UKC

A couple of my mates who are perhaps 7b-7c climbers have invited me to Magic Wood later this year, I spoke to someone who said that most of the climbs there are pretty hard (majority 6c or above).
I've climbed a few 6a's and the odd soft 6b and I'm wondering if there will be enough easier boulder problems to keep me busy for the week?
Any other advice on Magic Wood trips is welcome

Cheers

In reply to ckevany:

Unless your comfortable at flashing or getting 7A or harder boulder problems quickly, MW won't suit you.

I would also advise that if your climbing 6A and your mates are climbing 7B-C then you may have tough time getting spots or find yourself at odds trying to get the time to work on climbs.

The bad weather, horrific landings, the expensive food, the sheer ball ache getting around make MW not so great.

Great if you live in Milan, Zurich or the other close by big cities but when you total up the relative expenses, you can go to Rocklands in SA for longer and cheaper and it's infinitely better place.

In reply to alx:

Sorry I should clarify: Two of the five will be climbing stuff I can't pull on to, there will be another two who are of a similar ability to me so we will be able to dedicate time to stuff at around our level

In reply to ckevany:

I think you'd be better of doing the usual and going to Font, from my limited experience MW is just punch in the balls after punch in the balls.....

In reply to ckevany:

Drop 6kg in weight and climb 8c.

In reply to ckevany:

That's great, but there are not many climbs sub 6C of which the quality is dubious.

I was warned off MW until I could at least climb 7A comfortably, I actually ended up only visiting when I was breaking into 8A of which it was great, but for those climbing in our group around sub-7A they did not have a great time. To be fairly brunt, it's a performance venue, high 7's and 8's.

The venue itself is tiny, no bigger than the size of Stanage plantation, but packed in back to back. This is a big problem when it's out of condition or busy on a weekend as it's mental.

Other venues offer better climbing in terms of acces, stable weather conditions, value for money, other things to do on rest days,
I would definitely recommend font or other venues for mixed ability groups.

MW itself is now a bit of a dump compared to the pristine forest up the road, it very much used to be like Fanghorn forest in LoTR. If it rains for a few a days then it's unclimbable for a while due to the dankness and humidity. The rest of the valley is stunning but you don't get to see it due to how enclosed the forest is. Most of the climbs are out of holes, something the videos don't show you.

Lastly the landings...something else the videos don't show you. The landings are shocking, take as many mats as you can muster, expect to have to perch your mats on dodgy rotten platforms made of sticks, avoid putting your mats anywhere new tissue paper...

Your probably now realise that I am not a fan of MW, having gone to other venues year on year we decided to skip our annual pilgrimage for MW.

Massive let down.

In reply to alx:

We've already done a Font trip this year, do you have any suggestions for good quality bouldering without having to head further (from the UK)

In reply to robal:

We've had a Font trip this year and whilst I appreciate that we didn't do the whole forest it might be nice to go elsewhere, have you got any suggestions that are within a similar or smaller distance of the UK?

In reply to ckevany:

I thought Albaraccin was a good venue for a week long trip.

If you want to stick with Switzerland, then Chironico would offer a bit more than magic wood for volume of easier climbs with generally better landings and you could always do a day trip to magic wood if very keen (base yourself near to bellinzona). Cresciano is also nearby with some fantastic technical problems.

In reply to ckevany:

Distance is irrelevant. When you take into consideration the different ways of getting to MW, you could have taken the 11hr flight to Rocklands.

I fly BA from Heathrow, takes me 2.5hrs to do Sheffield to the airport, I fly out at 9pm on Saturday night, I arrive 6am in the morning, the drive takes 2.5hrs to Clanwilliam (Rocklands), I am bouldering by 3pm having done my shopping in town for the week and having had lunch in a cafe. I have no jet lag as the time zone is +1hr.

The exchange rate is 23 rand to 1 pound, of which 500 (£20)rand will get a two people more food and booze than they can possibly manage.
A 60 rand steak will serve three hungry men...

In reply to alx:

This thread is of interest for me as I am heading out to the Alps in July to do a 4 day recci for a small group bouldering trip the following year. Basically I am after a decent summer venue as an alternative to Font. Those attending are likely to be max mid Font 6

I may not run the trip based on what you have said. I will visit this summer and will feed back my views here. I am intending to spend one day scoping out Magic Wood, then head up to Steingleitcher, Susten Pass and one other spot which I have forgotten. These are higher altitude Alpine bouldering venues. Has anyone been to SG or SP?

Hopefully there will be enough quality climbing in the low 6s for a short trip.

One tip in the guide book for MW is to take a short rope as many of the quality lower grade problems are high/ have bad landings. It mentions that there are anchors in place on those.

In reply to ckevany:

I am heading to the Alps to scope out summer bouldering venues for a school trip as an alternative to Font, which we run every year.

I will be spending a day or two at MW, then also intending to head up to Steingleitcher and Susten Pass. Basically it appears anything at lower altitude will be too hot. Anyone been to either of those? How are they for walk in, quantity sub 6C boulders, landings? Any other suggestions that will be climbable in July and within 2 hours of MW?

I am all booked to go I any case and will report back on my return .