UKC

Anyone on here done Ellingwood Peak in the Wind Rivers in Wyoming? Or have any useful info on the area (Titcomb Basin)? A friend wants me to do North Arete with him next summer. Looks superb from what I can see (Summitpost, basically - although one of the pics makes it look desperate)

In reply to Iain Thow:

Not directly relevant to the route you have in mind, but there's plenty of background here:
http://www.trek-lite.com/index.php?threads/a-wind-rivers-high-route.1396/

In reply to malky_c:

Cheers for that, looks a great place, and there's a couple of good pics of the route about halfway through, one labelled "Mr Splinter" and one from the side a few further on, with the sun catching the arete - looks much more doable than the one from below. I reckon I have to take my mate up on the suggestion while I'm still capable of getting up 17 pitches!

In reply to Iain Thow:

Check the route info on Mountain Project:
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-ridge/106077081

In reply to highcamp:

Is 5.6 about severe? I can't remember and it's quicker to ask than look it up, plus I wanted to bump this thread as the traverse of the Wind Rivers looks great,but I would want to take rock gear to climb some routes en route.

Been there back in 1984 and the main bother was the mosquitoes. The fishing was great from an eating point of view.

In reply to Iain Thow:

Not done it - however the Wind River range is absolutely fabulous. Three points:
1. Long walk in and remote (definitely part of the charm)
2. It's high up - so allow a couple of days to acclimatise
3. Mosquitos (Wyoming state bird)

Even if you don't climb anything at all (which was the case on my serious attempt to get to Pingora), it is very much worth a visit. There is nothing like it in Europe. To avoid (3), early or late season are best, but too early and snow cover can be an issue (as it was for us) and too late shorter days and storms can be a problem.

Titcomb basin is in the more accessible part of the Winds accessed via Pinedale

In reply to veteye:

Yes, looks like 5.6 is the equivalent of Severe in the UK (http://i.stack.imgur.com/YxnxW.gif). I have to say, your UK system for trad climbs is so much more useful than ours in the US. Having a variable for "boldness" is brilliant. Here, you have no idea if a 5.10a is a straight forward march with lots of gear options, or if it's a desperate widow-maker with an RP option every 30 meters or so. Same grade.

Anyway, we've had a pretty wild winter in the Rockies because of the El Niño weather pattern, so definitely check on the snow coverage in the Winds as you get closer to your trip.

In reply to pneame:

Everyone I've met who has been to the Winds has raved about them. For work reasons my trip has to be July or August, so I guess I get the mozzies and the afternoon thunderstorms, but maybe not that much snow?

In reply to Iain Thow:

That should be fine for snow - by late august the mozzies are usually gone. My main trip was in early June to cater to my pathological dislike of mozzies - definitely a mistake!
Also went in winter and failed to allow for acclimatization - another huge mistake! The latter trip also taught me that serious winter camping (i.e hauling a sled) is a bit of an acquired taste.

It's just a magical place, though.

Titcomb basin doesn't have any high-ish passes to cross for access (so easy even if there's still a bit of snow), but it does have a flattish walk in so great breeding ground for flying things. The Wyoming mozzies are slow and dumb but do have remarkable penetrating power, so it might be a good idea to grab some hats with a mesh screen "just in case" while in Pinedale.

The other issue is wildlife - note the bear hangs in the trip report (which really captures the feel of the place - a mixture of intimate and grand at the same time)