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I decided I want a nice camera for taking out adventuring, mostly climbing and mountain days. I still want nice quality photos, so while a dslr seems too bulky a CSC camera seems like a perfect compromise? I'm floating between a Sony a6000 and Fuji xt10
Question is: does anyone actually take either of these cameras climbing? Are they small enough to fit in a jacket pocket or are you always going to need pack? Is it a practical choice for the real world or I should I get a compact digital camera?
Appreciate any advice
Question is: does anyone actually take either of these cameras climbing? Are they small enough to fit in a jacket pocket or are you always going to need pack? Is it a practical choice for the real world or I should I get a compact digital camera?
Appreciate any advice
In reply to Kemics:
Yep, an Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II with a 9-18 f4-5.6 lens. I stuff it down my jacket or have a small case clipped to my harness. Works fine and worth the minimal size inconvenience for the quality it returns.
Si
Yep, an Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II with a 9-18 f4-5.6 lens. I stuff it down my jacket or have a small case clipped to my harness. Works fine and worth the minimal size inconvenience for the quality it returns.
Si
Post edited at 12:03
In reply to Kemics:
I climb and ski with a Sony a6000. For skiing it stuffs into a softshell pocket. For climbing I often have it over my shoulder on the sling and clip it to the haul loop on the harness rear. I never really notice it's there except when in a chimney/layback.
On Amazon there is a very nice tight, cheap neoprene cover which makes a great snug case for it.
The best camera is the one in your hand
I climb and ski with a Sony a6000. For skiing it stuffs into a softshell pocket. For climbing I often have it over my shoulder on the sling and clip it to the haul loop on the harness rear. I never really notice it's there except when in a chimney/layback.
On Amazon there is a very nice tight, cheap neoprene cover which makes a great snug case for it.
The best camera is the one in your hand
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In reply to Kemics:
OMD E-M5 mkI with 17mm F1.8 or 7.5mm fisheye goes on via Ferratas with me. Whichever lens I'm not using goes in the lid of the sack or jacket pocket. If I didn't have the massive lens hood on the 17mm it would fit in the map pocket of my jacket, as it is it fits in the inside pocket.
Used to take a Lumix FT1 in my pocket, but its inability to do shallow DoF pushed me to a proper camera. It is an excellent outdoor camera apart from that - no external moving parts, good zoom range and compact.
OMD E-M5 mkI with 17mm F1.8 or 7.5mm fisheye goes on via Ferratas with me. Whichever lens I'm not using goes in the lid of the sack or jacket pocket. If I didn't have the massive lens hood on the 17mm it would fit in the map pocket of my jacket, as it is it fits in the inside pocket.
Used to take a Lumix FT1 in my pocket, but its inability to do shallow DoF pushed me to a proper camera. It is an excellent outdoor camera apart from that - no external moving parts, good zoom range and compact.
Post edited at 12:17
In reply to Kemics:
A pancake prime lens will really help. The addition of a zoom lens will make the whole package considerably more bulky.
A pancake prime lens will really help. The addition of a zoom lens will make the whole package considerably more bulky.
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In reply to Only a hill:
that's a great suggestion thanks. Im a bit of newb so not familiar with pancake lenses but they seem like a great option. Can you still zoom a bit, or are you left with a single range?
I think a sony A6000 with a pancake lens should fit unobtrusively enough in a jacket chest pocket.
that's a great suggestion thanks. Im a bit of newb so not familiar with pancake lenses but they seem like a great option. Can you still zoom a bit, or are you left with a single range?
I think a sony A6000 with a pancake lens should fit unobtrusively enough in a jacket chest pocket.
In reply to Alpenglow:
i also would be interested to know
> Which lenses do you mostly use for climbing?
i also would be interested to know
In reply to Kemics:
The OMD E-M10 with the kit pancake are pretty compact and give you 14-42,
https://www.olympus.co.uk/site/en/c/Cameras/om_d_system_cameras/om_d/e_m10/...
otherwise something like the 20mm Panasonic if you want to go compact prime.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Panasonic-Lumix-20mm-Pancake-Lens-x/dp/B002PIIQGU
The OMD E-M10 with the kit pancake are pretty compact and give you 14-42,
https://www.olympus.co.uk/site/en/c/Cameras/om_d_system_cameras/om_d/e_m10/...
otherwise something like the 20mm Panasonic if you want to go compact prime.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Panasonic-Lumix-20mm-Pancake-Lens-x/dp/B002PIIQGU
In reply to Kemics:
I've got a couple of Panasonic micro4/3 cameras including the absolutely tiny GM5. It a strong contender for one of the smallest CSC's ever and almost certainly the smallest with a viewfinder. With it's tiny but very sharp collapsing 12-32mm zoom its certainly small enough to put in a jacket pocket, although I usually use a belt pouch. Image quality is pretty much the same as any other M4/3. I've seen some people complain that its small size makes the abundance of controls quite fiddly, but I'm 6'2" with hands like shovels and find it fine. Having said all that I still find it a bit awkward to use one handed. There's the lens cap to remove and then the lens needs to be twisted to extend and then turned to zoom. Guess I could use the 20mm f1.7 pancake which I've also got and rely on a UV filter to protect the lens, but haven't tried that yet. Usually if I think I may need use the camera one handed I just take a canon G16. Image quality is not so good but you can open the lens hood and extend the lens by pressing a button which makes it a bit easier to use half way up a route. If I'm walking, or doing something where there's the opportunity to use two hands I always take the GM5.
Lee
I've got a couple of Panasonic micro4/3 cameras including the absolutely tiny GM5. It a strong contender for one of the smallest CSC's ever and almost certainly the smallest with a viewfinder. With it's tiny but very sharp collapsing 12-32mm zoom its certainly small enough to put in a jacket pocket, although I usually use a belt pouch. Image quality is pretty much the same as any other M4/3. I've seen some people complain that its small size makes the abundance of controls quite fiddly, but I'm 6'2" with hands like shovels and find it fine. Having said all that I still find it a bit awkward to use one handed. There's the lens cap to remove and then the lens needs to be twisted to extend and then turned to zoom. Guess I could use the 20mm f1.7 pancake which I've also got and rely on a UV filter to protect the lens, but haven't tried that yet. Usually if I think I may need use the camera one handed I just take a canon G16. Image quality is not so good but you can open the lens hood and extend the lens by pressing a button which makes it a bit easier to use half way up a route. If I'm walking, or doing something where there's the opportunity to use two hands I always take the GM5.
Lee
In reply to Kemics:
I have used a Panasonic GX1 (soon to be for sale if anyone's interested) with a power zoom 14-42 kit lens extensively whilst climbing, both summer and winter. It looks comparable in size to the Fuji xt10. I found, even with the compact lens, it would probably be a bit too bulky to keep in a jacket pocket for actual climbing (although fine for casual use). However, it fits perfectly in a Lowepro Dashpoint 20 case which you can easily strap to your harness or on some cord / sling round you shoulder. I've found the latter works well as it frees up your harness and the camera can be pulled round the back, out of the way, when climbing.
I have since started using the Panasonic GM5 which is tiny in comparison to the GX1 (which is itself pretty compact) and pretty much spot on for climbing. Whereas I would occasionally leave the GX1 on harder routes, I've never noticed the GM5 when climbing. It's also a very good camera as far as I can tell - for my use anyway.
I have used a Panasonic GX1 (soon to be for sale if anyone's interested) with a power zoom 14-42 kit lens extensively whilst climbing, both summer and winter. It looks comparable in size to the Fuji xt10. I found, even with the compact lens, it would probably be a bit too bulky to keep in a jacket pocket for actual climbing (although fine for casual use). However, it fits perfectly in a Lowepro Dashpoint 20 case which you can easily strap to your harness or on some cord / sling round you shoulder. I've found the latter works well as it frees up your harness and the camera can be pulled round the back, out of the way, when climbing.
I have since started using the Panasonic GM5 which is tiny in comparison to the GX1 (which is itself pretty compact) and pretty much spot on for climbing. Whereas I would occasionally leave the GX1 on harder routes, I've never noticed the GM5 when climbing. It's also a very good camera as far as I can tell - for my use anyway.
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In reply to Alpenglow:
Iam using Sony RX 100 mkIII ...very good and very small always in jacket pocket on on harness.
Iam using Sony RX 100 mkIII ...very good and very small always in jacket pocket on on harness.
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In reply to Kemics:
Any Fuji CSC is good. Such fantastic quality cameras and results. I had an X A-1 which gave very impressive shots in a relatively small package. If you use the excellent XF 35mm F2 or the even smaller XF 27mm (just 78g) lens then that brings the weight and bulk down further.
Any Fuji CSC is good. Such fantastic quality cameras and results. I had an X A-1 which gave very impressive shots in a relatively small package. If you use the excellent XF 35mm F2 or the even smaller XF 27mm (just 78g) lens then that brings the weight and bulk down further.
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In reply to Kemics:
I occasionally climb with my NEX-6 (basically the old A6000) on my harness in the tight neoprene cover mentioned above. Wouldn't want to do it all the time, but it's not bad with the kit zoom on it, which is a good lens.
For example: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=240973
I occasionally climb with my NEX-6 (basically the old A6000) on my harness in the tight neoprene cover mentioned above. Wouldn't want to do it all the time, but it's not bad with the kit zoom on it, which is a good lens.
For example: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=240973
In reply to Kemics:
This could be a good option: http://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/love-sweet-little-fujifilm-xf-35mm-f2-lens/
I was recently looking to replace my compact Canon S110 and thought long and hard about the CSC option, deciding in the end that, given I felt I couldn't sacrifice the option of doing everything from macro to wide angle, the Panasonic LX100 was the way to go: a CSC with zoom lens was just going to be a bit heavy and bulky for climbing. I've only had the LX100 for a couple of months but have been really impressed so far. And can confirm that completely one-handed operation while wearing winter belay gloves is decent!
This could be a good option: http://danbaileyphoto.com/blog/love-sweet-little-fujifilm-xf-35mm-f2-lens/
I was recently looking to replace my compact Canon S110 and thought long and hard about the CSC option, deciding in the end that, given I felt I couldn't sacrifice the option of doing everything from macro to wide angle, the Panasonic LX100 was the way to go: a CSC with zoom lens was just going to be a bit heavy and bulky for climbing. I've only had the LX100 for a couple of months but have been really impressed so far. And can confirm that completely one-handed operation while wearing winter belay gloves is decent!
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In reply to Solaris:
He's referring to my link to Dan Bailey's in-depth review of the lens - see above.
He's referring to my link to Dan Bailey's in-depth review of the lens - see above.
In reply to Tricadam:
Thanks - I read the Dan Bailey report, and I was interested to hear Alex's own view.
Thanks - I read the Dan Bailey report, and I was interested to hear Alex's own view.
In reply to Kemics:
XT10 owner here. Love it. Climb with it slung over my shoulder, usually with the 18-55 f2.8 of the 27 2.8 pancake on it.
Hills days usually involve the 18-135. The 56 1.4 is my fave lens, albeit not one for climbing but it's a lovely lens.
The only trip I didn't take it on was a ski exped where I used a Sony RX100 III (lots of photos on here with it). AF did struggle with skiing in deep powder with subject emerging for fractions of a second. Canon 5d3 kept up with them just fine but that's a serious and heavy camera to carry all day.
XT10 owner here. Love it. Climb with it slung over my shoulder, usually with the 18-55 f2.8 of the 27 2.8 pancake on it.
Hills days usually involve the 18-135. The 56 1.4 is my fave lens, albeit not one for climbing but it's a lovely lens.
The only trip I didn't take it on was a ski exped where I used a Sony RX100 III (lots of photos on here with it). AF did struggle with skiing in deep powder with subject emerging for fractions of a second. Canon 5d3 kept up with them just fine but that's a serious and heavy camera to carry all day.
In reply to Kemics:
The lens the camera has on will make a huge difference. I've got a Panasonic G3. With a pancake lens on it really is a true pocket camera, similar to many compacts out there. But with a fast telephoto zoom it's more like a consumer dSLR.
With a small lens it's very light and small. But you lose on image quality, lens speed and perhaps most importantly (for climbing) the ability to zoom in/out.
The nice thing with CSCs is you don't have to choose. You can have several lenses for different priorities, a small one when you want to go light and a heftier one where getting a good shot is a higher priority.
> Are they small enough to fit in a jacket pocket or are you always going to need pack?
The lens the camera has on will make a huge difference. I've got a Panasonic G3. With a pancake lens on it really is a true pocket camera, similar to many compacts out there. But with a fast telephoto zoom it's more like a consumer dSLR.
With a small lens it's very light and small. But you lose on image quality, lens speed and perhaps most importantly (for climbing) the ability to zoom in/out.
The nice thing with CSCs is you don't have to choose. You can have several lenses for different priorities, a small one when you want to go light and a heftier one where getting a good shot is a higher priority.
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In reply to Kemics:
For me, Fuji XT1 is too heavy and bulky to climb seriously with, even with the tiny 27mm lens on.
Great camera though. 18-135mm or 16mm are most often used lenses in the outdoors.
For climbing I stick with my Lumix FT3, clipped on to a rucksack shoulder strap.
For me, Fuji XT1 is too heavy and bulky to climb seriously with, even with the tiny 27mm lens on.
Great camera though. 18-135mm or 16mm are most often used lenses in the outdoors.
For climbing I stick with my Lumix FT3, clipped on to a rucksack shoulder strap.
Post edited at 19:22
In reply to Solaris:
Ah! Sorry to have misunderstood you. Do you have one of the Fujis? How do you find it? Am still tempted longer-term.
> Thanks - I read the Dan Bailey report, and I was interested to hear Alex's own view.
Ah! Sorry to have misunderstood you. Do you have one of the Fujis? How do you find it? Am still tempted longer-term.
In reply to fairweatherclimber:
Yes, I can't imagine doing technical climbing with my X-T10 over my shoulder or anywhere else (I have a compact for that). Quite happy to scramble and walk with it over a shoulder though, even with a heavy lens on it.
> For me, Fuji XT1 is too heavy and bulky to climb seriously with, even with the tiny 27mm lens on.
Yes, I can't imagine doing technical climbing with my X-T10 over my shoulder or anywhere else (I have a compact for that). Quite happy to scramble and walk with it over a shoulder though, even with a heavy lens on it.
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In reply to Kemics:
I've got an a6000, it is a great camera but I think it is a bit big for climbing anything tricky. I tend to rely on my phone for photos on stuff anywhere near my limit.
I've got an a6000, it is a great camera but I think it is a bit big for climbing anything tricky. I tend to rely on my phone for photos on stuff anywhere near my limit.
In reply to Tricadam:
No probs.
I'm still in the Fuji CSC stone-age: I've got an X-E1 with the XF 18-55 kit zoom. I've found it a really good combination: the lens is excellent, and with the body it has enabled me to take photos that I wouldn't have been able to otherwise. The body feels great in the hand, but I can understand why some on here have upgraded to X-T1s or X-T10s, not just for the ease of manual control but also for the better sensor.
I'm not an action photographer so the slow autofocus hasn't been too much of a problem. (Though I've managed to get some decent rallying shots just by mashing the shutter at 6fps.) I've also been really pleasantly surprised at the photos I've been able to take of people indoors in the evening, hand-held, no flash: put that down to the lens and the image stabilisation.
I have usually shot raw images in the past, but the one (slight) downside of the Fuji system for me is that Lightroom is a bit of a pain to get to work well with its raw images. That said, the JPEGs are really good and take a reasonable amount of Lightroom treatment.
I really love my Fuji, but haven't used it much on proper climbs: I now have an RX100 2 for that. So, given that pairing, because overall weight/bulk is not so significant as when I got the X-E1, I am now thinking about getting a new Fuji body and maybe a prime or two and another, longer zoom. (Hence my question to Alex.)
No probs.
I'm still in the Fuji CSC stone-age: I've got an X-E1 with the XF 18-55 kit zoom. I've found it a really good combination: the lens is excellent, and with the body it has enabled me to take photos that I wouldn't have been able to otherwise. The body feels great in the hand, but I can understand why some on here have upgraded to X-T1s or X-T10s, not just for the ease of manual control but also for the better sensor.
I'm not an action photographer so the slow autofocus hasn't been too much of a problem. (Though I've managed to get some decent rallying shots just by mashing the shutter at 6fps.) I've also been really pleasantly surprised at the photos I've been able to take of people indoors in the evening, hand-held, no flash: put that down to the lens and the image stabilisation.
I have usually shot raw images in the past, but the one (slight) downside of the Fuji system for me is that Lightroom is a bit of a pain to get to work well with its raw images. That said, the JPEGs are really good and take a reasonable amount of Lightroom treatment.
I really love my Fuji, but haven't used it much on proper climbs: I now have an RX100 2 for that. So, given that pairing, because overall weight/bulk is not so significant as when I got the X-E1, I am now thinking about getting a new Fuji body and maybe a prime or two and another, longer zoom. (Hence my question to Alex.)
In reply to Kemics:
Sorry, I didn't look back at this thread.
I use the lens it came with - 16-50mm.
You probably know more about cameras than me, so your best bet is to google for the specs of it!
Sorry, I didn't look back at this thread.
I use the lens it came with - 16-50mm.
You probably know more about cameras than me, so your best bet is to google for the specs of it!
In reply to Solaris:
Out of curiosity, what is the process for getting Lightroom to play nicely with Fuji RAW images? I was very tempted to trade in my D3200 for an X-T10 or X-T1 earlier this year based on a topic on here, and a bit of Googling suggested that because the in-camera lens correction and processing is so good, it's very difficult to get comparable images out of Lightroom. It put me off slightly.
Out of curiosity, what is the process for getting Lightroom to play nicely with Fuji RAW images? I was very tempted to trade in my D3200 for an X-T10 or X-T1 earlier this year based on a topic on here, and a bit of Googling suggested that because the in-camera lens correction and processing is so good, it's very difficult to get comparable images out of Lightroom. It put me off slightly.
In reply to Alpenglow:
I was picking between those two just a month or so ago. In the nutshell A6k is better, but more expensive.
Sony has bigger sensor and faster more accurate AF.
Sony has 24MPixels, Oly only 16MPixels.
Oly has bigger choice of lenses.
Oly lenses are smaller.
Oly has stabilisation in the body. Sony in lenses.
I went with Sony because I shoot a lot of my friends portraits in bad light as well as climbs. If you will be shooting only in bright sunlight (it is climbing) with primes difference of end JPG will be not visible.
My choice of lenses is Sony 10-18mm F4.0 for climbing.
On hard or wet climbs I carry Olympus TG-3 pocket camera.
Btw Sony has cashback for glass -> https://www.sony.co.uk/cashback/digitalimaging
Oly has cashback for cameras and few newest lenses -> http://olympus-eu.sales-promotions.com
> What is everyone's opinion on the Sony A6000 vs the Olympus EM-10 II?
I was picking between those two just a month or so ago. In the nutshell A6k is better, but more expensive.
Sony has bigger sensor and faster more accurate AF.
Sony has 24MPixels, Oly only 16MPixels.
Oly has bigger choice of lenses.
Oly lenses are smaller.
Oly has stabilisation in the body. Sony in lenses.
I went with Sony because I shoot a lot of my friends portraits in bad light as well as climbs. If you will be shooting only in bright sunlight (it is climbing) with primes difference of end JPG will be not visible.
My choice of lenses is Sony 10-18mm F4.0 for climbing.
On hard or wet climbs I carry Olympus TG-3 pocket camera.
Btw Sony has cashback for glass -> https://www.sony.co.uk/cashback/digitalimaging
Oly has cashback for cameras and few newest lenses -> http://olympus-eu.sales-promotions.com
In reply to tehmarks:
I use Lightroom for Fuji images. It works just fine, and I'm always able to get better results from processing raws in Lightroom than I am for an out-of-camera JPEG. This is highly subjective though (and Fuji's JPEGs are, I think, overrated anyway).
I use Lightroom for Fuji images. It works just fine, and I'm always able to get better results from processing raws in Lightroom than I am for an out-of-camera JPEG. This is highly subjective though (and Fuji's JPEGs are, I think, overrated anyway).
Post edited at 11:09
In reply to Solaris:
My review of the lens here: http://www.alexroddie.com/2016/11/fujinon-xf35mm-f2-review-lens-fujifilm.ht...
My review of the lens here: http://www.alexroddie.com/2016/11/fujinon-xf35mm-f2-review-lens-fujifilm.ht...
In reply to tehmarks:
Well, you've got two different replies on here, so take what I say with a pinch of salt!
I - along with others, but perhaps not Only a Hill (Alex) - have found sharpening and noise reduction tricky on Fuji raw images, but maybe I've just not tried hard enough. I think I understand what Alex means about Fuji jpegs being over-rated, but I'm content with what I get. I also think that some of the film simulations are nasty - especially Velvia, which isn't a touch on Velvia transparency film. I suppose it depends on how long you are prepared to take learning to get the best out of Fuji raws, but I wouldn't let that put me off buying a(n otherwise) brilliant camera.
There's quite a few people on here, including pros, who use Fujis, so it might be worth starting a thread on your question and see what you get.
Well, you've got two different replies on here, so take what I say with a pinch of salt!
I - along with others, but perhaps not Only a Hill (Alex) - have found sharpening and noise reduction tricky on Fuji raw images, but maybe I've just not tried hard enough. I think I understand what Alex means about Fuji jpegs being over-rated, but I'm content with what I get. I also think that some of the film simulations are nasty - especially Velvia, which isn't a touch on Velvia transparency film. I suppose it depends on how long you are prepared to take learning to get the best out of Fuji raws, but I wouldn't let that put me off buying a(n otherwise) brilliant camera.
There's quite a few people on here, including pros, who use Fujis, so it might be worth starting a thread on your question and see what you get.
In reply to Only a hill:
Thanks, Alex. A helpful write up - and of the X-E1, too, though I am bit shocked at what you got your camera + 18-55mm lens for. Nice blog.
Thanks, Alex. A helpful write up - and of the X-E1, too, though I am bit shocked at what you got your camera + 18-55mm lens for. Nice blog.
In reply to Solaris:
Glad you found my piece helpful! And yep, that X-E1 bundle was a steal. Still a great camera, even though I now use the X-T1 most of the time.
What I really meant by my throwaway 'Fuji JPEGs are overrated' comment is that I think their JPEGs are fine – but not, perhaps, worthy of the lavish praise heaped upon them in some corners of the internet. I've read blog posts and articles suggesting that Fuji JPEGs are just *so good* that you'll never need to touch raw files again. This is subjective, of course, and the JPEGs are just fine for many uses, but I don't believe they are in another class compared to other manufacturers' JPEGs. For example, comparing my Fuji JPEGs with images taken at the same spot on the same day with my brother's Nikon gear, I can see no difference whatsoever. YMMV, but sometimes I think Fuji is placed on too high a pedestal in this department.
As for Lightroom, I did have to play around with settings before I got results I was satisfied with, especially in the Detail pane. The trick for sharpening X-Trans raw files seems to be to use a low value for sharpening amount (I generally use 25) but a very high value for sharpening detail (usually 80-100). This may seem the wrong way round but I've seen several people saying it works far better for sharpening Fuji files, and I agree – for me, this always results in sharper and better-looking images than straight out of camera. Again, YMMV!
Glad you found my piece helpful! And yep, that X-E1 bundle was a steal. Still a great camera, even though I now use the X-T1 most of the time.
What I really meant by my throwaway 'Fuji JPEGs are overrated' comment is that I think their JPEGs are fine – but not, perhaps, worthy of the lavish praise heaped upon them in some corners of the internet. I've read blog posts and articles suggesting that Fuji JPEGs are just *so good* that you'll never need to touch raw files again. This is subjective, of course, and the JPEGs are just fine for many uses, but I don't believe they are in another class compared to other manufacturers' JPEGs. For example, comparing my Fuji JPEGs with images taken at the same spot on the same day with my brother's Nikon gear, I can see no difference whatsoever. YMMV, but sometimes I think Fuji is placed on too high a pedestal in this department.
As for Lightroom, I did have to play around with settings before I got results I was satisfied with, especially in the Detail pane. The trick for sharpening X-Trans raw files seems to be to use a low value for sharpening amount (I generally use 25) but a very high value for sharpening detail (usually 80-100). This may seem the wrong way round but I've seen several people saying it works far better for sharpening Fuji files, and I agree – for me, this always results in sharper and better-looking images than straight out of camera. Again, YMMV!
In reply to Only a hill:
Cheers, Alex.
Like you, I've seen discussion of sharpening as you describe; unlike you, I haven't tried it. Obviously I should.
In other news, my wife said today that she wouldn't mind me getting a new camera (ie X - T1/10) so long as I sell some books. Now there's a tricky dilemma. Maybe we should just buy a bigger house!
Cheers, Alex.
Like you, I've seen discussion of sharpening as you describe; unlike you, I haven't tried it. Obviously I should.
In other news, my wife said today that she wouldn't mind me getting a new camera (ie X - T1/10) so long as I sell some books. Now there's a tricky dilemma. Maybe we should just buy a bigger house!
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In reply to Kemics:
I've never used either of those camera models, so I can't comment on those, but if you're happy to pay the little extra for a CSC over a compact then I would say yes it's worth it. I use a Samsung nx1 for my main photo stuff these days, but when on multi-pitch routes and mountain days I tend to take my old Samsung nx20. slightly lower quality, but still decent and small enough to fit in just about any pocket!
With regards to lenses if being small and lightweight is what you're after you cant go wrong with a prime pancake lens (I go with a 16mm with my nx20). Some can be a little prone to distortion and of course you don't have the option of any kind of range, but if you go for a zoom lens (even a small one) it's going to be bigger and bulkier, and you may be more likely to end up leaving it behind and not bothering.
On the other hand... there are some pretty decent compacts out there these days! :p
I've never used either of those camera models, so I can't comment on those, but if you're happy to pay the little extra for a CSC over a compact then I would say yes it's worth it. I use a Samsung nx1 for my main photo stuff these days, but when on multi-pitch routes and mountain days I tend to take my old Samsung nx20. slightly lower quality, but still decent and small enough to fit in just about any pocket!
With regards to lenses if being small and lightweight is what you're after you cant go wrong with a prime pancake lens (I go with a 16mm with my nx20). Some can be a little prone to distortion and of course you don't have the option of any kind of range, but if you go for a zoom lens (even a small one) it's going to be bigger and bulkier, and you may be more likely to end up leaving it behind and not bothering.
On the other hand... there are some pretty decent compacts out there these days! :p
In reply to Kemics:
I got an email/newsletter from a camera shop the other day and there was an ad saying the Fuji double cashback offer which they did for Black Friday is being repeated on boxing day.
So don't buy the XT10 before then if that's what you decide to go for. There is an £80 trade in bonus offer as well (until 31/12) I am assuming you cannot use both at the same time though?
I got a Sony Nex 5 when they first came out and although I liked it, I found the lens choice a bit limited and some of the lenses a bit big. Now own an EM10 (original model) and like that a lot - it feels more 'fun' to use than the Nex, more physical controls etc. Also has a decent choice of good lenses including some at fairly low prices- Sigma 19mm and 30mm for example (£120) as well as some very compact lenses like the 20mm Panasonic , 12-32 Panasonic, 35-100 Panasonic and the Olympus 9-18. (I have the latter lens and the 20mm pancake). I find the camera much easier to use with the optional extra grip. Olympus EM10 mkii is good value at the moment with the cashback as the price has dropped since launch with it being out for a while.
Fuji cameras look great, but again some of the lenses are quite large relative to the smaller bodies and prices quite high too. The 27mm f2.8 pancake looks like a similar lens to the Panasonic 20mm on m43 and is fairly inexpensive. The 16-50 kit is supposed to be pretty decent too for a kit lens and a bit wider than the usual 18-55.
RX100 if you want something really compact and don't want to change lenses, does decent video clips too (I have the original RX100 model, but would go for the mkii if I was buying again as I prefer the tilty screens).
Lots of good cameras around really - just depends what your priorities are (and budget) but if you want something that fits in a jacket pocket then I would say Sony a6000 / Fuji xt10 / Olympus em5ii/Em10ii will all only really fit in with a pancake lens on and even then you will certainly notice they are there.
I got an email/newsletter from a camera shop the other day and there was an ad saying the Fuji double cashback offer which they did for Black Friday is being repeated on boxing day.
So don't buy the XT10 before then if that's what you decide to go for. There is an £80 trade in bonus offer as well (until 31/12) I am assuming you cannot use both at the same time though?
I got a Sony Nex 5 when they first came out and although I liked it, I found the lens choice a bit limited and some of the lenses a bit big. Now own an EM10 (original model) and like that a lot - it feels more 'fun' to use than the Nex, more physical controls etc. Also has a decent choice of good lenses including some at fairly low prices- Sigma 19mm and 30mm for example (£120) as well as some very compact lenses like the 20mm Panasonic , 12-32 Panasonic, 35-100 Panasonic and the Olympus 9-18. (I have the latter lens and the 20mm pancake). I find the camera much easier to use with the optional extra grip. Olympus EM10 mkii is good value at the moment with the cashback as the price has dropped since launch with it being out for a while.
Fuji cameras look great, but again some of the lenses are quite large relative to the smaller bodies and prices quite high too. The 27mm f2.8 pancake looks like a similar lens to the Panasonic 20mm on m43 and is fairly inexpensive. The 16-50 kit is supposed to be pretty decent too for a kit lens and a bit wider than the usual 18-55.
RX100 if you want something really compact and don't want to change lenses, does decent video clips too (I have the original RX100 model, but would go for the mkii if I was buying again as I prefer the tilty screens).
Lots of good cameras around really - just depends what your priorities are (and budget) but if you want something that fits in a jacket pocket then I would say Sony a6000 / Fuji xt10 / Olympus em5ii/Em10ii will all only really fit in with a pancake lens on and even then you will certainly notice they are there.
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