UKC

anal boulder,Roaches

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 paul mitchell 26 May 2017
Roaches:A couple of new probs and one old problem.

I reckon the boulder should be called the Anal Boulder.It does resemble something a dog left on the pavement,but the probs are ace.As you look up toward the Pugilist,from 100 metres below it on the walkers' footpath,there is a squat boulder on the left.Alternately,head down left from Wombat,about 50 metres.

Turd Right Side. The V O right arête of the boulder.(done before)

Dung Beetle (by Eszter Horvath) V2/3 .The obvious mantel up the left arête of the boulder.

I Can Feel A Snack Coming On V4.Approach the flake crack 5 metres right of the left arête from the right side of the crack. Graded for starting feet on the ground,not on a mat.Have a spotter,falling off high a distinct possibility.

Squeeze the Chocolate V3/4.The mantel using a water polished fingerhold and slopers,two metres left of the right arête,which is Turd Right Side.Good footwork really helps here.

A Font 7c ( ish )awaits a first ascent.The sit down on the left side wall.Starting with hands on the knee high ledge and slapping up the heinous blunt rib.(not the right arête)I almost got it,but no cigar.

If you hate mantels,this is the boulder to help you work on your weakness. Mitch

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