UKC

Placeholder, stats on the way!

In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan!
This week went nicely to plan. No heavy training due to desire to let elbows heal.

2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):

- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible) [done Jerry's Traverse and Suavito]
- Tetris (f7C)

2017 early spring goals (by end of April):

- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband

M: rest
T: Short fingerboard session as per the previous Sunday, ie: 4 sets of 5 second on / 5 second off repeaters x6 reps, half crimp on an 18mm edge, with 14 kg added. Also did half a set with the 35 degree slopers to finish.
W: rest.
T: As per Tuesday but did a few reps at the end on the ceiling pinches instead of the 35 degree slopers.
F: rest. TRX arrived in the post, psyched to get it set up but my birthday isn't until this coming Friday.
S: rest.
S: Gardoms. I did Suavito (f7B). A big achievement for me. I've had 4 proper sessions on it over a period of about 15 months, two last season and two this, so it's not as if it was a really long term project, but it had become a big thing in my head. I was really keen to do it for a long time because it's such a great problem, a real classic line with good moves, and also because it was the easiest good problem in Life on Hold. Then after a while I realised I could do all the moves and just had to link it, but continued failure got me stressed. Compounding all this is the fact that the top move (crux for most) is high up and is a slightly blind slap off a heel-hook which I really struggled to keep on. I have fallen off it in (literally) every possible different direction, and distance, to the extent that to pad out my potential landing area, just at single thickness, I need 6 pads. It was this move that I injured my heel falling off in December despite having 4 pads and a spotter - I missed them all. All this meant that on 3 out of 4 goes I got to the top, I just dropped off without trying the move as I couldn't force myself to go for it (even though today we had 8 pads!). All the moves are hard and physical so this was a massive waste of energy. It all became a major head-stress and I might not have gone back if I'd not done it today. Anyway, I spent several hours today in the same mode as last session. At one stage I pulled on half way up as I thought I could do the top move to gain confidence...and promptly fell off it in a really wild way. This messed massively with my head again and my next 4 or 5 attempts ground to a halt half way up because everything suddenly felt hard - ie the mojo had gone. Then suddenly at the end, just as we were about to leave, I decided to have one last go, stripped down to a t-shirt (it was bloody cold but staying warm no longer mattered) and somehow sent the thing! I couldn't believe it. Weird sense of relief rather than happiness, but I'm definitely glad I don't have to try it again A big weight off my shoulders. A shame in some ways as the climbing is brilliant.
After that we also walked up the crag and had a look at the moves on Pogles wood sitstart just before dark. One to go back for, it looks good although very powerful on the elbows...

Injury catalogue: Nothing really to note this week, I think the elbow is improving but first real test will be when I take it to the wall again. Considering Thursday this week. Heel aching a bit by the time I got back to the car this evening, but we had walked almost the whole length of Gardoms and back, so not really surprising.

Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 2 lb. Flat this week I think. Might be 11st3 tonight as I ate a lot today, but I was definitely burning it off! Sub-zero most of the day, had to clean hail off the top when we arrived.

Plan for this week is to go fairly easy again to continue to rest the elbow, but if the weather plays ball I'm hoping for a session on Milky Buttons / Tetris Saturday morning before a birthday lunch.

Si

In reply to Dandan:

Hello FitClubbers, this is your substitute host here, your normal host has gone AWOL north of the border for a couple of weeks, but don’t think you can mess about in his absence. Quiet in the back there! AJM, stop throwing things at Leeboy!
Right then, open your books to page 514 and let’s begin…

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Week 2 of the lattice training videos can be found here:
http://www.epictv.co.uk/media/series-home/lattice-trainings-epic-series/500...
I do these exercises and thoroughly enjoy them if i’m honest, it’s very easy to squeeze into your schedule if you have a handy pair of rings.

Last week’s thread can be found here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=656751
The 2016 roundup thread can be found here (we must just about be at last orders for new year goals by now?): https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=655705

Posters:

AJM - I couldn’t make the cutings clearing but it looked amazing, can’t wait to go check out the results!
Si dH - Sounds like you are on top of the multiple niggles, I hope this week has seen improvement
Humptydumpty - That looks like a solid week of work, good stuff, but more importantly, any progress on the lentil curry?
Bobling - Well done on the run and well done on not pushing to far too fast, your preventative exercise routine looks comprehensive, well done.
Hms - bad route setting can really ruin a climbing wall can’t it? Hope you work out a decent solution
Ally Smith - I miss skiing holidays, sounds fun! Good to hear the low incidence of elbow grumbles, pre-hab paying off?
The sheep - Video of tumble turns required
Hokkyokusei - 8 days on the trot, must feel good!
Dandan - Oh my, that’s a mighty big goal you’ve got there..
TheFasting - Ice climbing course sounds good, with plenty of lessons to take away.
Leeboy1985 - Well done on hitting 80kg, fingers crossed for further reductions!
TonyB - New lattice plan, awesome! Did week 1 go well?
Mattrm - 30 routes is a lot at any grade! If you can stick to 3 sessions a week then the weight should drop, diet or no diet.
Richard Popp - You must be the only person I know whose seconds are longer than real seconds, mine are half the length!
Biscuit - Summer sounds like something good to aim for, shame you will have such a busy time between now and then, hope you can keep your fitness up!

In reply to Dandan:


Thanks Dan. It certainly is awesome and very different from what I've been doing before. Ollie said that the idea was to shock my system with a much higher intensity. The first week had a little less than the following weeks, but went pretty well.

Mon - Campus Board + Continuity
This was the first time that I'd been on the campus board for ages and wasn't sure what to expect. I have a couple of exercises where there are slightly easier or harder options. I went with the easier ones on this go, and apart from a few times where I came close but missed a rung, I managed to get through the session. Really pleased with my first go. There is obviously a lot to do, and I'd like to build up to 1-4-6 and 1-3-6 (Can do 1-4-5 and 1-2-5).
Tue - Pilates + Boulder (short intervals)
The pilates is new. I have been interested in improving my posture and went to a free taster session. The instructor was very good and noticed a few things wrong about my posture straight away. I think doing this once a week will be beneficial and I'm going to stick with this. The bouldering should have been done on the woody, but due to a training course this wasn't availiable, but I tried to do it on steep panels. The next day I felt pretty battered, stiff fingers, aching down both sides and achy hip flexors (which I attribute to the pilates, furthering my suspicion that it's doing something).
Wed - rest
Thur - I did a short session with one of the local coaches in Loughborough. I haven't really used the woody before and it was really useful to get some pointers on it. We also identified some problems that will be good for my subsequent sessions. We spent the rest of the time bouldering on slabs and vertical walls on the V5-7 circuit. I was really pleased with how well I climbed that session.
Fri - My new lattice programme has weight training! I didn't do the full session, but spent the time working out my 1 rep max for the various tasks. I use the university gym, and was really impressed at the level of instruction the staff gave for free on this. I also found a neat webpage where you can add your scores for the various exercises and it will show your muscular symmetry. Unsurprisingly, I was incredibly asymmetric, and my bench press attempts were pretty pathetic. I imagine there is a lot of some progress to be made here.
Sat - Social bouldering with family and friends at the Unit followed by fingerboard. I was really disciplined and didn't do anything hard. The fingerboard session was on my new lattice rung. I was doing 1 armed hangs at -9 kg which feels pretty good. I'm focusing on form quite a lot, so I'm happy for this to develop more slowly. The year target is -5.25 kg, so I was pretty pleased with this start.
Sun - rest

I'm definitely one of the people who haven't yet set goals for this year. I feel like I want to have a year out from caring about grades. I'd like to see big improvements in strength, and I feel with the woody, campusing and fingerboard that this may well happen. I'll be very happy meeting the -5.25 kg target on the lattice rung, but I'm really hoping for -4 kg as that will be in line with next years target. I really want to make myself more injury proof and improve the posture. I think pilates will help. I've taken some photographs and will try and see improvement by comparing them to photographs in 3 months time. I've also been watching videos of good boulderers and have noticed that they seem to have much better hip flexibility than me. This will be another goal to improve my hip flexibility. I've taken photos of various stretches, so I will have try and see if I can see improvements in 3 months time. I realise that these are very vague goals, but I think getting strong and flexible will be hugely beneficial. Over the next weeks, I plan to decide on some longer term board projects, but in the meantime I just want to get used to the style before I decide what might be feasible.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks, Dan! I made a very bland lentil curry last week, but forgot to report it. I'll try to do better in the coming weeks!

Not much in the way of climbing training this week, and even running is making my shoulder ache, so I'll be keeping an eye on that. Also my yoga teacher went on holiday, and I lost all my notes on pull ups and press ups. So, a bit of a mess!

On the positive side, did an 11 mile run in a reasonable time, and definitely felt like I could have kept going at the same pace. With 3 weeks left to train, the half marathon's no longer feeling intimidating.

Note to self: new year's day weight was about 83.5kg, so it will be interesting to see how this develops over the year.


Short Term Goals (end of March):
- left side traverse problem
- run/yoga/theraband/frying Pan/one-leg squats each 3 times weekly
- make a proper training plan
- half marathon
- don't get injured

Medium Term Goals (end of June):
- learn to cook lentil curry
- try bouldering
- swim regularly (front crawl)
- one armed pull-up
- learn to climb overhanging stuff
- don't get injured

Long Term Goals (2017):
- RP 8a (Kaly)
- Traveserra dels Gossos
- http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1818 in a weekend
- don't get injured

M - bike (40 min); run (90 min)
T - run (60 min)
W - bike (60 min); went to the wall, onsited 6C slab, less luck on the overhangs. L shoulder felt like it might give up any minute.
T - run (90 mins)
F - bike (60 mins)
S - run (110 mins)
S - NOTHING!

In reply to Dandan:

Dan - I love the starting comments. Good luck with the BHAG. I suspect you underestimate how much crap I eat during the week re weight loss.

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 10lbs

M - Rest
T - Indoor routes (harder stuff)
W - Rest
T - Indoor routes - 30 routes
S - Rest
S - Rest

Two sessions this week. Probably won't do three each week. I'll aim for two next week I guess. See how I get on with that.

In reply to TonyB:

I was thinking of ordering a lattice rung with a route/grade/weight target on it as a silly bit of motivation in my cellar by the Fingerboard. I don't want to order one that comes with a weight target that's too easy or hard though! Am I allowed to ask what grade target equates to -5.25kg, or is that not how it's been set?

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for the stats, Dan. And yes it can!

this was a slightly less packed 'transition' week (I note that my training plan does not attempt to sell it as a rest week). I had troublesome fingers at the start of the week so also swapped out a max hang for an additional lattice session.

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening.
T - cycle commute. Warm-up then vanilla fingerboard repeaters (7/3/6/3 x 6). 15 min rest then 7/3/6/1 x 10 with 7.5kg assist.
W - cycle commute. Various rehab, pressups, weighted situps in evening.
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening. The reds have gone, replaced with the rather stiffer blacks. Played on these as a warm-up then Lattice 1min on:1min off x 10 which at the new steeper angle was tough work.
F - 4 miles urban walking. Yet more rehab, pressups (PB - I managed 14 real ones!!), weighted situps.
S - visit to The Warehouse with H & D1. warmup then 12 routes in pairs from 6b(+) up to 7a (not clean). As a visitor it was hard to know how to use the multiple foot possibilities of their bendcrete wall. But the setting was good - the routes had a flow to them - bliss!
S - TCA for on the minute boulders in ~v2-v4 range (mix of new black, top end yellow, low green and half a dozen of the flash comp). 20 problems although I lose count almost immediately so think it was more x 2. Back home did vanilla repeats 7/3/6/3 x 5 with 7.5kg assist on the v smallest BM1000 slots, then same x 3 with 5kg assist. 40 weighted situps whilst vegging in the evening.

This weeks plan looks challenging, hence the cramming in 2 things from it today. Pleased to hang the little uns, 5kg assist for the full set seems entirely possible next time.

In reply to Si dH:

The -5.25kg isn't a grade target as such. It was what I scored previously on Tom's older rung. This was a bit better than the lattice rung, hence equaling that score on the new rung would be improvement. For me, -4 kg would be 8a+ or more specifically Caviar (8a+), which I suspect demands more finger strength than many other routes at the same grade. I have no intention of getting on Caviar the route this year. I do want to get on the boulder problem though. The route is something that I had been considering as a long term goal.

In reply to TonyB:

Cool, thanks Tony, that's interesting.
We definitely have a date on the boulder problem in Spring.

In reply to Dandan:
Two week catchup for me although nothing significant to say, just more bouldering. Not as strong as previously but getting better. Made tentative start towards some training rather than fannying around on the wall by doing weighted pull ups (17.5kg 1rep max followed by 3x5 @10kg) which didn't seem to knacker my shoulder any more and also did some dead hangs. Need to do this twice a week

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan - return of minor elbow grumbles this week, mostly brought about from shoulder instabilities i think. Maybe time to include some gentle rings work - the Horst & Lattice stuff on EpicTV looks spot on...

...otherwise, a very successful week with some measurable progress on the FB stats and a cave RP to boot.

Week 4:
M - Warmed up to do a fingerboard session, wasn’t feeling it, so just did some weights. OHP@37.5kg 3x8. DL@57.5kg 4x12.
T - Lopez style max hangs, progressive then 47kg and main set of 4x51kg; felt like I was getting recruited throughout the session and last hangs felt easier then 10:3 an-cap hangs @60% Much improved from 2 weeks ago; 20% improvement of headline figure, and constant at baseline. Gentle core & press-ups. Stretch. Good session.
W - Rest. Nowt apart from gentle stretching.
T - Depot. Slightly random session whilst working out the circuits. Purple 7b flash, White “7c+” (7b+/c?) 2nd RP, attempted to repeat it and got 4/5th way round, some other circuits, then some 6b continuity/volume to round out session. Some good sustained circuits to get fit on, but skin screaming at me.
F - Stretch & eccentrics
S - Cave – Very cold. Warmed up, then had 2 goes at Trigger Cut (V10). Got it 2nd go and continued upFamiliar Cut (8a+). This was shambolic; getting super chilled on the heelhook shake-out as I’d forgotten the beta, and the chalk had washed away. Finally hauled up my way up the top-out with numb hands. Re-warm-up. Play on Broken Trigger (V11), but power had faded a bit. Rest. In Life (V12) RPs. 1st go block didn’t match block. Next go matched block and fell off slap to RA jugs. 3rd go, new highpoint getting jug, resting on kneebar, but blew it on Cave Life when heelhook ripped unexpectedly. Very keen for a rematch this week/end.
S - Rest – DIY club - bathroom shopping.

Weight: 77.0 kg & 14.9%

STG – end of Jan:
At least 4 further rehab sessions – eccentrics, armaid & nerve flossing/stretching to cement in the fix.
Cave RPs on In Life & Familiar Cut (TICK)
Start lifting again
Stick to the plan

MTG – end of Feb:
Deadlift 100kg (go use a proper gym!)
Stick to the plan; long an-cap & aero-power, then taper
Record FoC & Lattice benchmarks in same week before Chulilla trip

LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or grit traverse?)
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
8b in Chulilla in Feb/Mar
8A/+ in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan. I've been a bit miserable about it the last few weeks and last week was a proper 'f**k it! Why am I even bothering?' kind of a week. My diet is crap, i'm not exercising and I've got a lot on. Had a word with myself the other day. Diet going better, i'm back commuting on my bike (which should help keep the lard off) and feeling a bit more positive. I know I've got some time coming up after May so i'm going to get there in the best shape I can without driving myself mental.

This week I did one session that was with the squad yesterday. 3 sets of bodyweight circuit workout stuff and 3 rounds of a core workout. Also did some bouldering but didn't get anything over V5. Felt heavy (which the muffin top forming on my trousers tells me is a real thing) and sluggish but at least I got something done.

Other than biking as much as I can i'm not setting targets this week. It just winds me up when I get nowhere near them.

In reply to Si dH:

That would be great.

In reply to TonyB & Si dH:

Count me in! It'd be good to have some variety in bouldering venues and I haven't been to Rubicon for years

In reply to Dandan:
Seems like climbing is a two steps forward, one step back sort of thing for me. This week, for some reason, during my climbing session I lost all my mental edge and couldn't send a single indoor route. Never got above the 4th or 5th bolt. On the easier routes I climbed until I got to a tricky part and then I froze, and lowered down. On the harder route I barely got off the ground before I came to another tricky part and froze right there ("tricky part" = when I actually have to try).

I've done some fall training, but not nearly enough it seems. I even did it once that session, fell a few meters as part of my warm-up. So it seems my new goal has to be to fall 10 times per session. And I have an idea to do more "uncontrolled falls", in that when I freeze because I'm scared to make a move because I might fall, then I have to just let go and take the fall anyway (provided I'm at or above the 4th bolt)

I've got to say, this is probably the most frustrating part of climbing for me. I've started to climb pretty well (by my own standards) at this point, sending quite a few 5c and some 6a/6a+.

I also bouldered a lot this week, a combined 5 hours probably. Sent my first f6b, and a ton of f5/f5+. Did all the f5s in my climbing gym and nearly all in my student climbing club's bouldering room. At least with bouldering I only have to worry about the actual climbing so it's easier to perform well.

In reply to Dandan:

Kicking off with Monday last week went as follows;

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim. Tumble turns coming on, however chesty cough that has dogged me since before Christmas was making it really hard to catch my breath. Therefore was only able to go at the pace i would normally take over 2km, a theme that lasted the entire week leaving me knackered after every swim.

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim. Then in the evening cycled home, 25.9km, hopped straight in the car to take eldest daughter to swim training (15 min drive) and went out for a 5.5km run. Times were all pretty average but have convinced myself I will be able to have a punt at a sprint triathlon.

Wednesday, 1km lunchtime swim. No evening activity but did start my pool training for sports diver qualification.

Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim. Commute home on the bike, 25.8km.

Friday, 1km lunchtime swim. Commute home, 25.9km. Set off early so nice to have some daylight for the ride.

Saturday, gentle potter on bikes round a local reservoir with the kids

Sunday, evening run, 9.6km, longest run yet. 57.58 so pace good enough to get me just below 1 hour for the 10k. Could have done the full 10 but have promised the wife we will do our first 10k together.

Pleased with the weeks activity, now need to find a sprint tri to have a go at.

In reply to Dandan:


Thanks for standing in


It does feel good. It felt so good that I kept going and ran every day this week too. I may as well try and keep it going until the end of the month.

m - 5.4k running, 2hrs gym, stretches, plyometrics, drills, core & circuits.
t - 10k cycling, 5.2k running
w - 5k running
t - 5.1k runnning
f - 10k ycling, 6k running
s - 5k running - Horton Park parkrun, slower than normal, but saving myself for Sunday
s - 1.9k warm up. Peco XC 3 at West Park, Leeds 8.4k off road.

Average weight, slightly up :/

STG - run every day to the end of January.
MTG - Don't die on the Wadsworth Trog

In reply to Dandan: Hi, thanks Dan. funny week at work with difficult personnel staff which is never pleasant and is time consuming. Had three good wall sessions but struggled with more daily exercise-core slipped but is back.

Have also downloaded a finger board timer, avoiding fingerboard to this week but brief play show that a)my seconds are longer and b)it is far easier to watch a timer and breathe as opposed to count in my head and breathe.

M-short but very steep run, 35 mins-core (getting very tough)
T-Shoulder strength and yoga.
W-TCA, few of the new blacks but mainly focused on styling circuit.
Th-Shoulder strength-short trip to wall.
Fri-Work took over
Sa-short but positive TCA-can do circuit in two overlapping halves with some finesse and under control. Full circuit breaks down with pump.
Su-Lovely in the sun, wish I had got out-yoga, back on the core, shoulder strength.

This week very busy but hopefully easing up then, at least a bit.

Rich

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks me,
My new, improved, sensible approach to injury saved me this week, I got an interesting new tender spot on the elbow on Wednesday but I jumped straight into protective mode instead of pushing on through and I'm glad to say as of this morning the elbow is totally fine.

M: indoor routes; 1 on 2 off x10, did this at 7b, need to find some harder routes to lap!

T: Nothing

W: Indoor boulder; due to time constraints I had to do fingerboard followed by hard bouldering on this day, not ideal but I wanted to fit everything in. I got to the wall early so I could leave a big gap between the sessions. Fingerboard was pretty good, 1 hand hangs on 40mm slot and AA slot at about +5 and -3.5kg respectively.
Boulder session was 3 goes at a hard problem then try a dynamic 1-4-7 on each arm immediately after, rest 6 mins and repeat 6 times. This was great fun especially as there were some resets so lots of new problems to try. The campussing was probably the most dynamic I've ever done it, the conditioning that is keeping my elbows happy means I can pull more dynamically without pain, something I've always had trouble with. The only issue is that I think getting past the usual elbow pain and pulling more powerfully has affected my elbow in a slightly different way, so the next day I had a sore spot behind the bony medial epicondyle. Its hard to see on google images if anything attaches there but I think the tenderness was some kind of tendon/attachment point pain, it wasn't muscle pain and it thankfully wasn't golfer's elbow (I tested) that would be just my luck!
Like I say it has recovered now but I made the decision to ditch the rest of the weeks plan, which Tom agreed with. We are going to drop the amount of campus work in the plan as it's clearly hazardous for me, but I'd like to keep a bit of it going because I'd love to improve this dynamic, powerful pulling to be able to make use of my silly strength, it's just going to be a balancing act and I'd rather err on the side of injury prevention.

T - F: Nothing

S: Indoor routes; quick trip to Calshot, more for Mrs Dandan than for me, I didn't do anything over 6c+, elbow felt fine but I didn't want to push it. Finally got my comp prize, it's a really nice Osprey rucksack which has already been appropriated by Mrs Dandan, apparently it's not big enough for me...

S: DIY Club; I have lights and power in my workshop! Epic day fitting insulation, boarding out and wiring up, now the interior is illuminated like a football stadium, well pleased!

Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
All sessions on plan - Fail due to elbow safety concerns
Continue to not abuse elbows - er, oops!

New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
Re-instate some handstand press-ups -
All sessions on plan and no off-piste hard bouldering -
Maybe try to get this pesky Warwick 7c clean before it gets taken down -

MTG: (next few months)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for 1st Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going well
8a on Lattice Trip in Feb
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)

LTG: (next Year)
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

In reply to Ally Smith:

Excellent. It would be good to meet you Ally.

In reply to Dandan:

exciting news - AJM may be AWOL for a bit as he just became a daddy!

In reply to Dandan:

Evening FitClub. Low key this week as predictably calf was twinging so didn't run. Nothing much more to add apart from it feels better now and hope to get out on it tomorrow to run back from work. Hope it stays OK, as I can't face a return to the pool (despite it being an STG! Hmmm).

Mon - P48, S52 Foam rollering on calves, shins and ITB. Stretches
Tues - P46, S52 Foam rollering on calves, shins
Weds - P50, S53 Foam rollering on calves, shins
Thurs - Dinner with wife for her birthday, whole lobster. No exercise : )
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Spent Saturday evening roaming round Box mine with a mate - c.10k walk. Got home at 11 and drank a bottle of bubbles with OH. Yum.
Sun - Hungover(ish), very lazy day. Nothing.

Weight: 73.20 (-0.10)
Injury report:Left calf better. .Exercises - press-ups, sit sups, one leg stands leg in front, one leg stands leg behind, squat stance, use foam roller.

New Goals:
Short Term (through to January 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall. Start gentle running - 5k twice a week (when?!). Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock ou

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.

In reply to hms:

You've gone and spoiled my excuse there Helen!

Yes, I now have a miniAJM. So far he has mainly been sleeping but I doubt this will last!

The only other news of note is that assuming all is still relatively under control I'm going to try and make the physio appointment I've booked for this week to work out what's wrong with my right arm. It hurts to do a pullup so I've got to do something. I can use a trx for a respectable amount of shoulder stuff thankfully so all is not lost.

In reply to AJM:

Congratulations to all three of you Andy!

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan

I failed on some of my objectives this week but overall I was quite happy as I managed a north wales trip o the weekend with 2 really good hill days so overall I am happy with the week

I am not going to set any goals for this week as it is already Friday and I know whatever I set I would have already failed as the week is over and I have hardly done anything. I am going to blame a chaotic week in work but really that is just an excuse and if I was more motivated I could of go some more training in.

Last weeks goals

Eat correctly all week and weigh 79kg again - Tick
2 runs one long distance, 1 short and fast - Fail
Climb twice - Both sessions back to endurance - Tick
2 sessions of TFTNA conditioning 2 rounds each time - Fail


M - climbing on 4x5 on a 12 meter wall. route is graded 6b+ but it is more like 6a
T -TFTNA condition. 1 core warm up and 2 rounds conditioning - 1 hour
W - started an endurance session but had a really painful feeling in m shoulder so half way through the session I done some really easy bouldering instead
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - The Bochlwyd Horseshoe (Grade-1)
S - The Chasm Face (Grade-3)

Happy Training
Lee

In reply to Dandan:

Sorry for being AWOL last week... Only just here this week!

Mum in and out of hospital so didn't get to the Peak at the weekend. On top of the Randall plan though including an awesome volume session at the Reach (pretty high grade for a volume session averaging V4), set some problems at the wall and took my kids team to a comp so squeezing it in. Felt rough for a lot of the week - Nauseous, shattered and not sleeping well. Eating too much. Bleugh.

On a random note, I'm thinking of applying for the Mountain Training non-exec director role as the fundraising/marketing advisor. I've got the professional CV and tick some gender and ethnic boxes. Anyone got any views on MT as an organisation? Good use of my time if selected?