UKC

So a friend is coming from Switzerland this weekend and I'm looking for recommendations on where to go for the best dry rock in the country to give him a good British trad experience.

The intention had been to go winter climbing but that's been thrown out the window with the current thaw and conditions around Scotland look reasonably wet for rock so we're contemplating a trip south of the border.

Bar a couple of forays to the Peak and Northumberland, I know nothing of English rock so looking for recommendations. Things we are looking for:

- Dry Rock
- High-quality rock
- Preferably something which is world class
- Somewhere the weather looks dry all weekend

We have a car and are willing to travel.

Thanks!

In reply to Pina:
Swanage fits your criteria.
(bring abseil rope and wear helmets at all times)
Edit: Just realized you are based in Scotland. Probably a bit far to travel for a weekend. On the other hand many southern climbers do do weekend trips in the opposite direction, so not impossible.

In reply to Pina:
Not been in winter, but I understand that Rhoscolyn can be in good nick. It's a fantastic crag with brilliant big single pitches from around E1 upwards, some tidal, some not. Anglesey tends to get better weather than elsewhere, although I would guess there's still a significant risk of it being wet at this time if it hasn't had a couple of dry days. A true sea cliff experience but without the commitment of Gogarth, which is largely tidal and multipitch (and some of it is very adventurous, i.e. choss). That said, I think Castle Helen at Gogarth is still (relatively) popular in winter - it's the most conventional and accessible Gogarth crag and has excellent multipitch routes VS-E2. It's not really somewhere I'd like to be if it was cold and wet though...

I don't go climbing on sea cliffs in winter, but then I rarely get a rope on at all until April - you sound more intrepid. I'm also not sure I'd drive that far given the chances of everything being cold and wet on the basis that it's the UK in February, but there you go...

In reply to Pina:

Malham Cove. South facing, good trad routes on the right wing, unique location, and sport climbing on catwalk if weather precludes trad. Not quite as far as some suggestions either.

In reply to Jon Stewart, tmawer, Kirill:

Thanks for the recommendations! This time of year would generally be spent shivering at a belay anyways so whether it's rock or winter I think we'll make do. Malham looks like a winner at the minute in terms of minimum drive for some good routes.