UKC

Hi hoping to do the ledge route sunday would you recommend 1 axe or 2

In reply to rodw:

Always 2 for me at this time of year....

In reply to rodw:

Did it today, I used two but cos I had them with me, my mate used one.

Guess it depends how light you really wanna be.I've just typed a small description but I deleted it..enjoy its a good route, take time to enjoy where you are.

In reply to rodw:

One axe is all you will need, even with minimal technique. There is no need for "piolet a bludgeon" on the route, such is the angle. It doesn't get 3 stars for nothing, enjoy.

In reply to rodw:

Ledge Route is gained from Number 5 gully which funnels snow from a huge avalanche prone bowl above (with slopes from east through north to west). I personally wouldn't be anywhere near it until the conditions stabilise a bit. Please take care as we have already lost too many in avalanches this year.

From SAIS (the cold conditions means things will only improve slowly):

Forecast Snow Stability & Avalanche Hazard

Large areas of moderately bonded snow will be present, mainly on North, North-East, East and South-East aspects above 800m. Additionally, localised areas of unstable windslab will be present on some steeper slopes of the same aspect. Where old snow is exposed, it will be frozen and stable. Remaining cornice will be unstable. The avalanche hazard will be Considerable

Forecast Weather Influences

It will remain cold and dry with light winds from an East or North-Easterly direction.

In reply to rodw:

There were guided groups on Ledge Route on Thursday and the avalanche forecast has improved since then. Obviously caution needed when crossing No. 5.

http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/whiteline-ledge-route-gorm-g...

I took 2 axes but only used the second on the narrow gully after No. 5 (and didn't really need it for that), it was just extra weight.

In reply to GrantM:
The forecast I put up is the current forecast. Considerable risk means people should really be avoiding the area of a gully particularly prone to avalanche.

For those disliking a post about avalanche warnings, from a blog (Meagaidh) "Finally, something on stability and hazard at the moment. The prolonged cold spell has preserved instability in the snowpack (see the report for locations) but it is being bridged over by quite dense snow. The weak layers are shearing readily and cleanly and as the dense snow is supportive – bridging over the weak layers – it will bear some weight before failing. The upshot of this is that if the loading is sufficient the tensile strength of the slab will fail quickly and the failure will propagate. If it breaks it’s likely to break wide and deep. We’re unlikely to see any natural (untriggered) avalanches right now but since the start of February there have been 17 avalanches in the Scottish Highlands triggered by and involving humans."