/ Rock Climbing Mt Kenya

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jon59 - on 21 May 2017
Hi all,

I would be grateful if anyone can help with route descriptions or topos for rock climbing routes on Mt Kenya and surrounding peaks, I climbed the normal route to Nelion and across the gates of the mist to Batian back in 2010. I have trawled the web but can't find anything of value, I have the following books:

Mountain club of Kenya by Iain Allen 98.
Kilimanjaro and Mt Kenya by Cameron Burns 98 + 2006.

Im planning on being there in late Nov / early Dec for three weeks, looking to climb anything up to HVS+.
jezzah - on 15 Jun 2017
In reply to jon59:

Try the regular route up the NE side of Batian which has a couple of HVS pitches on it quite high up just below c.5000m... and if you want there is plenty of in situ gear to use / pull on to speed things up. Then head along the ridge, do the gates, Nelion and abseil down the route you know.
Many of the routes now are not in good condition or very fickle to say the least.
http://www.summitpost.org/normal-route-of-the-ne-side-of-the-batian/258417

cheers
Jez
Red Rover - on 15 Jun 2017
In reply to jezzah:

Why are they not in good condition? Do you mean decaying pegs etc or global warming causing loose rock?
jezzah - on 10:23 Tue
In reply to Red Rover:

They are not in good condition because the snow / ice is so fickle these days. It may well snow at any stage during the year but the original ice routes on the mountain are now not there anymore due to global warming. I am also amazed at how quickly the glaciers are retreating from the mountain.

http://www.summitpost.org/diamond-couloir-sunset-of-a-world-famous-ice-climbing/797065

The rock routes are good but you need to get used to loose rock!

Cheers
Jez
Red Rover - on 13:03 Tue
In reply to jezzah:

OK thanks. Is it loose as in really bad, or is it normal alpine mountain loose? (or how long is a piece of string?)
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jezzah - on 19:56 Tue
In reply to Red Rover:

It all depends on whether you pull on the block that comes away!
The usual route up Batian was not too bad on the steep sections, you just had to be careful with your footwork as you moved across the scramble sections. A plaque in memory of those who did not return from their adventure at the bottom of the route is a salient reminder to tread carefully as you go.

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