UKC

We're going down to torqauy for a short break at the beginning of April from london, would be great to get any recommendations of good venues (that aren't bird banned!) for a first outing of the season in the area as have never been down there. Anything goes really- trad, bouldering, sport towards the easier / moderate end of the difficulty spectrum! Any personal favorites?

Thanks,

Chris

In reply to Denoir:

Rock Fax South West has a selection of the trad.

I'd recommend Red Wall, Coastguard, Brixham. Daddyhole if seagulls aren't in kamikaze mood.

Not far away is the much maligned Chudleigh. There are some great routes despite any polish. Also low man and hound tor if the weather is good.

There's no plethora of good easy sport in Torbaydos. There's a dreadful 5 and two 6as at Ansteys. Churston has a few nice easier sport routes. Supercalorific is fantastic. Martin Launderette is not!

There's not much bouldering in the bay. But bone Hill and hound tor are not far if the weather is good.

In reply to Denoir:

What Cusco said. Whilst Torbay is a great venue for April sunshine, it is at its best in the summer months when flirting with falling into the sea becomes a desirable option. Well in April around VS/HVS we have...
Daddyhole: Gates of Eden, Last Exit
Meadfoot: Median, Hermeda
Sanctuary Wall: Sacrosanct
Telegraph Hole: Midas Touch, Chairman Mao, Liason with Lenin
Chudleigh: Inkermans Groove, Great Western, Sarcophagus (honestly)
Ansteys: Sunshine, Blue Sky, Tiny Tim, Acheron
Red Walls: Red Crack, Abbots Way, Chastity Corner, Ruddigore, Izitso
From Berry Head Quarry: Quality Street
Whilst the new guide (2018) will have a few more options these will be hard to scope out until more info is published.

In reply to Denoir:
Moonraker at Berry Head is classic. Just getting to the start is an adventure on it's own (a long sea level traverse around the back of a huge dark cave). You could carry on traversing and do the full 1200 foot sea level traverse - HVS with a very short swim (or V11 without).

The Yardarm is also pretty cool - E2 5b and Dreadnought E3.

On the other side is another long DWS traverse: Rainbow Bridge - E4.

At Long Quarry Point a great route is A Call To Arms - E4 5c. Very steep jug hauling straight above the sea.

In reply to Denoir:

Can only agree with Kafoozalem's list but would add an extra venue which caches all the sun going, no seepage, fence post belays at the top of every route and safe easy 3 min access from free parking.
Daddyhole Upper Cliff
Definetly no polish and a helmet is a good idea. Also probably the easiest venue to toprope in the bay if that's of interest.
Give it a go and see what you think.
Enjoy the Bay
Chris

In reply to stp:

I think all your Berry Head suggestions will be bird banned in April

In reply to AJM:

Well spotted. Hadn't thought of that. Thanks

In reply to Denoir:

Thanks for the advice- plenty to take a look at. Quite a few of the sea cliffs on berry head are bird banned unfortunately- shame as they look to be great venues.

Thanks,

Chris

In reply to Denoir:

No bird ban at Red Walls, Coastguard Cliffs, Brixham which is one reason why I suggested it. Plus it's a nice little cliff in a great location with good views, good swimming in the sumner and a cafe at the top of the approach path and seafood around Brixham harbour in the evening. Torbaydos at its relaxed holiday best.

Unless of course it's raining!