UKC

Scottish climber Robbie Phillips has just released the fourth episode of a new series of training videos called "The Process." This episode focuses on the basics of power endurance.

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In reply to UKC Articles:
Just looked through this. I'm finding that the balance between music and spoken word volume is very biased towards the music in some sections. Did anyone else think this, and was it deliberate?

Other than that, liked it

In reply to UKC Articles:

'Cause I don't enjoy redpointing, I never bother to train PE, so I'm really crap at doing hard routes in the wall (I hardly ever bother). Robbie says training PE is 100% specific to sport climbing which is clear, but do people think it has much value in trad?

IME the amount of PE needed for onsighting trad at my limited comes naturally with bouldering and doing laps, it doesn't seem to ever be the limiting factor (i.e. falling at the end of a long sustained sequence). When I fail on trad, it's normally because I just can't do the moves (for a whole load of reasons, many psychological factors contributing).

Worth bothering as a trad climber?

In reply to Jon Stewart:



I would say yes, definitely. Just because you feel the reason you stop on trad is (predominantly?) psychological, it could be that subconsciously, you know your body isn't up to the task of completing a hard section coming up, so you mentally don't commit. That could well be PE based. If you knew or felt you still had something spare in the tank, you'd be more likely to press on.

Let's face, it upping your PE will do you know harm, nomatter what type of climbing you're doing.

In reply to Fraser:


I find I can normally downclimb from the stopper move back to whatever the last rest/gear stance was without falling off, and hang on for hours to decent holds - I think there's some left in the tank, but I can't do the move. Agree it could still be PE though, and no harm in getting better. But I suspect that time might be better spent bouldering to provide that extra bit of umph for hard moves...

In reply to Jon Stewart:


And as I understand it, getting stronger will generally improve your PE anyway, because all the moves are then easier.

In reply to wbo:

Duly noted! Glad you enjoyed it regardless.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

An interesting question and I suppose it depends where and which routes you're on. In general, even in sport climbing, I don't think there's a lot of true power endurance routes in this country. I suppose I'm thinking of say 20 - 30 moves without any kind of rest. That kind of route is generally on fairly steep rock and there's a paucity of that type of climbing in the UK, probably even more so on trad than sport. I suspect that's why we have such a strong culture of bouldering and possibly, in part, a poor record in lead competitions.

Very useful for modern indoor climbing though.

In reply to wbo:


Well in its defense at least it had some spoken word which is already a big improvement on a lot of climbing videos out there.

But I tend to agree, I don't think an instructional training video should need any music at all and it made the whole thing seem rather cheesy to me.

Adding music to climbing videos seems to be very fashionable at the moment. It's fine if adds something like a specific mood at certain places. But more often than not I think its there to hide the fact the film maker has nothing interesting to say.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Not sure about the claim that Wolfgang was 'the pioneer of modern climbing training'.

Campus boards are just one aspect of modern training. Pete Livesey's name is much associated with the birth of the climbing wall and training for climbing. It was in the UK woodies were first developed and the first modern climbing wall, the Foundry, was also here. Bachar ladders are obviously American and, as far as I know, the emphasis on strength and power and bouldering also originated there, although those ideas were spread by the influence and success of Jerry Moffatt. I'd say it would be more accurate and fairer to say Wolfgang was a</a> pioneer rather than the pioneer.