UKC

NEWS: Meiose, ~9b first ascent by Pirmin Bertle

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 UKC News 23 Nov 2015
Pirmin Bertle taking the mono that marks the end of the hard climbing on Meiose, 9b, Charmey, Switzerland, 6 kbPirmin Bertle has made the first ascent of Meiose at La Tribune, Charmey. He calls it his hardest route ever and suggests a whopping 9b.

Yesterday there we posted a video of Pirmin Bertle climbing an ~8C+ boulder, today we report about the first ascent of a ~9b.

One day before...

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DanGreb 23 Nov 2015
In reply to UKC News:

It's funny how nobody doubted Andrada when he sent 2 9bs. Or Magnus Midtbø for that matter.

Andrada couldn't send an 9a+ in the mecca of hard climbing. His hardest apart from his Ali Hulk variations, La novena enmienda, was downgraded from 9a+/b to 9a by Ramonet and Ondra. He has sent two 9a/+ routes: the aforementioned La novena enmienda, and Ciudad de Dios.

Midtbø repeated the sit start to the Ali Hulk Extension. His hardest routes were also La novena enmienda & Ciudad de Dios until recently when he sent his first 9a+ Papichulo. 5 years after his 9b ascent he sent his first bona fide 9a+.
 stp 29 Nov 2015
In reply to DanGreb:

It's a very good and interesting point and I think there's a lot to this issue. Certainly not the first time this comes up in climbing.

I think humans have a tribal nature. If you're part of the tribe then what you say can be trusted. But if you're an outsider you are less trustworthy. What you say should be regarded with skeptism. There's also more freedom to attack an outsider with no risk of damage to the tribe.

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