UKC

I'm intrigued. Both The Seam and Savage Slit were logged today and yet the buttresses looked as black as night and thawing. When does a winter climb become a wet rock climb?

In reply to Cuillin Calling:

Last week sometime?

In reply to Cuillin Calling:

I'd have gone for a crack of dawn hit on something on Number 4 Buttress or Fiacaill Buttress but all partners were otherwise engaged. Some freeze-thaw over the last few days and shelter from the westerlies followed by snow high up yesterday evening/night and freezing temps till lunchtime. Both could quite conceivably have been in for a few hours this morning, especially some of the routes on the NE aspects of Lochain, which looked pretty good on the Loch Morlich webcam yesterday afternoon.

Or we could just have the usual UKC flame-fest on the subject

In reply to Tricadam:

Clearly dubious enough to have hidden their logbooks though.

In reply to Pina:


My thoughts too.

In reply to Pina:


My thoughts too!

In reply to Tricadam:

I'm only a tourist, bumbled up over 1100m yesterday and today and didn't find anything I couldnt easily boot my mantas into. Carried axe and crampons yesterday, didn't bother today. There must have been some soft snowy stuff to slither up, but as for any proper ice around, not where I went!

In reply to Tricadam:

BURN THEM, BURN THEM ALL!

In reply to Tricadam:

Not so sure about the freeze thaw, it seems to have been more thaw-thaw. I admit I wasn't there by dawn today but Lochain buttresses were dripping by 10am.

Does a snowball sized amount of snow on a route constitute winter? Ha ha.

In reply to tspoon1981:

We went for the crack of dawn approach today (Sunday morning), and it was rubbish. We soloed some easy gullys and got back to the car at 10am. I like Scottish wet-tooling as much as the next person, but the mixed was definitely out of condition today.

In reply to Cuillin Calling:

If the multi-coloured gear freaks/neophytes want to use their metal, they will. It's called dry tooling, or aided rock climbing, and it's easier than rock climbing, a bit like climbing ladders. They should find a dead tree instead and stop messing up the rock. Obviously they haven't a clue about the environment or winter conditions for winter climbing.
DC

In reply to Dave Cumberland:

I notice that 2016 was the warmest year on record.

In reply to tspoon1981:


Maybe we could petition the Devs for some kind of 'Winter Climbing alert' facility. Then the logbook police can go do something constructive rather than sit in front of the computer in the hope of seeing a dubious ascent so they can start an indignant thread about it.

In reply to planetmarshall:


And that posting could in turn trigger an alert for you so that you can come on here and post indignantly about their indignation.

Massive time savings for all concerned. Why isn't this a thing already?

In reply to DaveHK:


Actually I'm pretty sure I could construct a bot based on previous postings on the subject, something like the late lamented tw*t-o-tron. Then no one would have to spend any time on it.

It does make me wonder how many UKC users are in fact bots...

In reply to planetmarshall:

I'm one.

In reply to planetmarshall:


If the guys who logged the climbs had logged them as summer conds then there would be no indignation.

Seriously though I'd love to hear their version and what confs they actually found on the route.

In reply to Pina:


The main reason some people hide their logbooks is to avoid being the subject of threads like this one.

In reply to Timmd:
They imagined you standing by whilst babies died, when you said it.

In reply to Offwidth:
Oops, deleted by accident my wondering why my observation on last year's weather was disliked, re it seeming 'Donald Trump like'.

Maybe they thought I was making a point about climate change, but it's a weird thing if somebody stating a fact is thought of as making a point or having an agenda.

Maybe the truth is the people who don't like certain facts have an agenda, or particular point of view?

'I dislike reality...'

Happy days

In reply to Timmd:

To be fair I'm beginning to like reality less and less. Maybey these were 'post-truth' winter accents?

In reply to ebdon:

Possibly, or 'alternative fact' ones?