/ Trad and Sports grades

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andyb12354 - on 15 May 2017
Could some one please help me i have recently bought a copy of rockfax west country climbs and looking at the grades on the climbs they are grades both sport and trad grades. I dont mind if the climb is ether. But what i would like to know is the type off climb before i get there. Sport or Trad
2
The Ivanator - on 15 May 2017
In reply to andyb12354:
West Country Climbs predominantly lists Trad routes which give an adjectival grade (HS, VS, HVS, E1, E2 etc) and a technical grade for the hardest move on the climb (this looks more like a Sports grade e.g. 4c, 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a etc.), climbs listed HS 4b or HVS 5a or E2 5c are all Trad climbs.
There are a few areas covered in the guide which do have Sports climbs (Portland crags in the Dorset section plus Brean, Anstey's, The Promenade, Cheddar Gorge) and these will just have a French grade (5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b etc.) there is a table that compares the difficulty between Trad and Sports grades on p.30, although you will find most climbers will dispute and discuss these things ad infinitum...

Edit: Just looked at your logbook which includes Sport to 8a and Trad to E3, anyone climbing those grades and logging them surely understands the grading systems, so not sure what is confusing you.
Post edited at 19:50
Jon Stewart - on 15 May 2017
In reply to andyb12354:

Are you confused by the UK grading system that has 2 parts, e.g. E2 5b. The second part is NOT a sport grade! Does the into to the book not explain UK grades?
Donny M - on 15 May 2017
In reply to andyb12354:
Mate that's the technical grade of the trad route which describes the hardest single move and the letters, HVS E1 etc describe the overall route and relate to protection

Sport routes are usually just a number like 7c or they have an F like F6b and some will have (5b) which means the route has 5 bolts so you take 5 quick draws
Post edited at 22:41
4
ericinbristol - on 15 May 2017
In reply to andyb12354:

You top roped V Diff, dogged E1 and then two weeks later redpointed Raindogs F8a? And don't understand trad and sport grades? https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=124012
hmmm
Ron Rees Davies - on 15 May 2017
In reply to ericinbristol:

Lol. That was a busy month he had back in 2011!
MJAngry on 16 May 2017
In reply to andyb12354:

Rockfax books have a great intro telling you how the grading works.
GrahamD - on 16 May 2017
In reply to MJAngry:

> Rockfax books have a great intro telling you how the grading works.

approximately, anyway.
Scotch Bingington - on 16 May 2017
In reply to Donny M:

> ..... and some will have (5b) which means the route has 5 bolts so you take 5 quick draws

Just did a sports route described as 6b in the guide, so took 6 QDs as per your instructions. Imagine my disappointment when I ran out of them less than half the way up
1
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springfall2008 - on 16 May 2017
In reply to andyb12354:

I somehow smell a Troll, if you climb 8b then you know the answer to this!

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