UKC

I've got a bit of Tennis Elbow coming on (with a bit of golfers elbow at the same time maybe?). It's very annoying really as the climbing season is just starting to ramp up... I don't climb particularly hard trad (VS), so I doubt it's that which is causing it. I think it is most likely sport / indoors (6a/6b), which I have done a fair bit of recently, that is causing the pains.

I've got a couple of Therabands coming in the post, and a 'Theraband Flexbar'. Has anyone here had any good results using these? If so how long did it take and were there any particular exercises that you found useful?

Any tips or advice is more that appreciated (so long as it is on topic!)

Cheers

In reply to BStar:

This should help your golfers...

http://bit.ly/golfers-elbow

In reply to JR:

Thanks for that link, I'd not seen that before. Much appreciated.

In reply to BStar:

Stretch and rest, rinse and repeat.

In reply to BStar:

I had good success with theraband flexbar, but it only helped me after I attached the flexbar to a table using a vice attached to a crocodile clip, which grabbed the flexbar.

Basically this means you don't need to use your other arm to twist the bar into position, which is a problem if you have TE in both elbows!

That technique helped me make a full recovery but too much DIY caused TE to return a year later. I've recently had success shifting it with the following video, seems very effective: vimeo.com/37446631

Good luck, email me if you have any questions - I've been battling this for six-ish years and have done lots of research on it...

In reply to BStar:

Definitive link is http://drjuliansaunders.com/dodgy-elbows/

Buy an armaid, use it, life good again
Cheers
LD

In reply to BStar:

I have used a diclofenic cream in the past and it seems to work very well

In reply to BStar:
if I was you I'd stop climbing anything overhanging immediately especially indoors. If you can, just climb outdoor trad until you are healed.

In reply to Lurking Dave:

I find the BR stretch in that article very helpful.

In reply to BStar:

Watch this http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=555

Make one, and do the exercise. £3 for the bits and pieces from Decathlon and then £5 for a broom handle of the right diameter.

Made one last week, as it happens. Works for tennis or golfers elbow - just go the other way

In reply to BStar:
I'm currently trying to rid myself of double tennis elbow, which I suspect was brought on more from excessive DIY and misuse of a flexbar (buts that's another story) than from actual climbing.
After getting an ultrasound and seeing an orthopaedic specialist, the best advice I came away with was to regularly do activities which lightly use the injured tendon until you feel a small level of soreness, this will encourage your body to pay attention to the tendon and promote healing. For me, this was light-ish steep climbing, (which may not be ideal for you if you have golfers elbow too) which caused no direct pain while doing it, but left my elbows feeling sore after a couple of hours. The next morning the elbows would feel noticeably better and this happened every time I climbed as long as I didn't push too hard.

The specialist told me that for the last couple of decades there have been numerous treatments developed, ultrasound, laser, steroid, acupuncture, heat, cold, you name it, but the only thing that can repeatably be shown to help is light use of the affected tendon to encourage healing. He said to indulge in any of the other treatments by all means, (I like to heat, massage, mobilize and stretch occasionally) but it will most likely only make you feel better about being proactive rather than definitively helping the tendon.

I've gone from being unable to pick up an empty glass at arms length to being able to hold a full bag of shopping at arms length in 4 months, so it has been working for me, good luck!

EDIT: I should add that exercises like the broom handle one could definitely be considered as light use of the affected tendon, I've heard good things about them

In reply to BStar:

As Lurking Dave says, give an Armaid a try. https://www.theclimbingacademy.com/shop/rehab/