UKC

Hi,
I'm heading back up to see my family in Newcastle soon, and it's the first time I'm going back as a climber. I climbed when I was a lot younger up North, and have vague memories of my brother and his friends snubbing lead climbing in favour of trad. However, I have yet to build a rack, and break out in cold sweats at the idea of trad, is there any good crags for leading, or even just setting up a top rope as I'll only have one day to get some climbs in.

I saw Bowden Doors had some routes that had french grades, but I wasn't too sure if this was indicative of a bolted route.

In reply to rattusrattus:
There's no sport up here* and top roping is discouraged at the popular crags owing to the soft rock being easily damaged. This doesn't seem to discourage people though, even where there are signs up at the crag. If I were you I'd go bouldering.

*The delights of Houghton Churchyard could be yours though.


edit: those "french grades" are bouldering grades.

In reply to rattusrattus:

Also, Trad is lead climbing. 90% of the outdoor lead climbing in the UK is trad.

In reply to Lemony:

Sorry, slip of the fingers with the lead/sport mistake. Guess this is a good time to start leading trad. Thanks for the tips anyway!

In reply to rattusrattus:

The county's arguably not the best place to learn to lead trad, especially if you're a nervous leader - the grades are sometimes punchy*, the rock's unusual, protection's often scarce or illusory and it's easy to damage routes through inexperience or accident. Not to put you off but proceed with caution.

*See the thread that's been rumbling on recently

In reply to rattusrattus:

the grades you were seeing are font boulder problem grades