UKC

Toying with the idea of a visit to North Quarry on Sunday, particularly interested in the long Sports routes at modest grades such as Long in the Tooth (5a). Anyone know what aspect this part of the quarry has? Any chance of sun? Anyone know if the routes are likely to be dry, or clean? Don't mind a bit of veg/gardening, but not after a jungle clearance mission on this occasion.
Many Thanks for any pointers,

Ivan

In reply to The Ivanator:

The main slab ( Journey Mans Wall etc) faces east/north east and gets sun early morning during the summer (maybe still a bit now). The slab with the three sports routes on faces north. I would have thought they should be ok as we have been getting the easterlies and should still be clean. They are quite good.

In reply to Long Pinky:

Thanks, good info. Will run it by my partner and see if he's tempted!

In reply to The Ivanator:

And as ever, here more so- remember that hand holds do snap off.

In reply to zimpara:

Don't you just love an exfoliating quarry ...what dreams are made of.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Only because no-one climbs there.

A bit of traffic would sort it but unfortunately everyone goes to the same old honeypots.

In reply to Long Pinky:

Looks like we are headed that way tomorrow, a few plants and bits of looseness is not gonna scare me off! Any tips on parking and approach? Cheers.

In reply to The Ivanator:

Theres a layby right next to it and then a 1 minute walk

In reply to Long Pinky:

Convenience choss, I like it!

In reply to The Ivanator:

Yep

In reply to The Ivanator:

Hi Ivan. I'll be interested to see how you get on. North Quarry's been on and off my radar for some years now, but for one reason or another never yet been there. Main deterrent for me has been the N-facing aspect, I suppose, plus the slightly complicated road approach (relative to its proximity to the motorway). But if/when you report back that conditions were good, and that you found some worthwhile climbing, I might put it on my Autumn list. Journeyman's Wall .... I've been meaning to have a crack at that for ages.

In reply to bpmclimb:
FCQ is north facing too and is even further from the motorway!

Actually, North quarry is mostly east facing and gets loads of sun in the summer mornings. I cleaned and shunted two thirds of Journey Man's Wall a couple of years ago, the rest will need cleaning. I also cleaned and climbed two routes on the smaller right wall, both were very good but would have been horrendous to onsight. This crag needs some pre cleaning on it then the routes will be very enjoyable, easily as good as FCQ. The 3 sports routes should still be in onsightable condition.

.....and dont be put off by the terrible pic in the database, that was taken midwinter obviously after a wet spell.

In reply to bpmclimb:

Stop repeatedly shunting and polishing Glacial Point and get yer arse down there.

In reply to Fiend:

Hi.

I led GP clean onsight, years ago. Subsequently shunted it a few times (mostly because I was undecided about the grade/line for the guidebook, and wanted to get it just right). For those ascents, my boots were always squeaky clean, and no foot placement slipped once, even slightly, so I very much doubt I've been a significant contributor to any polish.

By the way, I considered your update, but felt I had to reject it. Sorry about that, but the main entry for a route in a database isn't really the place for airing personal preferences/gripes about modes of ascent. That's what the personal logbook notes are for (if you feel you really must).

Brian

In reply to bpmclimb:
Went to North Quarry today and did the 3 long Sports lines on the back wall. Routes were bone dry and no significant loose rock if the bolt lines were followed closely. The right wall (Journeyman's I presume) is an impressive expanse of Rock and as suggested above is currently much cleaner than the photo in the database - no big slimy green streak at all. I suspect a little light gardening on abseil would emancipate any of the routes there.
Sports stuff was pleasant, but all 3 lines seemed pretty mild for their given grades. The two F4s are shorter than stated too, we lowered off both on 60s with something to spare. The F5 Long in the Tooth (5a) is certainly the pick of the bunch (worth a star) and is close to the 40m length given in the database, I led on 60m halves, brought up my partner, lowered him back down then abseiled myself.
Also popped across to the nearby The Perch Quarry and did a couple of routes there, More To Share (6a+) was definitely the highlight of the day, an excellent route.

In reply to The Ivanator:

I think North Quarry is a good, and under-rated crag. Especially good on a boiling hot summer day, when it is cool and in the shade. I have at one time or other led all the routes up to E4 there, most recently Journey Man's Wall, the E3, last summer. It has scale, at 40m, and was quite scary and run out at the top, I didn't think it needed cleaning though, some great moves on sharp small finger holds. And couldn't be easier, for parking and one minute walk in. Some fun shorter sport routes over to the right. Good crag.

In reply to HappyTrundler:

Journey man's wall didn't need cleaning because I cleaned it two years ago, it was in a terrible state then.

In reply to Long Pinky:
Just to add to my summary above, a word of appreciation for the cleaning and bolting at both North and Perch quarries, all the routes we did were superbly protected with thoughtfully placed bolts - nice work.

In reply to The Ivanator:


That'll be Gordon J's work

In reply to The Ivanator:

We followed in your footsteps today, and excellent crag combination in the sun.

In reply to Long Pinky:

Plus others previously