Absolutely get in touch with Tom Randall. I've had a training plan from Tom for a year now, and he's taken me from just having redpointed 7c/E4 to 7c/E5 onsight and multiple E7/8a. Looking forward to pushing the envelope even more this year after a winter of training.
You can get in touch with Tom by searching 'Lattice' on Facebook. He's off to the USA in a few days though!
I wouldn't worry too much, UKC is packed full of bell ends who are just bitter when people show signs of progress/training/anything other than trad on sight!
Is it really that much? Do you think the difference was the plan itself, or the fact that you had a plan meant you stuck to structured training? Maybe hard to say.
It's cheap for what you get. A really well structured plan that can be altered at any time around circumstances, trips, etc - and really detailed guidance for all exercises with personalised difficulty and easy ways to measure progression. All this with Tom on board and ready to respond to any queries/give advice rapidly, and obviously operating from a whole bunch of experience with high level athletes. I couldn't recommend him enough. I can guarantee that I wouldn't have climbed what I have without his help.
Might consider if I struggle to progress, but usually I'm happy ticking over and making some progress, and I've always found a way to do that so far. But I'm 45 next month, so maybe the plateau will arrive before I expect...
> I wouldn't worry too much, UKC is packed full of bell ends who are just bitter when people show signs of progress/training/anything other than trad on sight!
The idea of using a coach was anathema to me having decades of climbing under my belt. However last year I lost a lot of time and fitness due to work overload and I needed a more systematic approach to making the most of my limited training time. A session with Katherine Schirrmacher (lovetoclimb.co.uk) to put together a training plan based around my weaknesses (strength and conditioning rather than technique ) was very helpful and gave me a flying start with a sports trip to Sicily over Easter. Now I've got more time I'm continuing with the training and hoping for further gains when the Peak dries out.
Good luck with the recovery; I think Katherine could help you make the most of training around this to get fit again. I hope to see you on the crag soon, if not the pub.
John Kettle, not quite Manchester tho. Worth the drive up to Kendal. Highly recommended, I had a few sessions with him a year ago and they were really good.
What does it matter, I don't want to pay £35 a month for a coach? Not everyone is that interested in coaching, which means it isn't necessarily good value for them.
£25 per hour is the going rate for an experienced strength and conditioning coach / gym trainer in the north, so £35 per month could be good value, depending on how much time the coach is spending on you specifically during the month (either face-to-face or remotely), and what experience and sports science background they have.
Have you tried Any Swann at http://www.grittrackandtrail.co.uk/ He's got decades of experience bouldered really hard in his day (some of the UK's first English 7b problems), is a fantastic world class coach and all round good guy!
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