady now!
Had a meeting with coach last week to set out goals and discuss training. As a result I'm going to change things a little over this winter. Going to change from doubles most days to one solid longer run each day to leave more time for "life" and also to start with to get more recovery as sometimes doing doubles it feels like all you are doing is running. Time will tell if it pays off but plan is to get to 80 mile a week on mostly singles and then if feeling brave might push it on a bit from there......having said that the new training started this week not last so:
M: am - run to work 4/5M in 35:11, pm - run home 8/9M in 57:02
Tu: am - run to work 4/5M in 33:09, pm - road session. Had to get positive for this one: 15min tempo (3min jog) then 6 x (2min, 1.5min, 1min) all off 1min jog. Got spanked by my teammate who came over to do it with me. Was struggling to keep up on the tempo and only managed 5 of the 6 sets, wasted at the end. 12.5M total
W: Lunchtime - 6/7M offroad easy in 51:33 tired, pm - 4/5M run home in 35:06
Th: am - run to work 2M in 13:33, lunchtime - 7/8M loop in 51:02 lovely day
F: rest (drove to Holland for the wifes marathon on Sunday), back really stiff after driving
Sa: am - Road session 5 x 6min (2min recovery) found a flat stretch of cycle path (not hard in Holland) and merrily set about chasing folks on bikes! Starting to feel like there are signs of fitness but calves really sore. 9/10M
Su: am - run around the marathon course supporting my wife and handing her gels was out for over 2 hours but did around 11/12M.
Wife ran well (she came 4th) and was under 2:50 but sadly was a bit off her PB so was very disappointed (runners are never happy) but she has made amazing progress from where she was 24 months ago (hardly able to run at all).
Total 72M better week and starting to feel like fitness is returning, still need to find the scales!
Cheers Ally, good to see you are on the road to recovery - keep it steady now!
Had a meeting with coach last week to set out goals and discuss training. As a result I'm going to change things a little over this winter. Going to change from doubles most days to one solid longer run each day to leave more time for "life" and also to start with to get more recovery as sometimes doing doubles it feels like all you are doing is running. Time will tell if it pays off but plan is to get to 80 mile a week on mostly singles and then if feeling brave might push it on a bit from there......having said that the new training started this week not last so:
M: am - run to work 4/5M in 35:11, pm - run home 8/9M in 57:02
Tu: am - run to work 4/5M in 33:09, pm - road session. Had to get positive for this one: 15min tempo (3min jog) then 6 x (2min, 1.5min, 1min) all off 1min jog. Got spanked by my teammate who came over to do it with me. Was struggling to keep up on the tempo and only managed 5 of the 6 sets, wasted at the end. 12.5M total
W: Lunchtime - 6/7M offroad easy in 51:33 tired, pm - 4/5M run home in 35:06
Th: am - run to work 2M in 13:33, lunchtime - 7/8M loop in 51:02 lovely day
F: rest (drove to Holland for the wifes marathon on Sunday), back really stiff after driving
Sa: am - Road session 5 x 6min (2min recovery) found a flat stretch of cycle path (not hard in Holland) and merrily set about chasing folks on bikes! Starting to feel like there are signs of fitness but calves really sore. 9/10M
Su: am - run around the marathon course supporting my wife and handing her gels was out for over 2 hours but did around 11/12M.
Wife ran well (she came 4th) and was under 2:50 but sadly was a bit off her PB so was very disappointed (runners are never happy) but she has made amazing progress from where she was 24 months ago (hardly able to run at all).
Total 72M better week and starting to feel like fitness is returning, still need to find the scales!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally. I’m afraid the E4 project will have to wait until my return. This week better than recent weeks – 4 sessions - but still a bit rubbish in the middle.
M- Coaching then routes Brookes
T – rest
W –rest
T – rest
F – Bouldering stamina session of doom, Climbing Unit
S – Boulder Rheinstor on the V6 project. Getting further (and well past the crux) before I fall off, just need to keep concentration and avoid pump. Due to sharpness of pockets I can only really get in 3 or 4 goes a session before my skin packs up (tape doesn’t work). Another couple of sessions needed.
S – Boulder Robin Hood’s Stride some nice V3/V4s. Grit season is nearly here :O)
Thanks Ally. I’m afraid the E4 project will have to wait until my return. This week better than recent weeks – 4 sessions - but still a bit rubbish in the middle.
M- Coaching then routes Brookes
T – rest
W –rest
T – rest
F – Bouldering stamina session of doom, Climbing Unit
S – Boulder Rheinstor on the V6 project. Getting further (and well past the crux) before I fall off, just need to keep concentration and avoid pump. Due to sharpness of pockets I can only really get in 3 or 4 goes a session before my skin packs up (tape doesn’t work). Another couple of sessions needed.
S – Boulder Robin Hood’s Stride some nice V3/V4s. Grit season is nearly here :O)
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