UKC

Was thinking of tackling the Good Friday Climb when I was up next week. It will be my first grade III I was just wondering if anyone had any advice on what gear is most useful and how many pitches to aim for. I'm usually not too concerned about having prior knowledge but I guess it being my first Grade III attempt and only owning two ice screws is playing on my mind!

In reply to Jackspratt:

Two screws may not be enough for the ice pitch, depends on what you get for a belay, It is more an ice route than a mixed!!
Also, I found a deadman to protect the cornice was very handy. I recall the guy beside me on another climb wished he had one.

Cheers
Euge

In reply to Jackspratt:
There is one main ice pitch (2). Two screws is a little light but also probably OK depending how bold / confident / experienced you are. Even if you had more I doubt you'd place more than 3 - 4 on the pitch, but you may need some to belay from too. The pitch before may sometimes be ice I think, the belay after the crux can be in snow (T axe) late season with no rock / ice gear.

The other (0-3) pitches (depending how you play it) are much easier and didn't need screws when I did it and neither did the belays. I seem to remember the belay at the end of pitch 1 was a bit problematic (seem to remember warthog + deadman + something else) and could possibly be ice gear in some conditions I reckon, which could complicate matters if you need to place screws for the next pitch (2) - you could use v threads but learning the technique on a busy route on your first grade III ice route my not be ideal. Overall I think carrying more than 5 or so screws up the climb would be overkill, 2 maybe be ok but it will likely feel a little bold and may cause some hassle if you need to belay in ice (others may be able to say for sure if that belay can sometime be ice)

You might want to watch being in observatory gully approaching the climb when the avalanche is considerable or higher on that aspect IMO.

In reply to Euge:
Hey Euge

Do you think the belay before the ice crux can sometimes be screws? The left hand forms there doesn't it and is an ice route that looks like it may cover the rock / neve in some conditions. Perhaps there's a rock belay down the gully a little way instead of belaying at the fork?

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Brilliant that's all very helpful, I have a little left in the kitty as I've skimped on the accommodation side of things so I was thinking of picking up a couple more screws I think everyones feedback has cemented that it would be a good idea. I've heard its a bit dicey on the avalanche front at the moment which leads me on to another question does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative route!

In reply to CurlyStevo:

According to my notes, we took 8 screws and used 6 of them!
Scariest part of the route was digging through the cornice with my only gear 40m or so below, wishing I hadn't left both of my deadmen at home!

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

might pick up a deadman as well then just in case

In reply to CurlyStevo:

what's the route on the left called again?

In reply to Jackspratt:
when the avalanche forecast is bad for NE aspects you are really better off going somewhere else than the Ben at grade III IMO. Normally in these conditions West facing aspects are better which would mean another venue. In that area the ridges on the WEST face of Aonach Mor are a possibility. You can get a climbers gondola most the way up.

Or just check out what's getting logged on here and check the aspect of the crag (inc approach and desent) compared with the SAIS report. Also the northern corries face slightly west (mostly north) so can be a reasonable bet when the forecast is (typically) bad for easterly aspects as long as you stay away from the east facing side of the corries.

In reply to francois:

I'm not 100% sure without the guide in front on me.

In reply to petestack:
Judging by the cornices (lack of) and generally conditions in the pics / time of year I'm guessing conditions were pretty lean. Right now I'm guessing they are pretty fat? (I've not been out much at all this winter and then it was two early season winter walks - I'm injured and out for the season )

More importantly how many screws did you take / place