In reply to John Kendall:
Hi, I'm the crag moderator. It's been about a year since I was there, but I recon I can answer your questions.
In answer to your first question: yes and no. If you're looking to spend an hour or two out climbing and have no transport from ambleside, then yes. If you've got a full day and a car, then absolutely go somewhere else. That being said, the E4 is really quite good and it in itself might be worth spending some time on.
In regard to the access: i've looked at an OS map and you're correct in saying that the old access notes on the crag profile directed people through a private field. I've now removed these from the page. Unfortunately this means that the only legal approach is through the Loughrigg fellside to the crag's rear, which probably means at least a 30 minute walk around. I'll work out the best way to do this, and add a new description to the crag profile with some grid references when I get the chance.
In regard to the potential for new routes: There is some unclimbed rock there, but the rock on the main crag is really very steep, loose and friable, and to be honest the top outs would require some serious attention and gardening to make safe. I'd say that (with maybe the exception of the Rothay Roof) the only rock worth climbing there has been climbed already.
Hope this is of help.
Mark
