UKC

Say what?

The Rebellion Begins (XS 5a)

In reply to radddogg:

typo?

In reply to ianstevens:

Even the photo description says E10, so it must be true!

In reply to radddogg:


Presumably someone stands at the top and throws rocks at you to up the danger factor.

In reply to radddogg:
It must have a death fall.

In reply to radddogg:

It just needs a bit of traffic before the consensus grade settles down. We might be waiting a while.

In reply to radddogg:


Similarly...

A Unique Snowflake (VD 5a)

In reply to radddogg:

Well that's one way of climbing E10.

In reply to radddogg:

Seeing the pic I'll even give it to him at E12!!!!

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
...and if anyone can tell me where the hell in Cleeve Hill that climb is. Fancy seeing what a VDiff 5a looks like.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:


While VDiff 5a is unusual I'd say E10 5a is impossible

In reply to Oogachooga:

I think it's somewhere left (looking up at the crag) of Cracked Wall (E2 5b) but not as far as Loose Arête (S 4a). I'm guessing though really.

Tbh I can't decide which is more unlikely, a vdiff 5a or a three star route lurking on Cleeve Hill!

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Or perhaps? Verandah Buttress (HVD 5b)

In reply to radddogg:

It looks more like E10 2a in the photo.

In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Will take a look cheers.

Yeah, a bit ambitious isnt it, especially away from the main crag!

In reply to radddogg:

If my understanding of grades is correct for e105a you need to fill you pants with hornets, have someone caultapaulting genetically modifed enraged T-rexs at you whilst your belayer plays Russian roulette.

In reply to French Erick:

Looks like he's having trouble getting the cam placed correctly in mud.

In reply to Oogachooga:
OK let me know what it looks like, I'd be interested.

In reply to radddogg:

I think someone needs educating about the XS grade.....

In reply to mrphilipoldham:

VB is not 5b nor HVD... its sort of a guidebook joke. Most climb is as a VS 5c crimp problem and its around the S 4c/HS 5a border if you know the secret trick. The trick way is really hard to spot... I'm super experienced on lower grade grit and tried many times and had to be shown and know others who say the same. Easy to forget as well... I went back last month for the first time this year and initially forgot the subtlety of the secret and had to figure it out again.

In reply to radddogg:

Er.... maybe it's a piss-take?

In reply to radddogg:

It's obviously a bit more run out than three pebble slab

In reply to Offwidth:

I'm suprised you haven't revealed the location of the only E20 10c recorded in a definitive UK guidebook...

In reply to Jamie B: of course its a piss take. Can't believe anybody is even taking it seriously. Frome valley E10? Bloke with mud smeared on face placing a cam in a mud slot whilt pulling on moss crimps?

In reply to beardy mike:
Just like climbing in the Chew Valley, but that's not a piss take

(There are lots of stunning bits too).

In reply to craig h:

Ah, Chew Valley, the place that makes Yorkshire look easy.

In reply to Removed User:

E2/3 with 5a would suffice for that

In reply to beardy mike:


... and photographed by the Pylon King! Bring him back...

In reply to Offwidth:

Yes, I know.. thank you.

In reply to radddogg:

Will be good to see if it makes it into the guidebook which is due out next week, (Must just be a coincidence)

In reply to leland stamper:

What, you mean the guidebook published by an author who's fallen out with the CC and decided to self publish and put up a route called the Rebellion Begins graded E10 5a.... I'm quite looking forward to it! At least it won't be boring.

In reply to beardy mike:

Never boring...

Fuckoffback2yourowncountry U Englishtwats (VS 4b)

In reply to beardy mike:

Yes that guidebook for the Frome valley that is not a Rockfax guide but includes a host of short routes along a very picturesque little river. Not only fallen out with CC but also surprisingly the UKC otherwise he might have been tempted to get some free advertising on their forums.

In reply to leland stamper:

No, he has not fallen out with the CC. He currently has work in hand or planned for at least three forthcoming CC guides. His decision to publish privately various local guides was made with CC blessing. The CC fully recognizes and values his talent and enthusiasm.

In reply to Removed UserJohn Willson:

A heartening post. Have never met him but he seems to have enviable amounts of both talent and enthusiasm. Great if the climbing community can benefit from them.

Mick

In reply to jon:


Not much time to post on here as he has been busy getting the new CC Southern Sandstone book ready for publication 1st June. Look for the UKC advertorial review end of next week or thereafter.

In reply to radddogg:
I stand corrected on all fronts. Serves me right listening to the gravy train. So regard my post as fake news and let no more be said!

In reply to Mick Ward:

Mick

The climbing community has already benefited. As well as being responsible for developing many new climbs and whole crags in the Bristol/Wye region over the last seven years, he has made major contributions, in the form of scripts, action photos, and especially photodiagrams, to most of the CC guides published in that period (including Symonds Yat, three of the Pembroke series, FCQ, Dartmoor, and the Pembroke and South West selectives).

In reply to Fiend:


More fake news. You must mean his (private, non-CC) Frome Sandstone.

The reason for his current absence from this site is hinted at by Jon above.

In reply to Removed Userall:

LOL I just knew there'd be an upgrade to E11 this morning

Not much time to post on here as he has been busy getting the new CC Southern Sandstone book ready for publication 1st June. Look for the UKC advertorial review end of next week or thereafter.

Actually I think he is banned !

In reply to Removed UserJohn Willson:

Apologies, my mistake wrt CC.Pretty certain he is still not loved by UKC though.