UKC

Hi All,

Just wondering if anyone has any good wrist/arm strengthening routines they do at home/wall/gym for ice climbing. Specifically something that helps build up the strength of actually swinging the axe into the ice. I used to climb a bit a few years back and used to swing dumbbells like an ice axe and was ok on WI4 but these days I'm weak as hell and wondering if anyone has any more interesting or effective workouts.

And before some smart arse says climb more ice, I'm stuck in London most the time and trying to do what I can at home so I don't cack my pants so much when I go away.

Cheers,
Rick

In reply to Rick Ashton:

Am in same position as you but without your previous experience. But loads of calf exercises as advised by my guide, and towel pull ups are great for grip and pull movements. They don't really replicate the forearm burn though....only climbing seems to do that. ...
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In reply to Rick Ashton:

Crusher holds make some pull up grips that can be hung. Mine are on my pull up bar.

In reply to Rick Ashton:

You don't need strong wrists - good technique is key.
Eye - brain - swing (one efficient ergonomic placement - no flailing).
You do need strong arms so simplest training is leading overhangs on big jugs at the wall.
DC

In reply to Rick Ashton: Ive never had a problem with wrist strength while climbing ice, but i do a lot of deadlifting in my strength programme which im sure contributes to wrist strength.I thing the main things i struggled with when i got into ice climbing was calf weakness/burn and shoulders getting pumped out.

In reply to Dave Cumberland:

I agree but my technique seems to dissappear on brittle ice and thats when my strength also let me down. I work hard on my technique particualarly ice climbing but would be much more comfortable on WI4-5 if stronger, particluarly endurance for long fall that are several pitches long

In reply to blackcat:

Aye, my calfes certainly need strengthening.

In reply to stuartholmes:

I presume hanging from your axes off your pull up bar does the same thing which i do sometimes. Just need to do it more often.

In reply to Rick Ashton:

you shouldn't really need much specific arm work other than just climbing indoors. Certainly not if your skill level is likely to be WI4 or less. I would concentrate on your calves my self.

If you just want some more specific training Craggy Island have a mixed climbing area which can be handy.

Some gyms let you use these also http://static1.1.sqspcdn.com/static/f/1368442/25504177/1412210927837/ICICLE...

In reply to Rick Ashton:

Keep your picks sharp and the force needed to seat them in the ice is much less. In any case, the swinging action doesn't need much force, it's just about timing the flick of the wrist. Holding on and pulling is where the strength comes in. My favourite work out for wrist strength is my 'weight winder' ; I have about a metre long piece of 40mm drain pipe with a length of cord secured through a hole in the middle of the pipe. You then attach a weight onto the cord and lift it by rotating the pipe in your hands. The burn in your forearms is incredible and you can also balance your wrist extensor muscles by winding it back to the bottom and then carrying on to lift it again.

In reply to Rick Ashton:

I'd get yourself down Dover mate. Nothing works the pump like chalk on the dry side

Seriously though, I've seen so much brittle ice this winter. Temperatures have been too unstable. I've just been trying to take my time, make double sure of good sticks, and not lose my shape.

In reply to Jimbo C:

I had new pics this weekend

In reply to Mr. Lee:

I need a good partner mate who drags me down. They've all left. Yeh the ice in Switzerland was brittle this weekend but I was also very weak. I guess not climbing for 3 years is always going to have a big impact but I was miles off what I used to be able to climb.

In reply to Rick Ashton:

You don't really need 'strong' wrists (unless you have particularly weak ones?), it's just a quick flick of the wrist at the end of the swing. Forearm pump is the real issue. Ice axe lock offs and pull ups are useful (can be done on a wooden edge screwed on above a doorframe. Dry tooling is very useful - indoors if you can find a wall that will let you do it, outdoors is better of course.

In reply to Rick Ashton:

There's a recent (Norwegian) start-up company that makes a specific ice tool training grip: https://tindeq.com/

Looks a bit niche but less likely to trash your door frames than real tools

In reply to Rick Ashton:

Do you have access to a gym with weights and a variety of pull up bars or options to mount rings.

Am happy to give you a list of exercises which will help.

In reply to alx:

I have access to the castle climbing wall which has some weights etc but only just started going again after a few years and have a pull up bar at home. Be great to here exercises that may help

In reply to Rick Ashton:
For wrists:
Towel pull ups have been mentioned already, which would be a good sport specific exercise.
Plank, side plank on a straight arm.
Reverse curls or Zottman curls
Inclined ring rows with your thumb upwards like holding an ice axe
Push ups on your knuckles
Push ups on parallel bars
I would also recommend using the elbow tendonitis weighted pronation and supination exercises but use heavy weights and stick with 6-8 reps, 4-6 sets.

For shoulders I would recommend ring flies and scapula abduction.

I would also suggest you try dish and arched body holds for core, so you can keep a high axe pressed into a marginal placement high above or behind you if on steep ice.