UKC

Alpine rock in late June

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 Matt Buchanan 21 Feb 2016
I have secured a rare pass from my wife to go on a weeks climbing holiday in late June. I'm really keen to do some nice long rock routes. I just need some inspiration for where to go! I'd be most grateful if anyone had advice on a reasonably reliable venue for alpine rock at this time of year.

Cheers,
Matt
 veteye 21 Feb 2016
In reply to Matt Buchanan:

Never been but have heard of some 15 pitch long VSs in the Pyrenees that I fancy doing sometime.
Otherwise get reading Rebuffat's 100 best Mont Blanc Climbs or the modern version of the same.Alternatively read Michel Piola's guide books.All of these are often bedtime reading for me.(Dreaming before I dream)
 cat22 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Matt Buchanan:

Val di Mello is wonderful, and seems to have better weather than a lot of the Alps. It's not got a lot of lower grade routes, but Luna Nascente (E1ish) is fantastic - must be one of the better routes of its grade in Europe. If it's hot in the valley, there are higher routes around the huts above the valley. There's sport climbing and bouldering for days with less good weather, and in general it's just a lovely place.

Alternatively, get a copy of Swiss Plaisir Selection, fly to anywhere in Switzerland, hire a car and go where the weather is best!
 AlanLittle 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Matt Buchanan:

Dolomites or Kaisergebirge can both be climbable in June if the weather's ok - and this has been a mild winter with not much snow in the eastern Alps. You can still expect a fair bit of neve on approaches & descents, but south facing routes are often fine.
 David Rose 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Matt Buchanan:

Late June is a tricky time. It can be really good - with snow that is still in good condition, and freezing well at night, as well as clean, dry rock - or it can be a total washout in the high mountains. Even in the Ecrins - known for better weather than Mont Blanc or the big peaks of Switzerland - I have had a poor week during a similar matrimonial exit pass.

The key, I'd say, is flexibility. Be prepared to change objectives at the last moment, and have a plan B - an area which might be fine even if the Alps are wet, such as the Picos de Europa, the Gran Sasso or even Scotland.

That said, usually the Ecrins will be good at this period of the year. Ailefroide and La Berarde are both great valley bases with campsites, accommodation, bars, fantastic granite climbing low down and much more solid mountain rock than the area's reputation might suggest, on peaks such as the the Sialouze and Pic Sans Nom (accessed from Ailefroide) or the Dibona, Tete Rouget, Aiguille de Soreiller and Meije (reached from La Berarde).
 HeMa 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Matt Buchanan:

From doing a few trips like that...

Get a selection of topos (Plaisir -series is good for CH and border areas), fly to a cental location (Geneva, Zurich or Milan) and rent a car. Be mobile, and drive where the weather seems good. Camp in camping grounds (so bring a tent), and if weather is good high up, sleep in refuges or bivy huts.

Worse come, you'll end up bolt clipping in IT or FR.
 euanw 25 Feb 2016
In reply to Matt Buchanan:
How about Les Aravis and the Chaine du Bargy? It is about 1 hour from Geneva airport or Chamonix. Amazing limestone routes that dry quickly. There are a number of photos on the climbnow Facebook page from the start of September 2014 and some reports on the blog if interested.

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