UKC

Winters heres and i want to give hangboarding a go to improve my forearm endurance, got a board i built at work ...is it going to help doing drills on it? And how?

In reply to Yorkieboy:

It will make your fingers stronger/improve finger endurance whether that makes you better depends on your grade/discipline and your style I guess. Hope that helps.

In reply to Yorkieboy:

There are a million articles on hangboarding out there. Don't be lazy, get on google. The short answer is yes fingerboarding is better than doing nothing all winter. the long answer, depends on what your goals are. you're unlikely to significantly improve your endurance unless you are doing long hangs is my guess

In reply to Yorkieboy:


There's only one way to find out!

And remember, a plan's only going to work if you stick with it.

In reply to Yorkieboy:

There's some good info on fingerboarding or hangboarding in general from www.crusherholds.co.uk would be worth a read ...

http://www.pdf-archive.com/2011/08/04/crusher-holds-handout-3-5mb/crusher-h...

In reply to Yorkieboy:
In short to get started my advice would be to have 3 'drills'..

Strength - 5 on 5's - which is '5 second hang with 5 second rest x 5 times as a set. Take 3+ minutes rest between sets. 5 sets in total. Adjust your weight/hold at the start - so that you start to fail on the last hangs in the last sets. If you make it through all 5 sets without failing you'll need to add more weight. Or if you work out your 1 hang maximum (heaviest weight you can hang on for 1 or 2 secs), these need to be done at about 85% off that. Personally I've had great success with this protocol for improving absolute strength.

Strength/Strength Endurance - Repeaters 7 sec on 3 off x 6 times as a set. Take 3 minutes rest between sets. Anything up to 6 sets. You'll know about it in the latter sets! Talked about everywhere as a good protocol for fingerboarding. Difficult to do when your first starting and you'll probably get 'pumped out'.

Max Hangs - 10 to 12 second hang x 8. Take 3 minutes between hangs, you need to try and be well recovered. Adjust your weight/hold at the start - so that you start to fail on the last hangs in the last sets.

How do you phase and combine this drills... open to huge discussion. But doing blocks (4 to 6 weeks) of Strength & Max Hangs together and moving to a block of Strength Endurance & Max Hangs is a good basic plan.

Hope this helps...

In reply to Yorkieboy:

Short answer: yes.

Does nothing for your technique though!
Make sure the edges you are holding are challenging enough for the style of routes you want: hanging on big pockets would be useless if you are on slopey grit routes / tiny limestone edges.

Loads of resources out there, http://eveningsends.com/climbing/catch-hangboard-buzz/ will get you started.

Disclaimer: I'm not disciplined enough to finish a hangboard training schedule, despite having it in my yard next to a campus board I built this summer, YMMV.

In reply to Fraser:

>"And remember, a plan's only going to work if you stick with it. "

In reply to JLS:

"You talkin' to me?"

It works, that's why it's so popular.

Most people would agree that with only one year's experience and climbing F6b indoors you'd get more gains in climbing grade from bouldering and/or structured training sessions on rope. Depends on what your biggest weaknesses are of course, but there are lots of other improvements that could get you to f6c. Improving your core strength,as just one example, is much less likely to sideline you with training injuries.

Still, it can be fun, convenient, cheap, so if you're ambitious no reason not to.

If you do go for it, warmup *well* (I do 20 minutes: 5' light cardio, shoulder mobility, press ups, easy hangs on bar), and don't push your limits for the first 2 or 3 sessions. One idea is to download the beastmaker app and do their BM5A session; BUT only do the first 6 of their 18 sets. Then after 3 or 4 sessions over 2-4 weeks you can do the second run through to make 12 sets in a workout. Common wisdom is this is enough hangs and you're better to add more weight if necessary rather than doing more volume. I did this for about 4 weeks (2x per week) and saw good gains. I was already fairly solid on 6c and knocking on the door of f7a when I did this. I do think it helps to remove weight using a pulley system and harness if some hangs are too hard.

Good luck!

In reply to Siderunner:

Its just when im on late shift every other week..cant get partners or easy access to wall before my shift at 12pm..thats only reason i giving it a go for training when im stuck

In reply to Yorkieboy: We are English. We call it fingerboarding. The Yanks call it hangboarding. They are wrong.

Andy F

In reply to Siderunner:

Second the advice on warming up, I got too keen on the fingerboard when I had a knee injury, didn't warm up anywhere near enough and ended up with severe elbow pain that took months to go away.