Loading Notifications...
20m.

Rockfax Description
The near-perfect jamming crack has hard moves to enter and leave the prominent niche. It will swallow all the heavy metal protection you can afford (in both senses) to carry. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Monopoly, Millstone HVS's, The Millstone 'Streets', Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., Ultimate HVS ticklist, Millstone * HVS In a day, Top 50 Peak Cracks, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Michelle's crack ticklist, Millstone Edge, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Proper Cracks UK, Bob's Cracking Winter Jamming Crack List, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomwhite91 27 Jul Show βeta
βeta: If you can't jam this will teach you how!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you can't jam this will teach you how!
iainJ 8 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Block above /left of the niche is a bit loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Block above /left of the niche is a bit loose.
RossWoodruffe 17 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found this harder than Great Portland Street, but probably only because GPS has a short crux at the start and Bond Street is quite sustained.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this harder than Great Portland Street, but probably only because GPS has a short crux at the start and Bond Street is quite sustained.
nick w 5 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: awsome jamtastic !! go and do it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: awsome jamtastic !! go and do it
roberto18 27 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: thought this route was really hard for 5a,but the hard moves are well protected. Don't be fooled by the easy bottom moves, the crack gets thiner towards the top. sustained 5a after the half way point.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: thought this route was really hard for 5a,but the hard moves are well protected. Don't be fooled by the easy bottom moves, the crack gets thiner towards the top. sustained 5a after the half way point.
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: my first grit route. found it well pumpy and truely desperate on 2 or 3 sections where i had to jam. great route though. very memorable but dont think i will be coming back for too much more!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: my first grit route. found it well pumpy and truely desperate on 2 or 3 sections where i had to jam. great route though. very memorable but dont think i will be coming back for too much more!
sheffieldchris 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: done this route a few times now and allways tough on the forearms top tip have a rest with your feet on the small crimps to the right of the 2nd niche and your forearms on the ledge good finger jam to get off the niche
 
Show beta
βeta: done this route a few times now and allways tough on the forearms top tip have a rest with your feet on the small crimps to the right of the 2nd niche and your forearms on the ledge good finger jam to get off the niche
shaun walby 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Getting out of the niche.... tricky due to the fact it doesnt look like its going to be. Good stuff if you like cracks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Getting out of the niche.... tricky due to the fact it doesnt look like its going to be. Good stuff if you like cracks.
Sam and will 11 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: fell off this wen i was leading as a wee lad of 14 in '02, but hope to do it agen this yr and also the File can
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: fell off this wen i was leading as a wee lad of 14 in '02, but hope to do it agen this yr and also the File can
MeMeMe 9 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Had a lot of trouble getting into niche, virtually none getting out. Did it again on second and found that getting into the niche was a lot easier if I jammed my way into it instead of trying to use litle edges on the right as hand-holds. Don't say it is easier than the file, I have some unfinished business with the file after it spat me out a couple of years ago!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Had a lot of trouble getting into niche, virtually none getting out. Did it again on second and found that getting into the niche was a lot easier if I jammed my way into it instead of trying to use litle edges on the right as hand-holds. Don't say it is easier than the file, I have some unfinished business with the file after it spat me out a couple of years ago!
MNA123 23 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Give me a nice big slab anyday,i'm not exactly a jamming expert so i found this a bit of a struggle, after a fall onto a nicely placed friend just below the niche and lots of hanging around on gear with pumped arms i made it to the top. Found getting in2 the niche a lot harder then getting out. Still i can see why its the perfect jamminjg crack if your that way inclined.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Give me a nice big slab anyday,i'm not exactly a jamming expert so i found this a bit of a struggle, after a fall onto a nicely placed friend just below the niche and lots of hanging around on gear with pumped arms i made it to the top. Found getting in2 the niche a lot harder then getting out. Still i can see why its the perfect jamminjg crack if your that way inclined.
Mark S Davies 5 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent and easier than TheFile!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent and easier than TheFile!!
Albie 2 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: My first hand jamming climb. I was advised to just place a few bits of bomber gear and climb it style. Instead I unloaded my entire rack and was gibbering with exhaustion when I topped out. A classic climb and the end to a great weeeknd on gritstone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first hand jamming climb. I was advised to just place a few bits of bomber gear and climb it style. Instead I unloaded my entire rack and was gibbering with exhaustion when I topped out. A classic climb and the end to a great weeeknd on gritstone.

Logged Ascents

2752 users have logged this
314 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 334
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 327
Votes cast 322
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Great Portland Street

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)