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My chainsaw doesn't work - or rather my parent's chainsaw of dubious history doesn't work.
It's a two stroke Ryobi RSC4046c (if that helps) it's always been a bit tempramental starting, but now will only sputter occasionally. The fuel is petrol with 1:50 two stroke oil.
What can I do to make it go again - my pile of firewood is looking forlornly at me, waiting for the chop.
The local servicing places laughed at me when I told them it was a Ryobi, and to go and buy something better, or would charge me the same as a replacement chainsaw would cost.
I don't object to buying a new one, but if it's fixable then I'd prefer to keep it going.
Any advice gratefully received,
GTE
It's a two stroke Ryobi RSC4046c (if that helps) it's always been a bit tempramental starting, but now will only sputter occasionally. The fuel is petrol with 1:50 two stroke oil.
What can I do to make it go again - my pile of firewood is looking forlornly at me, waiting for the chop.
The local servicing places laughed at me when I told them it was a Ryobi, and to go and buy something better, or would charge me the same as a replacement chainsaw would cost.
I don't object to buying a new one, but if it's fixable then I'd prefer to keep it going.
Any advice gratefully received,
GTE
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
I think they are all temperamental to some extent, maybe get an electric one as well.
At work the tree surgeons reckon 4 saws so at least one might work when required.
Regarding the engine only and ignoring the chain safety checks, try changing/cleaning the spark plug and air filter.
Thats all I have done for the last 8 years with my second hand Husky, cut a mountain of wood, it usually starts when asked. If it doesn't, a few minutes chopping instead and it has always fired up unless the spark plug and air filter have been neglected.
Edit, be religious with the mixture and always shake the can/saw before use.
I think they are all temperamental to some extent, maybe get an electric one as well.
At work the tree surgeons reckon 4 saws so at least one might work when required.
Regarding the engine only and ignoring the chain safety checks, try changing/cleaning the spark plug and air filter.
Thats all I have done for the last 8 years with my second hand Husky, cut a mountain of wood, it usually starts when asked. If it doesn't, a few minutes chopping instead and it has always fired up unless the spark plug and air filter have been neglected.
Edit, be religious with the mixture and always shake the can/saw before use.
Post edited at 16:11
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In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
As Rick says. Also check out the exhaust. Sometimes these can get coked up
As Rick says. Also check out the exhaust. Sometimes these can get coked up
2
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Give it a very good shake then change the fuel.
If it won't start clean the air filter and check the plug.
If it won't start strip the carb and clean all the bits (they can gum up if not used for a while)
If it won't start strip the engine and check everything, make sure you can get a joint set before stripping it though.
Give it a very good shake then change the fuel.
If it won't start clean the air filter and check the plug.
If it won't start strip the carb and clean all the bits (they can gum up if not used for a while)
If it won't start strip the engine and check everything, make sure you can get a joint set before stripping it though.
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1
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
New plug, new fuel filter, check / clean the air filter. While you're at it make sure that the chain brake works properly for when you do get it working.
New plug, new fuel filter, check / clean the air filter. While you're at it make sure that the chain brake works properly for when you do get it working.
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In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
So long as it turns with the starter handle there's not a lot that can go wrong with a two stroke engine.
I'd start with the easy bits and check your spark plug, it should be a nice light cream colour, if it's sooted up or corroded clean it with a file and set the gap. If you take the plug out and with the lead connected place the end against a metal part of the engine, pull the starter handle a bit and you should see/hear a spark.
check the air filter is clean ish.
Fill with fresh fuel and check you are getting fuel through.
If you have air, fuel and a spark you should be able to start it even if it only runs for a few secs. if it won't run on then try playing with the carburettor, the diaphragms get old and hard an fail to regulate the fuel supply effectively.
So long as it turns with the starter handle there's not a lot that can go wrong with a two stroke engine.
I'd start with the easy bits and check your spark plug, it should be a nice light cream colour, if it's sooted up or corroded clean it with a file and set the gap. If you take the plug out and with the lead connected place the end against a metal part of the engine, pull the starter handle a bit and you should see/hear a spark.
check the air filter is clean ish.
Fill with fresh fuel and check you are getting fuel through.
If you have air, fuel and a spark you should be able to start it even if it only runs for a few secs. if it won't run on then try playing with the carburettor, the diaphragms get old and hard an fail to regulate the fuel supply effectively.
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In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
You get what you pay for to some degree.
First does it have compression, pull the starter slowly you should feel a little jolt as the piston moves up and down
Next, spark. Take off the top cover. Remove plug and hold with rubber handled pliers against the body when you turn it over. There should be a visible spark.
Next . Was the plug wet with fuel. Smell it. What does it look like? Sooted or burnt clean. You can Google for different images.
The results of the above will steer you.
But also consider the fuel line, no splits or trapped air. Some have manual primers. Air filter is relatively clean. The fuel is it newish. If still nothing take the side cover off and check for damaged wires that might stop current flowing.
Edit. If you are open to dabbling inject a little fuel into the cylinder and 're insert the plug. Try to start immediately and see if you can get it to cough.
Note. Many saws start by first trying to start with choke on. It coughs a little. Then take choke off and start it again at which point it runs.
You get what you pay for to some degree.
First does it have compression, pull the starter slowly you should feel a little jolt as the piston moves up and down
Next, spark. Take off the top cover. Remove plug and hold with rubber handled pliers against the body when you turn it over. There should be a visible spark.
Next . Was the plug wet with fuel. Smell it. What does it look like? Sooted or burnt clean. You can Google for different images.
The results of the above will steer you.
But also consider the fuel line, no splits or trapped air. Some have manual primers. Air filter is relatively clean. The fuel is it newish. If still nothing take the side cover off and check for damaged wires that might stop current flowing.
Edit. If you are open to dabbling inject a little fuel into the cylinder and 're insert the plug. Try to start immediately and see if you can get it to cough.
Note. Many saws start by first trying to start with choke on. It coughs a little. Then take choke off and start it again at which point it runs.
Post edited at 18:08
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In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
All the above advice seems good.
Compression would be my guess as well. Take the spark plug out and jam your finger over the hole and try turning it over. It should be able to blow past your finger. Perhaps the piston ring is worn or there are scratches in the barrel.
HT Lead problem? – weak spark. Some HT leads are carbon and can crack up over time.
Sometimes a splash of neat petrol into the air intake can be helpful in getting it to start.
All the above advice seems good.
Compression would be my guess as well. Take the spark plug out and jam your finger over the hole and try turning it over. It should be able to blow past your finger. Perhaps the piston ring is worn or there are scratches in the barrel.
HT Lead problem? – weak spark. Some HT leads are carbon and can crack up over time.
Sometimes a splash of neat petrol into the air intake can be helpful in getting it to start.
1
In reply to Rick Graham:
Tell me about it. My husky is an absolute sod to start, much to the neighbours' amusement
> I think they are all temperamental to some extent...
Tell me about it. My husky is an absolute sod to start, much to the neighbours' amusement
In reply to Ridge:
Yep, same with my husky. Glad it's not just mine. I was told that for smaller saws, Stihl are better, but for bigger ones the huskies win every time. But I love my little husky when it's running. It's just a lovely piece of kit.
Think the secret is really fresh fuel, then it'll cut through anything.
My saw has an annoying habit of wearing the chain brake band sounds have to replace it regularly. I feel a working chain brake is however pretty important.
Yep, same with my husky. Glad it's not just mine. I was told that for smaller saws, Stihl are better, but for bigger ones the huskies win every time. But I love my little husky when it's running. It's just a lovely piece of kit.
Think the secret is really fresh fuel, then it'll cut through anything.
My saw has an annoying habit of wearing the chain brake band sounds have to replace it regularly. I feel a working chain brake is however pretty important.
In reply to markAut:
If you leave your saw running with the brake on a fair amount, I understand that can be a factor.
> My saw has an annoying habit of wearing the chain brake band sounds have to replace it regularly. I feel a working chain brake is however pretty important.
If you leave your saw running with the brake on a fair amount, I understand that can be a factor.
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Depending where you are based, I used a company called Terrier Tools of Wrexham to sort my Ryobi Hedge trimmer that had a carb issue. Top service.
Depending where you are based, I used a company called Terrier Tools of Wrexham to sort my Ryobi Hedge trimmer that had a carb issue. Top service.
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
I've got a Ryobi hedge trimmer with similar behaviour. Stripping and cleaning out the carb sorts it. Old 2 stroke mix gums up and blocks the jets, if you don't use it regularly this is inevitable.
It's a simple job requiring only basic tools (on mine at least...). Just make sure you do it in a clean well lit area as there are small parts to lose. If it's a few years old it's probably worth fitting a new diaphragm, as they harden up. Should be able to get a set online for a few quid.
I've got a Ryobi hedge trimmer with similar behaviour. Stripping and cleaning out the carb sorts it. Old 2 stroke mix gums up and blocks the jets, if you don't use it regularly this is inevitable.
It's a simple job requiring only basic tools (on mine at least...). Just make sure you do it in a clean well lit area as there are small parts to lose. If it's a few years old it's probably worth fitting a new diaphragm, as they harden up. Should be able to get a set online for a few quid.
#1 secret to starting an old 2 stroke:
new spark plug - don't arse about with anything until you've spent £2.50 on a new one - it isn't worth the effort.
#2 secret to starting an old 2 stroke:
new fuel - non leaded seems to "go off" after a few months - I don't know if this is actually true but the empirical evidence of trying to start numerous old 2 strokes is that new fuel definitely helps. If the fuel is more than a few months old ditch it and reload before bothering with anything else*.
Not really anywhere in the same league as the above - dismantle and clean the fuels line / carb / jets (gently). Don't flood the system. Check the spark (hold the spark plug in insulated pliers against the engine, turn over, awkward but you should see the spark. WD40. Mix the oil before starting.
* what to do with a pint of old oily petrol? not sure, but not the drains!
new spark plug - don't arse about with anything until you've spent £2.50 on a new one - it isn't worth the effort.
#2 secret to starting an old 2 stroke:
new fuel - non leaded seems to "go off" after a few months - I don't know if this is actually true but the empirical evidence of trying to start numerous old 2 strokes is that new fuel definitely helps. If the fuel is more than a few months old ditch it and reload before bothering with anything else*.
Not really anywhere in the same league as the above - dismantle and clean the fuels line / carb / jets (gently). Don't flood the system. Check the spark (hold the spark plug in insulated pliers against the engine, turn over, awkward but you should see the spark. WD40. Mix the oil before starting.
* what to do with a pint of old oily petrol? not sure, but not the drains!
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
If you do get it going, it might be worth switching to Aspen petrol. It comes pre-mixed (technically to 50:1, but I had a conversation with them and they said it'd be fine for running a 25:1 saw too), and doesn't go off. I reckon the price is worth it simply for not having to mess around mixing, but plenty of people report that it runs more smoothly and causes fewer long term problems with gumming up.
If you do get it going, it might be worth switching to Aspen petrol. It comes pre-mixed (technically to 50:1, but I had a conversation with them and they said it'd be fine for running a 25:1 saw too), and doesn't go off. I reckon the price is worth it simply for not having to mess around mixing, but plenty of people report that it runs more smoothly and causes fewer long term problems with gumming up.
Post edited at 08:52
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Old 2-stroke fuel doesn't go off, my Ryobi chainsaw refuses to idle whether the fuel is fresh or old. Apart from that it's pretty good and cost me a modest sum of money.
Old 2-stroke fuel doesn't go off, my Ryobi chainsaw refuses to idle whether the fuel is fresh or old. Apart from that it's pretty good and cost me a modest sum of money.
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In reply to Rigid Raider:
I've been told by 2 stroke mechanics (saws, strimmers, mowers) that petrol definitely does go off and is a major offender of carburetor problems, clogging and eventually starting/running problems. I've purchased an additive for the petrol that is meant to prolong its life, can't comment on whether it works or not but worth a try.
I think that the petrol problem is more harmful for modern 2 strokes, Being manufactured to higher tolerances they are more susceptible than an old 2 stroke that can chug away on anything. I have absolutely no proof of this, other than my own experiences.
I've been told by 2 stroke mechanics (saws, strimmers, mowers) that petrol definitely does go off and is a major offender of carburetor problems, clogging and eventually starting/running problems. I've purchased an additive for the petrol that is meant to prolong its life, can't comment on whether it works or not but worth a try.
I think that the petrol problem is more harmful for modern 2 strokes, Being manufactured to higher tolerances they are more susceptible than an old 2 stroke that can chug away on anything. I have absolutely no proof of this, other than my own experiences.
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
2 thoughts on fuel... No idea if it is snake oil or not but I add fuel stabiliser to the petrol my lawnmower runs on and the 2 stroke mixes I use for everything else as it's supposed to stop fuel 'going off'. I use Briggs and Straton brand. Can't tell if it works or not.... Secondly, if using petrol tools sporadically it's best to drain the fuel back out of the tank, start the tool and let it run itself dry. I understand that reduces a good bit of the gumming up the carbs type issues which occur when the fuel remaining in them when you switch off dries out over time.
Hard to tell if one or both of above work or not but I tend not to have any great issues with my petrol powered stuff. Final comment is that if something's hard to start I often find that if it doesn't start on a few 'reasonable' attempts leaving it alone 5 minutes then trying again often works. For what it's worth I did have a Ryobi leaf vac once and it was a genuine pig that never worked and nearly put me off petrol for good.... my current tools are Sthil and they seem rather better.
2 thoughts on fuel... No idea if it is snake oil or not but I add fuel stabiliser to the petrol my lawnmower runs on and the 2 stroke mixes I use for everything else as it's supposed to stop fuel 'going off'. I use Briggs and Straton brand. Can't tell if it works or not.... Secondly, if using petrol tools sporadically it's best to drain the fuel back out of the tank, start the tool and let it run itself dry. I understand that reduces a good bit of the gumming up the carbs type issues which occur when the fuel remaining in them when you switch off dries out over time.
Hard to tell if one or both of above work or not but I tend not to have any great issues with my petrol powered stuff. Final comment is that if something's hard to start I often find that if it doesn't start on a few 'reasonable' attempts leaving it alone 5 minutes then trying again often works. For what it's worth I did have a Ryobi leaf vac once and it was a genuine pig that never worked and nearly put me off petrol for good.... my current tools are Sthil and they seem rather better.
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Tell your local setvicing places to stop be ing arses and check it over.
If they're any good it should take them less than 20 minutes to identify the problem, that is hwen they might be entitled to start talking about a new one.
> My chainsaw doesn't work - or rather my parent's chainsaw of dubious history doesn't work.It's a two stroke Ryobi RSC4046c (if that helps) it's always been a bit tempramental starting, but now will only sputter occasionally. The fuel is petrol with 1:50 two stroke oil.What can I do to make it go again - my pile of firewood is looking forlornly at me, waiting for the chop.The local servicing places laughed at me when I told them it was a Ryobi, and to go and buy something better, or would charge me the same as a replacement chainsaw would cost.I don't object to buying a new one, but if it's fixable then I'd prefer to keep it going.Any advice gratefully received,GTE
Tell your local setvicing places to stop be ing arses and check it over.
If they're any good it should take them less than 20 minutes to identify the problem, that is hwen they might be entitled to start talking about a new one.
3
In reply to Jamie Wakeham:
But if you do NOTE it could necessitate adjusting the tickover speed - which isn't an issue once committed to it ie. swapping back & forth IS a hassle
> If you do get it going, it might be worth switching to Aspen petrol.
But if you do NOTE it could necessitate adjusting the tickover speed - which isn't an issue once committed to it ie. swapping back & forth IS a hassle
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Seen a few mentions of fuel. If you are an infrequent user of the chainsaw (or any other petrol machinery) then I would suggest Aspen 2 or Aspen 4. It is very stable over time and doesn't absorb moisture which can damage the carb(s). It's not the cheapest fuel but worth a look.
Seen a few mentions of fuel. If you are an infrequent user of the chainsaw (or any other petrol machinery) then I would suggest Aspen 2 or Aspen 4. It is very stable over time and doesn't absorb moisture which can damage the carb(s). It's not the cheapest fuel but worth a look.
In reply to Tricky Dicky:
I'm amazed they still make this stuff.
> You could try using a squirt of 'easy start' or similar.............
I'm amazed they still make this stuff.
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Reading the above. Chainsaws aren't that temperamental they simply have a tough job. But if you have compression, fuel and spark you'll almost always get a splutter and can take it forward from there. I suspect all those people who experience problems, their scale of problems are likely to be directly proportional to their level of maintenance and servicing of said equipment.
I have two 560s, a 61 and a 254. 99.9% of the time any of them will start first time, hot or cold. Provided you maintain them. Also I've not used mixed fuel for at least 5 years. Aspen 2 every time.
Ps. I would never waste time driving and buying a new spark plug when you can spend 30mins identifying the real problem. There are a dozen things or more that will fail or wear years before a plug.
Reading the above. Chainsaws aren't that temperamental they simply have a tough job. But if you have compression, fuel and spark you'll almost always get a splutter and can take it forward from there. I suspect all those people who experience problems, their scale of problems are likely to be directly proportional to their level of maintenance and servicing of said equipment.
I have two 560s, a 61 and a 254. 99.9% of the time any of them will start first time, hot or cold. Provided you maintain them. Also I've not used mixed fuel for at least 5 years. Aspen 2 every time.
Ps. I would never waste time driving and buying a new spark plug when you can spend 30mins identifying the real problem. There are a dozen things or more that will fail or wear years before a plug.
Post edited at 22:02
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In reply to Timmd:
Not really, because at tick over the centrifugal clutch won't expand enough for the brake to be under any pressure. Ie. There should be no drive at all at idle speed.
> If you leave your saw running with the brake on a fair amount, I understand that can be a factor.
Not really, because at tick over the centrifugal clutch won't expand enough for the brake to be under any pressure. Ie. There should be no drive at all at idle speed.
2
In reply to markAut:
Don't use the brake to stop the motor at high revs; try to predict when and ease off the revs, before knocking on brake. It will save you fuel as well. First 550/560s had a bad batch of bands.. thin metal or wrong hardness causing a spate of problems, but husqvarna would swap these for free if you asked.
> .My saw has an annoying habit of wearing the chain brake band sounds have to replace it regularly. I feel a working chain brake is however pretty important.
Don't use the brake to stop the motor at high revs; try to predict when and ease off the revs, before knocking on brake. It will save you fuel as well. First 550/560s had a bad batch of bands.. thin metal or wrong hardness causing a spate of problems, but husqvarna would swap these for free if you asked.
2
In reply to summo:
Then I stand corrected. Do you know why leaving the chain brake on might somehow lead to heat being generated and damage to the plastic casing on a chainsaw? That happened to the son of a family friend quite recently.
Then I stand corrected. Do you know why leaving the chain brake on might somehow lead to heat being generated and damage to the plastic casing on a chainsaw? That happened to the son of a family friend quite recently.
In reply to Timmd:
If you left the brake on and revved it then it would get hot?
Without seeing It, it's hard to say. You can have too much saw dust and crud on the engine block cooling fins causing over heating. Air flow around engine is important. Exhaust problems, wrong mix of fuel and it could run very hot, non compatible chain/ bar would result in a very hot chain and bar...
> Then I stand corrected. Do you know why leaving the chain brake on might somehow lead to heat being generated and damage to the plastic casing on a chainsaw? That happened to the son of a family friend quite recently.
If you left the brake on and revved it then it would get hot?
Without seeing It, it's hard to say. You can have too much saw dust and crud on the engine block cooling fins causing over heating. Air flow around engine is important. Exhaust problems, wrong mix of fuel and it could run very hot, non compatible chain/ bar would result in a very hot chain and bar...
Post edited at 22:20
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Ryobi are too new to be making chainsaws for old parents so somewhere there is a catch here, ... not saying it is you son but... also Chainsaws that are temperamental should not be used unless toy ones, the kickback will maim.
Ryobi are too new to be making chainsaws for old parents so somewhere there is a catch here, ... not saying it is you son but... also Chainsaws that are temperamental should not be used unless toy ones, the kickback will maim.
In reply to Ridge:
My Dad's Husky is a pig to start, but the man in his local arb store starts it first time, hand held. On the other hand, my Stihl is super reliable and starts first time and has sawn through tons of logs in the last 4 years.
My Dad's Husky is a pig to start, but the man in his local arb store starts it first time, hand held. On the other hand, my Stihl is super reliable and starts first time and has sawn through tons of logs in the last 4 years.
In reply to summo:
Thanks, interesting and confusing. Apparently it was fairly new, and it was left on and sitting running for a time, and when he went to pick it up there was damage to the casing. It seems he managed to convince the shop he bought it from that it wasn't his fault, but it'd be a waste of fuel to leave a saw sitting running in any case I guess. It's not something I'd happily do.
> If you left the brake on and revved it then it would get hot?Without seeing It, it's hard to say. You can have too much saw dust and crud on the engine block cooling fins causing over heating. Air flow around engine is important. Exhaust problems, wrong mix of fuel and it could run very hot, non compatible chain/ bar would result in a very hot chain and bar...
Thanks, interesting and confusing. Apparently it was fairly new, and it was left on and sitting running for a time, and when he went to pick it up there was damage to the casing. It seems he managed to convince the shop he bought it from that it wasn't his fault, but it'd be a waste of fuel to leave a saw sitting running in any case I guess. It's not something I'd happily do.
Post edited at 23:33
In reply to Timmd:
Odd . Once started the fly wheel keeps spinning as it's critical for both power generation and air flow internally. It does both jobs proportionally, so it does not matter if it's sitting there on idle or max throttle.
> Thanks, interesting and confusing. Apparently it was fairly new, and it was left on and sitting running for a time, and when he went to pick it up there was damage to the casing. It seems he managed to convince the shop he bought it from that it wasn't his fault, but it'd be a waste of fuel to leave a saw sitting running in any case I guess. It's not something I'd happily do.
Odd . Once started the fly wheel keeps spinning as it's critical for both power generation and air flow internally. It does both jobs proportionally, so it does not matter if it's sitting there on idle or max throttle.
In reply to Timmd:
I'm confused by all these burnt out chain brakes. I'm not a heavy user, but surely it's purely a safety device? It's to stop the chain on kickback or to prevent it running inadvertently when carrying with the engine running. There'll be some wear on starting/testing the brake, but do people wander round revving the saw with the brake on, or put the brake on after every cut before the revs have droped and the clutch disengaged?
> Then I stand corrected. Do you know why leaving the chain brake on might somehow lead to heat being generated and damage to the plastic casing on a chainsaw? That happened to the son of a family friend quite recently.
I'm confused by all these burnt out chain brakes. I'm not a heavy user, but surely it's purely a safety device? It's to stop the chain on kickback or to prevent it running inadvertently when carrying with the engine running. There'll be some wear on starting/testing the brake, but do people wander round revving the saw with the brake on, or put the brake on after every cut before the revs have droped and the clutch disengaged?
Other than the occasional liberal interpretations of the original post, most of this seems like good advice.
I've done some fettling and found the spark plug, taken it out - it's a bit grubby, gave it a wipe. held against the engine casing and pulled the cord a few times - no spark.
When the plug is in you can feel the resistance of the compression when the cord is pulled.
recommendations on cleaning/adjusting it?
a bit of fine sandpaper between the contacts?
How do I adjust it? I've tried the collar on the screw thread but it won't shift. Shall I just buy a new one?
#
GTE
I've done some fettling and found the spark plug, taken it out - it's a bit grubby, gave it a wipe. held against the engine casing and pulled the cord a few times - no spark.
When the plug is in you can feel the resistance of the compression when the cord is pulled.
recommendations on cleaning/adjusting it?
a bit of fine sandpaper between the contacts?
How do I adjust it? I've tried the collar on the screw thread but it won't shift. Shall I just buy a new one?
#
GTE
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
"recommendations on cleaning/adjusting it?a bit of fine sandpaper between the contacts?How do I adjust it? I've tried the collar on the screw thread but it won't shift. Shall I just buy a new one?#GTE"
A bit of wet/dry paper between the contacts and then use some feeler gauges to check the gap to whatever the engine recommends. If it's too small bend it open slightly, if too large tap it gently against something to close it a bit then chec again with the feelers.
Take care when re-inserting the plug, screw if in by hand and then tighten gently with a socket, cross threading it could be the end of the engine.
Edit. A new plug won't necessarily be gapped to the spec of your engine as the gap is engine specific and the same plug may be used in numerous engines.
"recommendations on cleaning/adjusting it?a bit of fine sandpaper between the contacts?How do I adjust it? I've tried the collar on the screw thread but it won't shift. Shall I just buy a new one?#GTE"
A bit of wet/dry paper between the contacts and then use some feeler gauges to check the gap to whatever the engine recommends. If it's too small bend it open slightly, if too large tap it gently against something to close it a bit then chec again with the feelers.
Take care when re-inserting the plug, screw if in by hand and then tighten gently with a socket, cross threading it could be the end of the engine.
Edit. A new plug won't necessarily be gapped to the spec of your engine as the gap is engine specific and the same plug may be used in numerous engines.
Post edited at 10:47
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Clean it up just to make sure it is not just manky. If the gap is looking nothing excessive or zero then don't mess with it unless you have tool to measure properly.
Take the side cover off and check the wires that runs from it. You can check the connections as some are just male/ female push fit. They don't vibrate loose but may never have been on properly .
Ignition coils usually last quite a while, so I'd focus on the wires. There should also be very little gap between the fly wheel and coil. 1mm or less.
There are ways to check the ignition coil but you'll need a multi meter and to know what measurement a functioning one should be.
Clean it up just to make sure it is not just manky. If the gap is looking nothing excessive or zero then don't mess with it unless you have tool to measure properly.
Take the side cover off and check the wires that runs from it. You can check the connections as some are just male/ female push fit. They don't vibrate loose but may never have been on properly .
Ignition coils usually last quite a while, so I'd focus on the wires. There should also be very little gap between the fly wheel and coil. 1mm or less.
There are ways to check the ignition coil but you'll need a multi meter and to know what measurement a functioning one should be.
In reply to summo:
After a bit of cleaning (and crucially having the switch in the right position) I got it sparking again, and after cleaning the air filter (or at least, what I thought was the air filter) and dropping some drops of fuel on it, I got it running again, but it would only run for about 10 - 15 seconds before conking out.
I'm not sure where to go next with my meddling.
my starting instructions say leave it running for 30 seconds on half choke and then close it to the "run" position. but I dont' even get this far...
GTE
After a bit of cleaning (and crucially having the switch in the right position) I got it sparking again, and after cleaning the air filter (or at least, what I thought was the air filter) and dropping some drops of fuel on it, I got it running again, but it would only run for about 10 - 15 seconds before conking out.
I'm not sure where to go next with my meddling.
my starting instructions say leave it running for 30 seconds on half choke and then close it to the "run" position. but I dont' even get this far...
GTE
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Don't leave it to idle; once running give it 50% of revs straight away for 30 secs then back off. It should idle without choke then.
It might be a fuel issue, is there a manual primer pump? Under air filter there will be some little rubber tubes heading into carb, these should be in place, look sound etc..
How long was it not running for, full tank of new fuel?
Don't leave it to idle; once running give it 50% of revs straight away for 30 secs then back off. It should idle without choke then.
It might be a fuel issue, is there a manual primer pump? Under air filter there will be some little rubber tubes heading into carb, these should be in place, look sound etc..
How long was it not running for, full tank of new fuel?
Post edited at 13:19
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Check and clean the fuel filter, if this doesn't work check the condition of the fuel pick up inside the tank and between the tank and the carb.
> After a bit of cleaning (and crucially having the switch in the right position) I got it sparking again, and after cleaning the air filter (or at least, what I thought was the air filter) and dropping some drops of fuel on it, I got it running again, but it would only run for about 10 - 15 seconds before conking out.I'm not sure where to go next with my meddling. my starting instructions say leave it running for 30 seconds on half choke and then close it to the "run" position. but I dont' even get this far...GTE
Check and clean the fuel filter, if this doesn't work check the condition of the fuel pick up inside the tank and between the tank and the carb.
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Sounds like progress, how many times did you get it running? it could be air trapped in the carburettor and priming and running it a few times could clear it.
If you get it going and open the throttle does it rev up and sustain itself? it if just dies when idling there are probably idle control valves on the carburettor.
Sounds like progress, how many times did you get it running? it could be air trapped in the carburettor and priming and running it a few times could clear it.
If you get it going and open the throttle does it rev up and sustain itself? it if just dies when idling there are probably idle control valves on the carburettor.
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
Sounds like my hedge trimmer... Strip and clean the carb and check the diaphragm.
> , I got it running again, but it would only run for about 10 - 15 seconds before conking out.
Sounds like my hedge trimmer... Strip and clean the carb and check the diaphragm.
In reply to gethin_allen:
it died while revving. Since then I've stripped and cleaned the carburettor. No improvement. I'm worried I might have put the diaphragm on back to front, but I'm pretty sure that there is only one obvious way to do it.
When I pull the throttle, as well as the mechanism in the carburettor moving, there is movement of a air valve of sorts that lets more air into the piston. However when the trigger is released it doesn't spring back very quickly so the holes are still relatively large when the engine should be at idle. Could this be part of the problem?
I'll check the fuel filter tomorrow. Will it come off for cleaning?
I'm not sure what the fuel pick up is, or where to look for it.
Gte
it died while revving. Since then I've stripped and cleaned the carburettor. No improvement. I'm worried I might have put the diaphragm on back to front, but I'm pretty sure that there is only one obvious way to do it.
When I pull the throttle, as well as the mechanism in the carburettor moving, there is movement of a air valve of sorts that lets more air into the piston. However when the trigger is released it doesn't spring back very quickly so the holes are still relatively large when the engine should be at idle. Could this be part of the problem?
I'll check the fuel filter tomorrow. Will it come off for cleaning?
I'm not sure what the fuel pick up is, or where to look for it.
Gte
In reply to G. Tiger, Esq.:
It should come off easily, the pick up line is the length of pipe in the tank that filter is connected to.
Even the tiniest pinhole in the fuel line will cause the symptoms that you are describing.
> I'll check the fuel filter tomorrow. Will it come off for cleaning?I'm not sure what the fuel pick up is, or where to look for it.
It should come off easily, the pick up line is the length of pipe in the tank that filter is connected to.
Even the tiniest pinhole in the fuel line will cause the symptoms that you are describing.
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