UKC

If you've climbed at Polney Crag before and could let me know of it's potential for climbers learning easy multi-pitch (or not!) I'd appreciate any advice - thanks.

In reply to PieMan:

There are only a few 2-pitch routes there, but it would be OK if you are comfortable at Hard Severe or above: Twisted Rib (VD), Beech Wall (HS) and No match for climb id:3430 are worthwhile. Take care with the descents, especially if they are damp: abseiling off trees may be a sensible option.

In reply to PieMan:
IIRC my first multi-pitch climb not done under the guidance of an instructor was Twisted Rib. It's a pretty amenable VDiff, the main thing to be aware of being a traverse leading to the belay stance between the two pitches. Whoever leads that needs to remember to place gear to protect the second - albeit the risk of them coming off should be fairly slight, but if they did then they could be in for a sizable swing without appropriate gear ahead of them.

ISTR that the route also crosses a couple of others, so you might need to beware of climbers on those routes.

At slightly higher grades I believe Beech Wall is a good Hard Severe, again with a traverse that needs protecting. IIRC it's nearby to Twisted Rib so could be a convenient route to move on to if the first one goes well.

I've also seen people multipitch Kestrel Crack (Severe) although it's not strictly necessary.

I've never set foot on Terminal Buttress. ISTR that a couple of pals of mine managed to stray off route when attempting that one, and ended up having a bit of an epic when they found themselves on distinctly unfriendly terrain (I think there are quite a few Es on more or less the same bit of rock). I've just looked in the database and there are a couple of comments in there suggesting that it should be VS rather than HS. Gary Latter does give it VS 4c in his guidebook.

If you're coming from the Edinburgh direction then there's a couple of routes at The Hawcraig, Aberdour that might suit. Fish Head Arete and Escalator are both VDiffs with sizable ledges half way up. Fish Head Arete is a bit of a non-event in terms of the climbing IMO (not sure why it merits a star) but it has the distinct benefit of being accessible at high tide.

In reply to PieMan:

As has already been said, there aren't many true multipitch routes there - however the crag is high enough that you can split most routes into two parts without it feeling too artificial. Kestrel Crack and Holly Tree Groove being examples of easier routes I have done like this.

I seem to recall that Kestrel Crack and Beech Wall are both very easy but without a huge amount of gear in the upper part, just so you are aware.

(H)Ogg's Hindquarters (name varies between guides) is a little hidden gem of an easy route if you are there - and is probably also long enough to break into two.

In reply to kathrync:

Anon can also be split in to two pitches and is only diff. Unless you go further a field to a mountain crag I'd say dunkeld is your best bet for that sort of area if you want to multi pitch. You also get to ab down.