UKC

Hi all

after a bit of help please. Have been climbing 10 or so years and still improving a little all be it slowly. Currently i'm climbing pretty well (for me), but feeling a bit cronky with a few little niggles, and noticing a bit of a lack of flexibility.

I usually climb once at the wall a week (lead routes up to 6b), and once outside (HVS/e1 ish onsight). I would like to climb more but i don't feel like my body will take it. I've had a few injuries over the years, mainly golfers elbow, which i continue to manage with eccentrics and shoulder shrug press ups, and DOMS in my forearms, but get other little niggles from time to time.

As I get older (30) I'm becoming aware that perhaps I could do with more stretches, and a better warm up before the wall. I work away a lot, have an active job (rope access), and climb at different walls so in needs to be flexible.

Please can UKC help with a daily 10min stretch routine I can add to my press ups and eccentrics? which can be carried out with no kit in a travelodge?

Also likewise, ideas on a better warmup before climbing (currently I might traverse on easy holds for a few mins before leading a route 4 grades below max (5+) and pyramidding u to 6b/6b+, or even less warm up outside). Again thinking ten to twenty mins max or i just wont find time to manage them.

Thanks in advance

rob

In reply to RM199:

My suggestion would be the sun salutation A (surya namaskara A) - you'll find loads of videos on you tube.

In reply to RM199:

Minimal equipment approach...

Powerband for pull apart and lacrosse ball for muscle release - spend 5 minutes pulling band in all different directions plus pushing overhead, then 5 minutes with the ball in pics, delts, traps. Job done.

Cheers
LD

In reply to RM199:

Don't do static stretches before climbing, only after.

Start a warm up with joint rotations (wrists, shoulders, neck, hips knees), then follow it with dynamic arm swings (NOT rotations) and dynamic kicks (to the front, side and back). Aim for about 12 reps starting at a very minimal range of motion and increase the range continually for the last rep.

For three days a week try static active stretches after your training session.

I'd recommend "Stretching Scientifically" by Thomas Kurtz.

In reply to Shani:


I do a few arm rotations, as well as swings, in my pre-run warmup. Is this a bad idea? My warmup is just what seems natural to me and seems to work (ie I made it up).

In reply to andyjohnson0:


According to Kurz, you should swing your arms backwards and forward (like in an exaggerated marching style), keeping your torso rigid. I understand he argued against the effectiveness of dynamically swinging your arms in a rotational manner compared to the method described above.

In reply to Shani:


Static stretches pre-climbing too loosen something if it's a bit tight seem to work for me. This could all be in my mind though. Any thoughts?

In reply to Donald82:

The issue with static stretch pre work is that they weaken the muscle. The whole idea of stretching is to cause micro tears in the fibres so they grow back longer. So it doesn't make sense to do this before your are about to make them contract close to maximally as it could lead to an increase chance of injury. Dynamic stretching as above is about activation, lubrication of joints and generally promoting blood flow to the area.

In reply to mark_wellin:

Hi, thanks for reply. Yes, I know the general idea of avoiding static stretching pre climb. But I was wondering if it's different for tight muscles. I guess maybe just getting the blood flow is all you want.

In reply to Donald82:

Depends why they're tight I guess! Injuries could be helped by the blood, fascia ties could be helped by rolling and or stretching (this still isn't supported by any science, but it feels great), short muscles won't be helped at all. Could be the neural activation, reminding the muscles how to function properly, opposed to constantly being under tension.
Personally I do 'static' stretches to warm up because like you they feel good for the area. But I won't be sitting in box squats for minutes, just 5 seconds to feel the release and then move on.

In reply to mark_wellin:

Cheers, v.helpful.

In reply to Donald82:

One of the problems with static stretches is principally that they neurologically 'set' your range of motion (some stuff about Golgi organs and proprioceptors). This is why you won't find anyone who wants to learn the splits doing static stretches before their workout. But it also means that you will not achieve your current full ROM before a workout. This is also why you should do dynamic stretches well within your current ROM for the first few reps, and then increase to maximum current ROM only on the last couple of reps.

Dynamic stretches are also quite vigorous (you should 'lead' your limbs rather than wildly swinging them, this is NOT ballistic stretching), so you can be sure to get blood pumping in to your muscles. Think kneading dough to soften it up....

Don't get me wrong, static passive stretches can loosen muscles up (such as relaxing in to splits), but not as much as static active stretches (putting a limb in an extended position and holding it there - which also builds strength). Above all though, isometric stretches are the best for developing flexibility.

In reply to RM199:


What you are doing is fine for the Wall.

Do your stretching in the Travellodge.

Elbow injuries often stem from bad posture and hunched shoulders. If that is an issue get a yoga block and do some stretches with that under your shoulder blades and also yoga shoulder mobilty stretches. Leg and hip stretches good if you lack mobilty for step ups. Just a couple of pointers. Google and youtube will provide the rest.

In reply to RM199:

Niall Grimes' contribution via twitter

grimerclimber: ATTENTION CLIMBERS! Remember: warming up is a sign of weakness. Doing yoga is essentially an admission of failure. Stay strong, Just say No.

https://twitter.com/grimerclimber/status/753915686242684928

In reply to Shani:

Cheers, much appreciated