UKC

Hi there, I will be in South Devon for a week in July 2017 and want to do some sport climbing, because it's my first time in England, thus no experience regarding trad climbing. Are there any sport climbing routes/crags/cliffs in South Devon? Thx for any help or advice.

In reply to Rainer Beck:
There are three main sports crags in South Devon:

Anstey's Cove (Anstey's Cove is by far the most extensive but has a dearth of quality mid grade routes).

Torbryan Quarry (Torbryan Quarry is much smaller in terms of number of routes but rock is exquisite)

Churston Quarries(Churston Quarries is an interesting venue and useful if it is hot or raining - mainly new routes, often quite characterful).

There are many other sports routes around (Long Quarry Point, Berry Head Quarry, Exile Buttress at Babbacombe, Ash Hole) and these usually have a gem or two. The deep water soloing is amazing however and the water's warming up nicely.

In reply to tomrainbow:

I got the guide 'South West Climbs part II' but it only lists 17 sport climbing routes at long quarry. Is there any guidebook that contains the above mentioned crags?

In reply to Rainer Beck:
Aren't those sport grades there actually for DWS routes? Was just checking lqp on ukc, perhaps some are bolted?

In reply to Rock to Fakey:
I see there's 4 hard ones in shadow beast area, long quarry point, that are not DWS, but the rest?

In reply to Rock to Fakey:

Blue Planet, Christine, Waiting for Charlie and Losing My Religion are all bolted (although I would steer clear of LMR) but the first three are usually climbed as DWSs. Arapiles Oh Arapiles has a couple of bolts too but nobody climbs it that way (and you'd be mad to). The rest are all DWS. The four sports climbs on the Shadowbeast wall are excellent (as are the two 37m long monsters in BHQ).

In reply to Rainer Beck:

Hallo Rainer, go to Anstey's Cove and you will love it I guarantee! Reward yourself with a cream tea at "Taylors" cafe in Ashburton.

In reply to Rainer Beck:
What kind of french grade level are you hoping to climb?
Anstey Cove doesn't have (m)any easier grades. More medium hard.

In reply to Rock to Fakey:
7a OS. But I love projecting. But on vacation I normally go for as many nice routes as possible. Don't like to spend whole week trying one route, but willing to give 1-2 shots in a 7b+ or something like that.

In reply to Rainer Beck:

You'll find what you want at both Ansteys and Torbryan. Seen some very long clip sticks used at Torbryan, not sure if its necessary, perhaps someone was just getting back on a project, i can't do those grades so can't really comment on clipstick need, but they all look like fab routes.
I'd be careful warming up on the 2 easier on far left at torbryan, good potential to deck i thought.

In reply to Rainer Beck:

Thanks guys for your help.