UKC

Most reliable wales venue?

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 glaramara 29 Dec 2016
Is there any opinion on generally the most reliable winter venue in north wales? Trinity face on Snowdon would be a guess looking at the guide book? Good guess or well off the mark?

 Sophie G. 29 Dec 2016
In reply to glaramara:
I'm betting nothing in N Wales counts as reliable in absolute terms. Even more than the Lakes it has the problem of being surrounded by water and open to warm south-westerlies. But if I was guessing I'd guess N sides of the Carneddau and Glyderau, because both have Snowdon to the SW of them, and they're nearly as high.
Post edited at 16:55
In reply to glaramara:
Reliable in Wales would be a stretch indeed! Sophie G is right, your best bet I'd imagine would be Clogwyn Du in Cwm Cneifion given its elevation and aspect?
Post edited at 17:05
In reply to glaramara:

It's not really a valid concept.

The higher areas on Snowdon / Crib y ddysgl, and the higher areas of Ogwen and Cwm Lloer remain snowy longer than other areas but none are in any way reliable - it's all about the prevailing weather conditions at the time.

We had winter conditions, with fairly good snow cover (some skiing) and some winter routes in condition a few weeks ago but since then the snow has all gone and it's been nearer spring weather and conditions, till the last few days, when it's turned cold but very dry.
 climber34neil 29 Dec 2016
In reply to glaramara:

Does white goods count?
 CurlyStevo 29 Dec 2016
In reply to glaramara:

devils kitchen is worth keeping in mind as it comes it to good nick after about 5-7 days of cold weather and is a great Venue when in. It's not that high, but it doesn't much rely on frozen turf or neve and the water feeding it comes from some pretty high hills by north wales standard so it's already cold(er)
 Misha 29 Dec 2016
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Usually a bit longer for most routes. Idwal Stream is usually the first and can be in after about a week of sub zero at 500m as you say.
 CurlyStevo 29 Dec 2016
In reply to Misha:
I've climbed there in less than a week of cold weather before now. As you say idwal stream is often the first although the curtain often forms fast and a couple of the other routes. Numerous times I've climbed there little else has as good conditions at the grade I climb IV/V ish and the window has been pretty short ( 2 days or so)
Post edited at 19:56
 Misha 29 Dec 2016
In reply to glaramara:
Clogwyn Ddu and Cwm Cneifion due to the height. Mostly mixed at VI and above on Clogwyn Ddu itself but some easier icy routes on the flanks. On the opposite side of Cwm Cneifion icy dribbles form pretty quickly.

The Trinity Face routes start lower I think and the gullies there need freeze thaw to come in, i.e. not just cold and snow. There are some mixed routes there which would come in quicker
 philhilo 29 Dec 2016
In reply to glaramara:

Clogwyn Ddu without a doubt. Mixed routes quite quickly and the snow gullies after a reasonable dump of snow. Golden Girl Ali on the opposite side of the cwm is pretty reliable and without turf.
OP glaramara 31 Dec 2016
In reply to philhilo:

Interesting. I'd not thought of cneifon arete and all that lot but they would be fun in all kinds of lean conditions. Thanks.

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