UKC

Hi all,

I've been considering a new softshell jacket for a while, and more so recently as my current one seems to have inexplicably vanished into the ether. I'm looking for a stretch-woven jacket for all-round climbing use, from days on the grit to summer alpine routes. Preferably not hooded (if the weather is bad enough to need a hood I'll probably be wearing something else). It's to replace an old ME Javelin jacket which has done me great service over the past four years, but has some niggling fit issues which make wearing it over a mid layer layer frustrating.

Two jackets that I've been looking at are the OR Ferrosi and the Haglofs Lizard. I quite like the sound of the Ferrosi, but the fact that it's only available in black and 'poo-coloured' is a major downside to me. The fact that the Lizard is available in offensively bright colours is a definite plus.

Any other suggestions, or does anyone have experience with either of the options I'm looking at?

In reply to tehmarks:

I swear by my Ferrosi - the earlier version in red(!) - but recently tried on a RAB jacket on special offer at £60 in Go Outdoors called the "Caldera". I really liked it and would have bought it except as far as I could see it did exactly what the Ferrosi does - no more no less, so not worth it for me. But they do do it in a rather fetching bluey sort of colour you may like.

I couldn't find references to it anywhere else so perhaps it's a RAB one off for Go Outdoors? or another RAB model under a different name to sell cheaply? Worth a look.

Oh and depending on your size you might pick up an absolute bargain at forty odd quid for the Haglofs at Zalando.co.uk just now - I've had Marmot and TNF bargains from them in the past.

In reply to Martin Bennett:

I've spotted the Lizard for £46 at Bergfreund, and the Ferrosi for an equally impressive discount - part of the reason I'm suddenly considering a new jacket. I can find very few reviews of the Lizard though, which is slightly off-putting.

In reply to tehmarks:

I'd wear an ME Squall for that. They also do the Frontier if you want something heavier.

(As an aside, a shell needs a hood, other wise it's not a shell imo. Makes a jacket a lot more versatile and useful with no disadvantages)

In reply to tehmarks:


In black, or eye-searing blue (at £18...)

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/forclaz-600-light-man-blue-id_8355667.html

In reply to galpinos:


Me too. Love mine so much I've actually future proofed it by getting another for the cupboard. Thought I might have not liked the hood, but as long as the zip is all the way up there is no problem, and have been happy for it on quite a few belays. Now has a couple of very insignificant holes in 1 arm, but that is down to a less than careful descent at Deer Gallows and a bit of a whipper at Craig y Forwyn. Certainly not alpine, but also served well on Direct Route on Glyder Fach in some what sub- optimal conditions and has stood up fine to Dartmoor granite as well.

In reply to galpinos:

I've never had a softshell with a hood, and I've never once regretted not having a hood. I nearly always wear something under my helmet which keeps the wind at bay, and if the forecast is truly dire I have a lightweight hardshell which will be in the bag, and does have a hood. I guess it's a matter of preference; I don't see a hood as being important for what I'll be using the jacket for.

The Squall looks brilliant, we may have found a winner.

Does anyone have any actual experience of the Lizard?

In reply to tehmarks:

I've got the Viper which is the same material. Good kickabout sort of jacket. Breathable enough to happily XC ski in (a sweaty business!), not super windproof but OK, not very water resistant once the DWR has worn off. Mine must be 7 or 8 years old now so not sure if its still the same material.

They did have a stupid design flaw http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/haglofs-design-fail.html but hopefully moved past that!

I'm with galpinos - I want hoods, hugely increases the usefulness of jackets for me, whether it's ice climbing in it and stopping drips going down your neck or just to pull over your helmet while sitting on the top of Stanage or Millstone in the invariable gale at the top, while belaying your mate up.

In reply to tehmarks:

Thanks all, I think I'm going to go with the Squall (hood and all!) and at the same time treat myself to a Nano Air. The Squall looks very well designed for climbing, and I've been very happy with my current Exolite softshell.

In reply to tehmarks:


You'll be surprised how often you climb in the Nano Air over a tee shirt. It's so breathable yet stays warm. I take that and a ME squall equivalent on every cragging day and climb in either, or just the tee depending on conditions. The nano air makes for a very comfortable belay at the top of a windy crag. You'll be well sorted and well pleased with those purchases.

In reply to tehmarks:

http://scottishmountaineer.com/haglofs-lizard-jacket/