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How do you really get into Ice climbing?

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 swifty 23 Dec 2015

Hey,

I am just curious, what are the first steps you have to take to get into Ice Climbing?

I have only recently just got properly back into climbing, so I am not planning on hitting the ice any time soon but I would like to think one day I would give it ago? Do you recommend taking a course? Or with enough rock climbing experience can I just jump into it?


Cheers

And Merry Christmas
Post edited at 17:43
myrockface 23 Dec 2015
In reply to swifty:

I'd definitely say a course or at least someone with qualifications / impressive experience to take you under their wing. Snow and ice conditions are something you can only assess with experience. That being said a lot depends on what you want to climb - water ice or gullies? When it comes to water ice i couldn't recommend strongly enough top roping and placing gear on the way - then have someone assess your ice screws who knows what they're doing. Plus I think it takes a surprising amount of time to become proficient at leading on ice!
As with everything though if you have your head screwed on tight and take the right advice you could set up some top ropes on some ice falls, etc. but do take into account there are a lot more objective dangers in winter climbing compared to rock, so even for top roping i'd probably recommend learning from somebody else 1st.
1
 Mark Haward 23 Dec 2015
In reply to swifty:

Different people prefer different approaches. There is little information on your profile to help give a more informed response so here are some thoughts:

1) Assuming you have experience in trad. multipitch climbing and winter hill walking experience plus suitable equipment for winter routes then the cheap ( but potentially more hazardous ) approach is to teach yourself. There are excellent books and videos that can help. However, don't underestimate the extra skills involved. Winter navigation, judging snow and ice conditions, avalanche awareness and avoidance, snow and ice protection techniques etc. It is quite possible to develop skills on walking routes and through 'ice bouldering' - routes with very short sections and good flat bases / tops. Many people started / start like this - not the fastest approach.
2) Join a club and learn with like minded people. Still very cheap with the added advantage, hopefully, of having people with expertise around to show you the ropes and pick up skills more rapidly.
3) Join a course, for example PYB, Glenmore Lodge or Jagged Globe up in Scotland or European ice. More expensive but a much safer way to start, much of the kit is provided and is also likely to lead to very fast development. By the end of most courses you should feel ready to lead your own routes. Another alternative could include some workshops at an ice climbing wall such as at Kinlochleven - bear in mind that whilst this will help for pure ice climbing it won't help with all the other skills required.
4) Hire an MIC or a guide, by yourself or with a friend to split costs, for a fully personalised approach. More expensive but likely to lead to even faster development of knowledge, skills and confidence as it will be fully adapted to your needs.

You need to weight up the relative costs, risks, what would suit the way you think you learn best and the amount of time you have to spare for yourself I'm afraid - nobody can really answer those questions for you. Have fun, it's awesome!!
 summo 23 Dec 2015
In reply to swifty:

Very few leap from summer rock to grade V ice, It's a progressive apprenticeship. Snow gullies learning some basic cramponing and winter belay skills. Then maybe up to grade II, something that needs two axes and may feel a little steeper... Then on it goes.. perhaps grade III where you will get longer pitches of near vertical ice does it feel you are ice climbing.

Some might do this in a few days seconding, or years leading.

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