UKC

Sirplum gear

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 Kevster 25 May 2017
Morning.
Thinking of sirplum at chee dale. But we will probably be sport climbing the rest of the day.
I assume a single rope is fine on it.
So I don't carry too much gear in, any suggestions on what to take please? I hear it is Insitu threads, anything else required?

Ta. Kev.
 Andy Hardy 25 May 2017
In reply to Kevster:

You'll need a normal trade rack, insitu threads may have been there a long time,or removed, whatever pegs are there will be old and require backup etc.
2 sets of nuts 1-9, and 1 of friends 0-2.5 and a few slings as well as usual QDs is what I'd take. It's not a very long walk in from Topley Pike.
 uphillnow 25 May 2017
In reply to Kevster:

Did it a couple of years ago again. 1st pitch dirty but main pitch great. Could do on a single (?) but would need to be careful of drag! Take plenty of mid length or long slings if you do and a good idea anyway if you use a pair of ropes. There was a lower off above the main pitch, doesn't look like folk continue above. Done some of the sport routes to the left, one was good, very steep at top (Giant?).
 Simon Pelly 25 May 2017
In reply to Kevster:

From memory many years ago....

Would suggest doubles. Seem to recall the second pitch being a strong traverse followed by a chimney exit.

It's been a while mind...

Simon...
 Cake 25 May 2017
In reply to Simon Pelly:

I did it a couple of months ago. I don't remember any cams, but its worth taking at least a set and a half of nuts. Double ropes were definitely sensible. You need to extend runners enough with two. Also, doubles make abbing off the top the simplest and easiest thing to do. Could always do sport on doubles?

Oh yeah, huge walking for the spike.
 mark hounslea 25 May 2017
In reply to Kevster:

Climbed Aplomb last month which finishes up Sirplum. There is a massive fixed wire hawser on the thread (as it is now a lower off for a sports route). I would be happy leading it on a single with a few long slings and a set of nuts
 Cake 25 May 2017
In reply to mark hounslea:

Yeah, that thread inspired so much confidence,I really just wanted to sit on it
 cwarby 26 May 2017
In reply to Kevster:

Why not have a day out onThe Super Indirect (E1 5a)? Just remember who ever belays at the bottom of the 2nd pitch of sirplum, don't pull too hard whilst your second is going down! Trust me its scary.
OP Kevster 26 May 2017
In reply to Kevster:

Thanks for the replies, looks like it'd be sensible to take the trad gear anD ropes, rather than a half set of nuts.
I'll have a little look into the suggestions too.

Have a good weekend y'all.

Kev
 Derek Furze 26 May 2017
In reply to cwarby:

Agreed. Super Indirect is a fantastic route - memorable after 30 years. Ever more spectacular traverses that take in the best of the buttress. We combined it with No Cure for Gangrene and Nuclear Device for a great day. Unfortunately, that particular combination is no more!
 nz Cragrat 27 May 2017
In reply to Kevster:

prusiks
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