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UK FItClub 533
This week’s post is brought to you by sun burnt legs, and a new inferiority complex based on the fact that humans have climbed El Capitan sans rope. Nevertheless, this is the space for big dreams and the small steps to reach them, so fire away for another week of UKC Fit Club….
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=664804
hms: Your description of working routes sounds very methodical, makes me think I should reassess my approach of flailing wildly at holds hoping something sticks…
biscuit: Good job practicing what you preach and all that!
Richard Popp: Good work taking it easy, how did the first wall session go?
guy127917: Relax and just try hard
AlanLittle: Wish we had a moonboard at the Castle so I could give it a go!
ianstevens: Nice format for your plan- did you schedule 3 back to back days of running this week
for added stress or just life?
Ally Smith: So what’s your plan for Kilnsey this season- new bolt extensions.. Freakshow…?
hokkyo: Awesome, enjoy the trip, I won’t expect an update while you are away!
AJM: Was Wallsend nice and dry? Last time Jen and I went down there it looked like it would take months of sun to dry out properly…
DanDan: Blimey, strong week of training! Look forward to the video…
the sheep: four days out of seven is pretty decent schedule for most mortals
annak: Sounds like it’s all good experience to put in the bank to draw on next time you are 40m above your last piece of pro…
Curious Yellow: Sounds like a pretty productive trip. We’ll be interested to hear what you decide to focus on next and why…
leeboy: Commando Ridge sounds great- how long did it take you?
mattrm: How did you do this week?
The Fasting: Sounds like a good week- if you do 3 bouldering sessions a eek for a while you will soon up your grade/technique/strength
Just Tintin: I expect Jen will be as interested in beta for sea kayaking as climbing…
AWOL: JenJones, ad111
This week’s post is brought to you by sun burnt legs, and a new inferiority complex based on the fact that humans have climbed El Capitan sans rope. Nevertheless, this is the space for big dreams and the small steps to reach them, so fire away for another week of UKC Fit Club….
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=664804
hms: Your description of working routes sounds very methodical, makes me think I should reassess my approach of flailing wildly at holds hoping something sticks…
biscuit: Good job practicing what you preach and all that!
Richard Popp: Good work taking it easy, how did the first wall session go?
guy127917: Relax and just try hard
AlanLittle: Wish we had a moonboard at the Castle so I could give it a go!
ianstevens: Nice format for your plan- did you schedule 3 back to back days of running this week
for added stress or just life?
Ally Smith: So what’s your plan for Kilnsey this season- new bolt extensions.. Freakshow…?
hokkyo: Awesome, enjoy the trip, I won’t expect an update while you are away!
AJM: Was Wallsend nice and dry? Last time Jen and I went down there it looked like it would take months of sun to dry out properly…
DanDan: Blimey, strong week of training! Look forward to the video…
the sheep: four days out of seven is pretty decent schedule for most mortals
annak: Sounds like it’s all good experience to put in the bank to draw on next time you are 40m above your last piece of pro…
Curious Yellow: Sounds like a pretty productive trip. We’ll be interested to hear what you decide to focus on next and why…
leeboy: Commando Ridge sounds great- how long did it take you?
mattrm: How did you do this week?
The Fasting: Sounds like a good week- if you do 3 bouldering sessions a eek for a while you will soon up your grade/technique/strength
Just Tintin: I expect Jen will be as interested in beta for sea kayaking as climbing…
AWOL: JenJones, ad111
1
In reply to guy127917:
Wallsend doesn't seep widely, as far as I know. Sure, there are some drainage lines, but the main problem on the sea level sectors is grease, not seepage. If you go in the right conditions grease burns off pretty quick. I probably dogged Realm of Chaos about lunchtime in unclimbably greasy conditions the day I then red pointed it. You need low humidity, some sunshine, and ideally a breeze, and it'll be climbable a few hours after the sun comes round. That's why I take half days off work to go there - it's not really worth turning up until gone lunch.
- Monday I described last week.
- Wednesday I did a foot on campus decay session to get s measure on the shape of the curve. Surprisingly, it wasn't enormously different from the shape when I went to Wildside a year ago, although with different rungs the level is of course unknown.
- Friday I did a lattice test dummy day, which was very interesting. I met Dan as well which was good. Lots of things to think about.
- Saturday I took the new bike out for a spin on some of the tracks on the heath behind Corfu/Studland and the long drag along the ridge above Corfe. Really nice although I'm terrible at descending.
A good week. Need to write up thoughts from lattice stuff really whilst they are still in my head.
> AJM: Was Wallsend nice and dry? Last time Jen and I went down there it looked like it would take months of sun to dry out properly…
Wallsend doesn't seep widely, as far as I know. Sure, there are some drainage lines, but the main problem on the sea level sectors is grease, not seepage. If you go in the right conditions grease burns off pretty quick. I probably dogged Realm of Chaos about lunchtime in unclimbably greasy conditions the day I then red pointed it. You need low humidity, some sunshine, and ideally a breeze, and it'll be climbable a few hours after the sun comes round. That's why I take half days off work to go there - it's not really worth turning up until gone lunch.
- Monday I described last week.
- Wednesday I did a foot on campus decay session to get s measure on the shape of the curve. Surprisingly, it wasn't enormously different from the shape when I went to Wildside a year ago, although with different rungs the level is of course unknown.
- Friday I did a lattice test dummy day, which was very interesting. I met Dan as well which was good. Lots of things to think about.
- Saturday I took the new bike out for a spin on some of the tracks on the heath behind Corfu/Studland and the long drag along the ridge above Corfe. Really nice although I'm terrible at descending.
A good week. Need to write up thoughts from lattice stuff really whilst they are still in my head.
1
In reply to guy127917:
STG: Get something decent* done on the coming long weekend ... NOPE. Heat / humidity /thunderstorms stopped play. Frankenjura next weekend, not a public holiday so should be better weather.
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Bike one hour.
T: Bike one hour.
Moonboard. A very welcome 15 degree drop in temperature, and the first time in weeks I've felt strong bouldering even though I didn't actually top anything new this session. Or manage to repeat my masterpiece.
Rounded off with some kettlebell shoulder stuff - overhead presses, bent rows etc.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Endurance circuit intervals - a dozen rounds of ~30 moves at around onsight level.
T: rest
F: rest
S: Hot & humid, so headed for a crag at Kallmünz near Regensburg that was supposed to be north facing & shady. It was, but that didn't stop it also being greasy, humid, mossy & generally one of the worst crags I've ever been to (and I grew up in Leicestershire). Seriously considered canning it & going for a walk, but in the end opted for some easy route mileage instead, then did some fingerboard hangs when I got home in order to feel like I'd done something.
S: Rest day in the probably futile hope that tomorrow - public holiday over here - might see a break in the pattern of alternating crushing heat & humidity / apocalyptic thunderstorms we've been having lately.
I have around 20 weeks before my Autumn trip to Kaly, and need to go from being able to redpoint short bouldery routes in the 7a/b range in a handful of goes, to being able to redpoint 40 metre stamina fests in the 7a/b range in a handful of goes. This should be feasible. Constraints: I don't want to sacrifice my summer climbing season by becoming an indoor training monk - and in any case rock mileage is probably what I need most. And my son, who is also my main wall partner, is only interested in bouldering. Need to find ways to work around this.
So, The Plan. Phase one: massive amounts of aerobic base mileage. Won't abandon strength & power sessions completely, they're important for longer term development. But will dial them back to a minimal maintenance level, and tack Lattice style 20 minute endurance sets onto the end of them. Lattice style 20 minute endurance sets twice a week really strikes me as suspiciously easy & too little though. So for the next couple of months my main training focus is going to be as much easy mileage as possible, as recommended by Steve House (https://www.uphillathlete.com/rock-climbing-training-arcing/) and by jwi on a recent ukb thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28009.msg549828.html#msg54982...
STG: Get something decent* done on the coming long weekend ... NOPE. Heat / humidity /thunderstorms stopped play. Frankenjura next weekend, not a public holiday so should be better weather.
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Bike one hour.
T: Bike one hour.
Moonboard. A very welcome 15 degree drop in temperature, and the first time in weeks I've felt strong bouldering even though I didn't actually top anything new this session. Or manage to repeat my masterpiece.
Rounded off with some kettlebell shoulder stuff - overhead presses, bent rows etc.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Endurance circuit intervals - a dozen rounds of ~30 moves at around onsight level.
T: rest
F: rest
S: Hot & humid, so headed for a crag at Kallmünz near Regensburg that was supposed to be north facing & shady. It was, but that didn't stop it also being greasy, humid, mossy & generally one of the worst crags I've ever been to (and I grew up in Leicestershire). Seriously considered canning it & going for a walk, but in the end opted for some easy route mileage instead, then did some fingerboard hangs when I got home in order to feel like I'd done something.
S: Rest day in the probably futile hope that tomorrow - public holiday over here - might see a break in the pattern of alternating crushing heat & humidity / apocalyptic thunderstorms we've been having lately.
I have around 20 weeks before my Autumn trip to Kaly, and need to go from being able to redpoint short bouldery routes in the 7a/b range in a handful of goes, to being able to redpoint 40 metre stamina fests in the 7a/b range in a handful of goes. This should be feasible. Constraints: I don't want to sacrifice my summer climbing season by becoming an indoor training monk - and in any case rock mileage is probably what I need most. And my son, who is also my main wall partner, is only interested in bouldering. Need to find ways to work around this.
So, The Plan. Phase one: massive amounts of aerobic base mileage. Won't abandon strength & power sessions completely, they're important for longer term development. But will dial them back to a minimal maintenance level, and tack Lattice style 20 minute endurance sets onto the end of them. Lattice style 20 minute endurance sets twice a week really strikes me as suspiciously easy & too little though. So for the next couple of months my main training focus is going to be as much easy mileage as possible, as recommended by Steve House (https://www.uphillathlete.com/rock-climbing-training-arcing/) and by jwi on a recent ukb thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28009.msg549828.html#msg54982...
1
In reply to guy127917:
Week 11, 3 weeks to go until Canada. I only have Monday->Thursday this week as have company trip Fri->Sun.
This week went much better than the last couple. I wanted to get back to finger strength progression and also get more mileage in. Also got out at the weekend for some fun onsight practice on Portland.
Monday: 1 arm max hangs progressed a bit further, really relieved after previous week fail, now down to 10kg on the 33mm edge. 6x8mins on 8mins off aerocap. 6 mile run.
Tuesday: TRX session, 4 mile run
Wednesday: 8 min blocks of routes, about 15 minutes rest (belaying) x 6ish? Also tried a couple of fun 7a routes.
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Max hangs focus on pockets- haven't done some of these for a few weeks (as been focussing on 1 arm 4 finger hangs), seems like I have maintained the same level. Ancap reps- 1:30 on (up v3 down v1 up v2 down v0) 3 mins off x 4. Went for another set but skin ruined. 90 mins hot yoga session in the evening nearly killed me.
Saturday: 8 routes onsight at Godnor 6a-6b.
Sunday: 8 routes onsight at the Cuttings 6a-6b. Had a play on Finesse, think it should go fairly easily.
Finger strength tracking: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GTsxKE6-Sa-GIrNiDAv-YMytR-Bdk9sc8ey...
Week 11, 3 weeks to go until Canada. I only have Monday->Thursday this week as have company trip Fri->Sun.
This week went much better than the last couple. I wanted to get back to finger strength progression and also get more mileage in. Also got out at the weekend for some fun onsight practice on Portland.
Monday: 1 arm max hangs progressed a bit further, really relieved after previous week fail, now down to 10kg on the 33mm edge. 6x8mins on 8mins off aerocap. 6 mile run.
Tuesday: TRX session, 4 mile run
Wednesday: 8 min blocks of routes, about 15 minutes rest (belaying) x 6ish? Also tried a couple of fun 7a routes.
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Max hangs focus on pockets- haven't done some of these for a few weeks (as been focussing on 1 arm 4 finger hangs), seems like I have maintained the same level. Ancap reps- 1:30 on (up v3 down v1 up v2 down v0) 3 mins off x 4. Went for another set but skin ruined. 90 mins hot yoga session in the evening nearly killed me.
Saturday: 8 routes onsight at Godnor 6a-6b.
Sunday: 8 routes onsight at the Cuttings 6a-6b. Had a play on Finesse, think it should go fairly easily.
Finger strength tracking: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GTsxKE6-Sa-GIrNiDAv-YMytR-Bdk9sc8ey...
1
In reply to guy127917:
thanks Guy. When I'm really working a route it will all get written down, and I should be able to shut my eyes and climb it in my mind with every hand and foot totally wired. Not at that stage with War on Words yet - I have the hands but am not yet certain of the feet. May have to locate the coloured chalk again.
M - cycle commute. Yoga.
T - cycle commute. Fingerboard. 7/3/6/3 repeaters on 10 different holds, 15 mins rest then 7/3/8/4 with 5 kg assist on the tiny BM1000 edges.
W - cycle commute. UCR, 14 routes done in pairs. Good goes on a new 7a+ but hot sticky conditions meant clipping from a blob was not going to happen. OS of a new 7a.
T - cycle commute.
F - Off to Oakwood. Said hello to AJM & Dandan82, then on to lattice to be a guinea pig for some stuff the lattice guys are wanting numbers for. 1 hand max hangs on test edge using half crimp and then drag. From which I learnt that I never use any grip other than drag, so need to start actually crimping. Then lattice to failure at 3 different angles - 27, 20, 37 - with full recovery between. I have no numbers yet as I wasn't counting. An interesting day.
S - bit of urban walking and gardening, but basically a recovery day.
S - back to UCR. Did routes in singles, which is the first time for a long time. Gosh - they are so much easier when you're only doing 1 at a time! Came off the final move of the 7a+ but now have far better way to do it. Got a 7b second go - would have been a flash but my foot unexpectedly skittered off the side wall whilst I was chalking and chilling half way up. Good session.
thanks Guy. When I'm really working a route it will all get written down, and I should be able to shut my eyes and climb it in my mind with every hand and foot totally wired. Not at that stage with War on Words yet - I have the hands but am not yet certain of the feet. May have to locate the coloured chalk again.
M - cycle commute. Yoga.
T - cycle commute. Fingerboard. 7/3/6/3 repeaters on 10 different holds, 15 mins rest then 7/3/8/4 with 5 kg assist on the tiny BM1000 edges.
W - cycle commute. UCR, 14 routes done in pairs. Good goes on a new 7a+ but hot sticky conditions meant clipping from a blob was not going to happen. OS of a new 7a.
T - cycle commute.
F - Off to Oakwood. Said hello to AJM & Dandan82, then on to lattice to be a guinea pig for some stuff the lattice guys are wanting numbers for. 1 hand max hangs on test edge using half crimp and then drag. From which I learnt that I never use any grip other than drag, so need to start actually crimping. Then lattice to failure at 3 different angles - 27, 20, 37 - with full recovery between. I have no numbers yet as I wasn't counting. An interesting day.
S - bit of urban walking and gardening, but basically a recovery day.
S - back to UCR. Did routes in singles, which is the first time for a long time. Gosh - they are so much easier when you're only doing 1 at a time! Came off the final move of the 7a+ but now have far better way to do it. Got a 7b second go - would have been a flash but my foot unexpectedly skittered off the side wall whilst I was chalking and chilling half way up. Good session.
Post edited at 08:49
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks again for all your hard work on bringing the weekly stats together.
The Kilnsey project is a 4 bolt link-up between the belay of Bullet (8a+) & Freakshow (8c) - should be a meaty number!
Week 23
M - Llandegla; lap of red/black combo; 20km-ish. Legs wibbly from Saturday and core tired from Kilnsey, but still managed to hold on to my personal record of never being overtaken at ‘degla! (cheated with the full-susser making the DH sections faster than usual for any given effort)
T - Proper lazy rest day – most I managed was a couple of km on the bike whilst fettling the crunchy gears post cleaning - stretched
W - 3 rounds barbell complex @ 24kg to warm-up. Then rehab deadhangs; 4x10s BM2K slot-AA@BW+5kg. 4x10s 35degree sloper@BW+5kg. 3x10s back-2@BW-9kg. RH only@BW-4kg; 10s, 10s, 8s, 7s. 4x20 54kg deadlift. 4x10 54kg incline row. 10min core routine.
T - All over DOMS from combined deadlifts & barbell complexes! Quick warm-up at Windgather soloing a few routes I missed out last time around, then drive on to Conies Dale. Productive evening. 7x >Font 7A including 3x FA, one of which is a new line rather than an eliminate. vimeo.com/220068994
F - Felt dehydrated upon waking – should have drunk more on Thursday – did some stretching but main event was celebratory champagne for 3x exciting news with the lady
S - Back to Kilnsey. Much less tiring dogging the project due to draws being in and more familiarity with the moves. Go 1 – Found an extra hold for first strenuous move, and did the first crux without any rope tension (improvement from last week). Go 2 – Linked first 3 bolts (chains to halfway along new section) and did 2nd crux to FS crux in a oner too (5 bolts – more moderate – still one weird move I want to optimise). Dogged FS crux into Mandela and improved upon last week, but rope drag was a ballache – need different tactics on this bit. Go 3 - Did the f7b start Southern Softie (7b) to warm-down/strip draws.
S - Lazy day of local market, gardening and BBQ’ing like a boss
STG – end of June:
Fix finger – get back to something approaching full strength – f7C pain free?
Do some big links on the Kilnsey roof project – pre-RP crux knee-scum to chains and another link of floor to junction with Freakshow would be amazing (2nd of these feels more promising – 5th June)
Do bolted projects on Orme (7a+ & 7b/+?)
Do lots of shoulder & elbow rehab
Do lots of core – static & dynamic
Thanks again for all your hard work on bringing the weekly stats together.
The Kilnsey project is a 4 bolt link-up between the belay of Bullet (8a+) & Freakshow (8c) - should be a meaty number!
Week 23
M - Llandegla; lap of red/black combo; 20km-ish. Legs wibbly from Saturday and core tired from Kilnsey, but still managed to hold on to my personal record of never being overtaken at ‘degla! (cheated with the full-susser making the DH sections faster than usual for any given effort)
T - Proper lazy rest day – most I managed was a couple of km on the bike whilst fettling the crunchy gears post cleaning - stretched
W - 3 rounds barbell complex @ 24kg to warm-up. Then rehab deadhangs; 4x10s BM2K slot-AA@BW+5kg. 4x10s 35degree sloper@BW+5kg. 3x10s back-2@BW-9kg. RH only@BW-4kg; 10s, 10s, 8s, 7s. 4x20 54kg deadlift. 4x10 54kg incline row. 10min core routine.
T - All over DOMS from combined deadlifts & barbell complexes! Quick warm-up at Windgather soloing a few routes I missed out last time around, then drive on to Conies Dale. Productive evening. 7x >Font 7A including 3x FA, one of which is a new line rather than an eliminate. vimeo.com/220068994
F - Felt dehydrated upon waking – should have drunk more on Thursday – did some stretching but main event was celebratory champagne for 3x exciting news with the lady
S - Back to Kilnsey. Much less tiring dogging the project due to draws being in and more familiarity with the moves. Go 1 – Found an extra hold for first strenuous move, and did the first crux without any rope tension (improvement from last week). Go 2 – Linked first 3 bolts (chains to halfway along new section) and did 2nd crux to FS crux in a oner too (5 bolts – more moderate – still one weird move I want to optimise). Dogged FS crux into Mandela and improved upon last week, but rope drag was a ballache – need different tactics on this bit. Go 3 - Did the f7b start Southern Softie (7b) to warm-down/strip draws.
S - Lazy day of local market, gardening and BBQ’ing like a boss
STG – end of June:
Fix finger – get back to something approaching full strength – f7C pain free?
Do some big links on the Kilnsey roof project – pre-RP crux knee-scum to chains and another link of floor to junction with Freakshow would be amazing (2nd of these feels more promising – 5th June)
Do bolted projects on Orme (7a+ & 7b/+?)
Do lots of shoulder & elbow rehab
Do lots of core – static & dynamic
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers for the positive feedback Guy, I've been doing labwork the last few weeks which means I have lots of free 5 - 10 min chunks of free time, perfect for sinking into non-work activities such as writing colour coded training plans. The running schedule was a bit of both - trying to put the stress of a long run on my body without having the block of time to actually do one. Also to fit in around the rest of my life. Having said that, the plan is designed to be flexible so I can move sessions around if stuff pops up, although some components are clearly date-specific. I'm already on version 2, and I'm sure it will be up to around 20 editions by September.
Anyhow, onto what I actually did last week:
Plan review: completed all sessions with a minor twist and an extra one. Chuffed with the positive start, although motivation is always easy to come by at the start.
Mon:
Core session from Extreme Alpinsim
Fingerboard: Beasty 5A (4 reps, 1 set) to warm the fingers then 6A (2 reps 2 sets)
Tue:
Yoga 40 mins
Got stuck in work until 8, no training as a result
Weds:
Yoga 15 mins
Run 8km easy effort
Bike 33.8km, 540m
Thurs:
Yoga 30 mins
Run: 6 x hill reps (it's off road, and about 80m gain in 600m) at an average of 3:10 for each. Warm up and down to total 9.4km.
Fri:
Yoga 50 mins
Rest (planned!)
Sat:
Swapped by 3km intervals for Parkrun at a semi-hard effort - did 19:18 then ran an extra 10.3km.
Sunny, so went out on the bike - the additonal session - 24.6km with a couple of climbs.
Fingerboard straight off the bike: 5A as a warm up (4 reps 1 set) and then tried the 6B set (2 reps 1 set) which I manged fine.
Sun:
Beacon in the morning as it was a bit drizzly - boulders <6B (first go) and routes <6b
Went outside after lunch to the slate, got 5 routes in (5+, 5+, 6b, 6b+ and "E2"). Found them all ok, nothing too tricky.
Weight is 69.8 kg still, seems to be working well for me.
STG (end of June):
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone
Get 10MTT down to 27:00 - close but no cigar (yet)
Get "Gold" standard (<4:15) for Cycle Fest Sportive (100 km) - tick
Stick to the plan each week - 1/5
MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in
LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Do each and every session on the plan - 1/16
Cheers for the positive feedback Guy, I've been doing labwork the last few weeks which means I have lots of free 5 - 10 min chunks of free time, perfect for sinking into non-work activities such as writing colour coded training plans. The running schedule was a bit of both - trying to put the stress of a long run on my body without having the block of time to actually do one. Also to fit in around the rest of my life. Having said that, the plan is designed to be flexible so I can move sessions around if stuff pops up, although some components are clearly date-specific. I'm already on version 2, and I'm sure it will be up to around 20 editions by September.
Anyhow, onto what I actually did last week:
Plan review: completed all sessions with a minor twist and an extra one. Chuffed with the positive start, although motivation is always easy to come by at the start.
Mon:
Core session from Extreme Alpinsim
Fingerboard: Beasty 5A (4 reps, 1 set) to warm the fingers then 6A (2 reps 2 sets)
Tue:
Yoga 40 mins
Got stuck in work until 8, no training as a result
Weds:
Yoga 15 mins
Run 8km easy effort
Bike 33.8km, 540m
Thurs:
Yoga 30 mins
Run: 6 x hill reps (it's off road, and about 80m gain in 600m) at an average of 3:10 for each. Warm up and down to total 9.4km.
Fri:
Yoga 50 mins
Rest (planned!)
Sat:
Swapped by 3km intervals for Parkrun at a semi-hard effort - did 19:18 then ran an extra 10.3km.
Sunny, so went out on the bike - the additonal session - 24.6km with a couple of climbs.
Fingerboard straight off the bike: 5A as a warm up (4 reps 1 set) and then tried the 6B set (2 reps 1 set) which I manged fine.
Sun:
Beacon in the morning as it was a bit drizzly - boulders <6B (first go) and routes <6b
Went outside after lunch to the slate, got 5 routes in (5+, 5+, 6b, 6b+ and "E2"). Found them all ok, nothing too tricky.
Weight is 69.8 kg still, seems to be working well for me.
STG (end of June):
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone
Get 10MTT down to 27:00 - close but no cigar (yet)
Get "Gold" standard (<4:15) for Cycle Fest Sportive (100 km) - tick
Stick to the plan each week - 1/5
MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in
LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Do each and every session on the plan - 1/16
In reply to guy127917:
Ah yes should also mention I will need to cede doing the top post for the duration of Canada trip (23rd June to 31st July)- just not sure I will have internet access or laptop easily available during that time...
Ah yes should also mention I will need to cede doing the top post for the duration of Canada trip (23rd June to 31st July)- just not sure I will have internet access or laptop easily available during that time...
In reply to AJM:
So...
Max strength:
- I am noticeably stronger side on than front on (2-3kg). Suggests some work on the shoulders, as ever.
- Dan is beast strong. But actually, my fingers? are pulling the same load as his, give or take. So maybe it's just that I've invested more of my time in my beer gut than he has? As a more serious conclusion, I'm by no means fighting weight currently so the feedback from both the raw measure and the comparison is a good motivator to change that. ~3kg better strength would apparently take me close to bhag sort of levels and knowing that diet can pick up a chunk of that is very motivating.
- my predicted boulder grade once again confirms serious underachievement. There's something between me and an extra ~3 grades and apparently it isn't my fingers...
Lattices:
- I have done no fitness training in a long time, but nevertheless slightly exceeded the move count I managed several years ago in the run up to Kalymnos.
- I am very unfit. My score on a 20 degree angle wasn't very different from that on the 27 degree - a marked difference from Dan - which suggests that at the minute my aerobic threshold is a long way below 20 degree angle. The differential should increase with more fitness training...
- a 37 degree lattice is very steep. I didn't get anything especially notable from this one - I was basically in line with Dan as a relative shift from the 27 so no easy outlier info to pick up.
> Need to write up thoughts from lattice stuff really whilst they are still in my head.
So...
Max strength:
- I am noticeably stronger side on than front on (2-3kg). Suggests some work on the shoulders, as ever.
- Dan is beast strong. But actually, my fingers? are pulling the same load as his, give or take. So maybe it's just that I've invested more of my time in my beer gut than he has? As a more serious conclusion, I'm by no means fighting weight currently so the feedback from both the raw measure and the comparison is a good motivator to change that. ~3kg better strength would apparently take me close to bhag sort of levels and knowing that diet can pick up a chunk of that is very motivating.
- my predicted boulder grade once again confirms serious underachievement. There's something between me and an extra ~3 grades and apparently it isn't my fingers...
Lattices:
- I have done no fitness training in a long time, but nevertheless slightly exceeded the move count I managed several years ago in the run up to Kalymnos.
- I am very unfit. My score on a 20 degree angle wasn't very different from that on the 27 degree - a marked difference from Dan - which suggests that at the minute my aerobic threshold is a long way below 20 degree angle. The differential should increase with more fitness training...
- a 37 degree lattice is very steep. I didn't get anything especially notable from this one - I was basically in line with Dan as a relative shift from the 27 so no easy outlier info to pick up.
1
In reply to AJM:
I found 37degrees absolutely grim - even really digging in with my toes I was fighting to keep my feet on, and then I forgot where to put them, which was a bit disastrous!
I found 37degrees absolutely grim - even really digging in with my toes I was fighting to keep my feet on, and then I forgot where to put them, which was a bit disastrous!
1
In reply to AJM:
Interesting stuff.
Your lack of boulder prowess is a slight conundrum though - what's the difference between you and me? For about the same finger strength; I'm over-achieving and you're under achieving in boulder grades - is it an-cap that's the biggest difference?
Any other pearls of wisdom? Differences between Dan and hms for instance?
p.s. any gory blood-blisters from the textured lattice cross-pieces?
Interesting stuff.
Your lack of boulder prowess is a slight conundrum though - what's the difference between you and me? For about the same finger strength; I'm over-achieving and you're under achieving in boulder grades - is it an-cap that's the biggest difference?
Any other pearls of wisdom? Differences between Dan and hms for instance?
p.s. any gory blood-blisters from the textured lattice cross-pieces?
In reply to hms:
Work your weaknesses...
...with such obvious foot-holds it should be reflexive body-positioning - me thinks you need some extra time on the Mothership board at TCA (or Gollums cave?)
> I found 37degrees absolutely grim - even really digging in with my toes I was fighting to keep my feet on, and then I forgot where to put them, which was a bit disastrous!
Work your weaknesses...
...with such obvious foot-holds it should be reflexive body-positioning - me thinks you need some extra time on the Mothership board at TCA (or Gollums cave?)
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy, I can fill in FitClub hosting duties for your Canada trip if you'd like.
Well, I got a bit of a telling off about the video, he read my post from last week and wasn't happy, it seems I can't hide from Coach Tom!
He likes a party trick as much as the next person but was concerned that trying hard on a quite dangerous and ultimately vain trick was a bad idea at this stage of training, so no more mono levers for me! (Sorry Tom)
M: Max Strength conditioning; 3 rep weighted pull ups, horizontal low row, front lever lifts, max dyno jumps
T: Indoor boulder; 7 reps of problem with 2.5 min rest. 3 sets. Did part of this on the Ballroom's moonboard which is finally available for use. Couldn't resist trying a few more problems after the session, managed to flash a V7! The problems definitely felt a little less harshly graded than last time I used my board, I suppose I could be getting stronger...
Also, while warming up managed to hang a large campus rung on middle fingers, mono hanging on a rung is a LOT harder than doing it in a small pocket as there is nothing to twist or drag against, but potentially useful for maybe an oversized mono hold that's 1.5 fingers big?
W: Indoor boulder; 10 move problem, 4 reps with 20 secs rest. 1.5 sets. Some new problems had been set so I couldn't resist trying a few, ended up on a hard vertical volume problem but the super grippy volumes destroyed my tips!
T: Rest
F: Lattice guinea pig day at Oakwood (Nice centre), I actually met some FitClubbers! Very nice to meet both AJM (and family) and briefly HMS too.
Managed to equal my one-arm hang at +4kg, like AJM said, although he hung a lower bodyweight %, our maximal force was the same at 69kg, so I'm just a beast by way of being a scrawny bugger...
I added a few moves to my 27.5 deg board score, 114 up from 107 which was great as I'm in a strength phase at the moment, which means I'm holding onto a good base level of endurance.
The other two angles were less significant for me as I had nothing to compare them to, all I can say is doing 230+ moves on the 20 deg board was one of the most agonising things I've ever done. I'd say I was in danger of coming off and fighting to stay on for the last 80 moves! Agony.
S: Portland; I woke up and managed to tweak my neck really badly by performing that well-known dangerous activity of sitting in bed and drinking tea. I necked a couple of painkillers and read a book on mobility on the way to the crag, I'm going to try some foam roller stuff on my upper spine to see if I can help things.
Got on Illusions (7c+) again and we finally had good conditions! Great conditions in fact, bone dry air with a good breeze, it didn't even get damp when the shade came around. Unfortunately, I had zero skin from the deadly volume problem earlier in the week, so I had to tape 7 of my tips, not ideal on tiny crimps! I wanted to have a few goes anyway to tidy up the beta, which was really helpful.
I was probably a little fatigued from the Lattice the day before, but I still managed the route in one hang, having to squeeze extra hard on a semi-rest before the top crux move because I had no feedback through my taped tips meant I was extra drained for the last hard throw.
Another good conditions day and it will go comfortably I think, it's a great route.
S: Fingerboard; 2rm pull ups and 7/3 weighted hangs on AA slot. Had to do the hangs on a larger hold as my fingers were so sore!
Core.
I missed a 2 on 1 off session which I will try to include this coming week.
In other news, I may have a new job which will mean I can live at home again! No more weekly commuting to the Midlands and I get to see Mrs Dandan every day! Oh, plus it's significantly better money (20% rate rise) and only 4 days a week...
I will miss all my climbing friends in the Midlands, they are a great bunch of people, and they even have a decent boulder wall in Cov now, but it will be good to be home. Looks like I might be using the Project in Poole some evenings after work, along with Boulder Shack in Southampton and Calshot for ropes. Plus plans are afoot for an extension to the bouldershed!
Thanks Guy, I can fill in FitClub hosting duties for your Canada trip if you'd like.
> DanDan: Blimey, strong week of training! Look forward to the video…
Well, I got a bit of a telling off about the video, he read my post from last week and wasn't happy, it seems I can't hide from Coach Tom!
He likes a party trick as much as the next person but was concerned that trying hard on a quite dangerous and ultimately vain trick was a bad idea at this stage of training, so no more mono levers for me! (Sorry Tom)
M: Max Strength conditioning; 3 rep weighted pull ups, horizontal low row, front lever lifts, max dyno jumps
T: Indoor boulder; 7 reps of problem with 2.5 min rest. 3 sets. Did part of this on the Ballroom's moonboard which is finally available for use. Couldn't resist trying a few more problems after the session, managed to flash a V7! The problems definitely felt a little less harshly graded than last time I used my board, I suppose I could be getting stronger...
Also, while warming up managed to hang a large campus rung on middle fingers, mono hanging on a rung is a LOT harder than doing it in a small pocket as there is nothing to twist or drag against, but potentially useful for maybe an oversized mono hold that's 1.5 fingers big?
W: Indoor boulder; 10 move problem, 4 reps with 20 secs rest. 1.5 sets. Some new problems had been set so I couldn't resist trying a few, ended up on a hard vertical volume problem but the super grippy volumes destroyed my tips!
T: Rest
F: Lattice guinea pig day at Oakwood (Nice centre), I actually met some FitClubbers! Very nice to meet both AJM (and family) and briefly HMS too.
Managed to equal my one-arm hang at +4kg, like AJM said, although he hung a lower bodyweight %, our maximal force was the same at 69kg, so I'm just a beast by way of being a scrawny bugger...
I added a few moves to my 27.5 deg board score, 114 up from 107 which was great as I'm in a strength phase at the moment, which means I'm holding onto a good base level of endurance.
The other two angles were less significant for me as I had nothing to compare them to, all I can say is doing 230+ moves on the 20 deg board was one of the most agonising things I've ever done. I'd say I was in danger of coming off and fighting to stay on for the last 80 moves! Agony.
S: Portland; I woke up and managed to tweak my neck really badly by performing that well-known dangerous activity of sitting in bed and drinking tea. I necked a couple of painkillers and read a book on mobility on the way to the crag, I'm going to try some foam roller stuff on my upper spine to see if I can help things.
Got on Illusions (7c+) again and we finally had good conditions! Great conditions in fact, bone dry air with a good breeze, it didn't even get damp when the shade came around. Unfortunately, I had zero skin from the deadly volume problem earlier in the week, so I had to tape 7 of my tips, not ideal on tiny crimps! I wanted to have a few goes anyway to tidy up the beta, which was really helpful.
I was probably a little fatigued from the Lattice the day before, but I still managed the route in one hang, having to squeeze extra hard on a semi-rest before the top crux move because I had no feedback through my taped tips meant I was extra drained for the last hard throw.
Another good conditions day and it will go comfortably I think, it's a great route.
S: Fingerboard; 2rm pull ups and 7/3 weighted hangs on AA slot. Had to do the hangs on a larger hold as my fingers were so sore!
Core.
I missed a 2 on 1 off session which I will try to include this coming week.
In other news, I may have a new job which will mean I can live at home again! No more weekly commuting to the Midlands and I get to see Mrs Dandan every day! Oh, plus it's significantly better money (20% rate rise) and only 4 days a week...
I will miss all my climbing friends in the Midlands, they are a great bunch of people, and they even have a decent boulder wall in Cov now, but it will be good to be home. Looks like I might be using the Project in Poole some evenings after work, along with Boulder Shack in Southampton and Calshot for ropes. Plus plans are afoot for an extension to the bouldershed!
1
In reply to guy127917:
First up a question - How many pull-ups can you do and what is the hardest boulder grade you can climb & do you think there is a reasonable link between the two?
I was chatting with some of the guys and girls at the wall and the conversation turned to pull-ups. I had no idea how many I could do, so I tried and managed 6. One of the ladies who climbs a little harder than me managed 10 and most of the guys managed between 15 and 40. Am I unusually weak at pull-ups?
Apologies for missing last week.
The week before last I went back to try valtiovierailu (7a) which felt easy last time I was there but I didn't want tot top out without some spotters, this time it was 15 degrees warmer and I couldn't hold the top sloper . . .
Last week:
M - Rest
T - Indoor bouldering + fingerboard and pull-ups
W - Rest
T - Indoor bouldering + fingerboard and pull-ups
F - rest
S - went to Uusi Sipoo to try alcoholocaust (7b) and kun Jari koskee (7a) both of which are super classic. I felt pretty weak, I think alcoholocaust will go if I can sort out the reachy move. I should have done Kun Jari but I was too tired and couldn't stick the dyno to the top.
S - Rest
First up a question - How many pull-ups can you do and what is the hardest boulder grade you can climb & do you think there is a reasonable link between the two?
I was chatting with some of the guys and girls at the wall and the conversation turned to pull-ups. I had no idea how many I could do, so I tried and managed 6. One of the ladies who climbs a little harder than me managed 10 and most of the guys managed between 15 and 40. Am I unusually weak at pull-ups?
Apologies for missing last week.
The week before last I went back to try valtiovierailu (7a) which felt easy last time I was there but I didn't want tot top out without some spotters, this time it was 15 degrees warmer and I couldn't hold the top sloper . . .
Last week:
M - Rest
T - Indoor bouldering + fingerboard and pull-ups
W - Rest
T - Indoor bouldering + fingerboard and pull-ups
F - rest
S - went to Uusi Sipoo to try alcoholocaust (7b) and kun Jari koskee (7a) both of which are super classic. I felt pretty weak, I think alcoholocaust will go if I can sort out the reachy move. I should have done Kun Jari but I was too tired and couldn't stick the dyno to the top.
S - Rest
In reply to ad111:
About 13 and v5. I think there is a link (if you can't do 10 you probably need to train that kind of arm/back strength/endurance as part of the chain to hit higher grades) but once you get to maybe 20, training it more isnt worth the effort. Weighted pullups, on smaller edges, with less fingers, I think will give you a stronger indicator of boulder grade...
About 13 and v5. I think there is a link (if you can't do 10 you probably need to train that kind of arm/back strength/endurance as part of the chain to hit higher grades) but once you get to maybe 20, training it more isnt worth the effort. Weighted pullups, on smaller edges, with less fingers, I think will give you a stronger indicator of boulder grade...
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, another week gone and managed to compress all my activity into four days again. Mainly dictated by the bank holiday, half term (the wife having the car all week to ferry kiddies around) and a busy weekend with the in-laws visiting on Saturday and my youngest two having a joint gymnastics birthday party on Sunday:
Anyway week went as follows;
Monday, bank holiday so entertaining the family, working in the garden and a trip to the pub.
Tuesday, back to work so 16km ride in and 26km ride home,
Wednesday, 16km ride in, 1km lunchtime swim and 29km ride home,
Thursday, 16km ride in, 1km late morning swim and an afternoon family swim session with the kids.
Friday, 16km ride in, 1km lunchtime swim and 19km ride home. By the end of the ride/week my legs were heavy and my arse sore.
So that was it for the week exercise wise, however checking the stats I managed 7 hours 15 of cardio in the week so will happily take that. Also as we are in June and nearing the half way point of the year then a check on my targets set in January is in order. Looks like Im going to have to re asses some end points
Ride Goal 3000 km Total 1388.8 Remaining 1611.2
Swim Goal 150 km Total 88 Remaining 62
Run Goal 300 km Total 273.32 Remaining 26.68
> the sheep: four days out of seven is pretty decent schedule for most mortals
Cheers Guy, another week gone and managed to compress all my activity into four days again. Mainly dictated by the bank holiday, half term (the wife having the car all week to ferry kiddies around) and a busy weekend with the in-laws visiting on Saturday and my youngest two having a joint gymnastics birthday party on Sunday:
Anyway week went as follows;
Monday, bank holiday so entertaining the family, working in the garden and a trip to the pub.
Tuesday, back to work so 16km ride in and 26km ride home,
Wednesday, 16km ride in, 1km lunchtime swim and 29km ride home,
Thursday, 16km ride in, 1km late morning swim and an afternoon family swim session with the kids.
Friday, 16km ride in, 1km lunchtime swim and 19km ride home. By the end of the ride/week my legs were heavy and my arse sore.
So that was it for the week exercise wise, however checking the stats I managed 7 hours 15 of cardio in the week so will happily take that. Also as we are in June and nearing the half way point of the year then a check on my targets set in January is in order. Looks like Im going to have to re asses some end points
Ride Goal 3000 km Total 1388.8 Remaining 1611.2
Swim Goal 150 km Total 88 Remaining 62
Run Goal 300 km Total 273.32 Remaining 26.68
Post edited at 15:32
In reply to Dandan:
That would be great, thanks
Haha, well at least he cares eh! Maybe he should talk with Magnus Midtbo (https://www.instagram.com/p/BElg4V5IuHQ/?taken-by=magmidt&hl=en etc)
> Thanks Guy, I can fill in FitClub hosting duties for your Canada trip if you'd like.
That would be great, thanks
> Well, I got a bit of a telling off about the video, he read my post from last week and wasn't happy, it seems I can't hide from Coach Tom!
> He likes a party trick as much as the next person but was concerned that trying hard on a quite dangerous and ultimately vain trick was a bad idea at this stage of training, so no more mono levers for me! (Sorry Tom)
> He likes a party trick as much as the next person but was concerned that trying hard on a quite dangerous and ultimately vain trick was a bad idea at this stage of training, so no more mono levers for me! (Sorry Tom)
Haha, well at least he cares eh! Maybe he should talk with Magnus Midtbo (https://www.instagram.com/p/BElg4V5IuHQ/?taken-by=magmidt&hl=en etc)
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I assume that your absolute ancap is quite high compared to mine, even of mine is quite high proportionally. I also tend to assume I lack burl and power. But I don't really know!
HMS is being coy with numbers so I don't know
No blood blisters from me - I wasn't on for long enough
I assume that your absolute ancap is quite high compared to mine, even of mine is quite high proportionally. I also tend to assume I lack burl and power. But I don't really know!
HMS is being coy with numbers so I don't know
No blood blisters from me - I wasn't on for long enough
1
In reply to AJM:
I got a regular blister on one pinky but I've managed to resist popping it so far...
I got a regular blister on one pinky but I've managed to resist popping it so far...
In reply to AJM:
Can't imagine you need more ancap unless you're planning a trip to Parisella's or a traverse project somewhere. Definitely not for those Devon projects you wrote about. I suspect your shortfalls are much more likely, depending on the problem, to be shoulder power, core (how are you on a 45 degree woodie with poor feet?), lack of explosiveness, climbing too slowly, lack of flexibility or weak technique (eg knowing the best ways to use things like heels and toe hooks, or really subtle body repositioning of the sort that doesn't get tested much on routes) - or tactics. Your fingers have been strong enough to climb V8 for years.
The good news is you can probably train all the above just by bouldering hard
Edit:
PS though your point about grip types is interesting. Do you favour something a lot? Versatility is useful in bouldering because the moves are usually too hard to be able to get around them using the wrong grip type for the hold. The extreme example is numpties who full crimp on grit slopers.
Edit2: the above wasn't meant to mean I think you are bad at that stuff, just that one or more of those things is (probably) the culprit, rather than fingers/forearms.
As an interesting counter-example by the way, I have a friend who claims his lattice score puts him in the Font 6C range, and owns a lattice edge to test himself on, but who has climbed several Font 7Cs (in the same time period). He has awesome shoulder power. Go figure.
Can't imagine you need more ancap unless you're planning a trip to Parisella's or a traverse project somewhere. Definitely not for those Devon projects you wrote about. I suspect your shortfalls are much more likely, depending on the problem, to be shoulder power, core (how are you on a 45 degree woodie with poor feet?), lack of explosiveness, climbing too slowly, lack of flexibility or weak technique (eg knowing the best ways to use things like heels and toe hooks, or really subtle body repositioning of the sort that doesn't get tested much on routes) - or tactics. Your fingers have been strong enough to climb V8 for years.
The good news is you can probably train all the above just by bouldering hard
Edit:
PS though your point about grip types is interesting. Do you favour something a lot? Versatility is useful in bouldering because the moves are usually too hard to be able to get around them using the wrong grip type for the hold. The extreme example is numpties who full crimp on grit slopers.
Edit2: the above wasn't meant to mean I think you are bad at that stuff, just that one or more of those things is (probably) the culprit, rather than fingers/forearms.
As an interesting counter-example by the way, I have a friend who claims his lattice score puts him in the Font 6C range, and owns a lattice edge to test himself on, but who has climbed several Font 7Cs (in the same time period). He has awesome shoulder power. Go figure.
Post edited at 23:03
2
In reply to Si dH:
I'm going to frame this somewhere in case I'm ever in need of a pep talk!
I tend to agree, mind you. I did intend to do some pure gym work this winter but actually if I'm at home I can do weights//fingerboard/etc whilst also minding miniAJM which is more helpful.....
As to your example, Ollie did make the point that it is based on what goes into their database so there's potential for a huge range of styles, lengths, hold types, regional grading systems etc etc to be in play.
> I suspect your shortfalls are much more likely, depending on the problem, to be shoulder power, core, lack of explosiveness, climbing too slowly, lack of flexibility or weak technique
I'm going to frame this somewhere in case I'm ever in need of a pep talk!
I tend to agree, mind you. I did intend to do some pure gym work this winter but actually if I'm at home I can do weights//fingerboard/etc whilst also minding miniAJM which is more helpful.....
As to your example, Ollie did make the point that it is based on what goes into their database so there's potential for a huge range of styles, lengths, hold types, regional grading systems etc etc to be in play.
In reply to guy127917:
Not sure if I'm late to the party on this but really enjoying the Sasha di Giulian Moby pull-up challenge: youtube.com/watch?v=0lPgczoJT00&
For some reason I can get 7 sets into this when I thought my pull-up PB was 5...only another 23 to go...would probably help if I wasn't so heavy! anyone else had a go?
Not sure if I'm late to the party on this but really enjoying the Sasha di Giulian Moby pull-up challenge: youtube.com/watch?v=0lPgczoJT00&
For some reason I can get 7 sets into this when I thought my pull-up PB was 5...only another 23 to go...would probably help if I wasn't so heavy! anyone else had a go?
In reply to guy127917:
I am getting stronger, actually. I can almost send problems that I couldn't do earlier now, indoors. Especially overhangs I'm starting to figure out.
M - Tempo run. Ran 7 km in about 40 minutes, with 10 minute warm-up and cool-down. Tempo runs suck, but I didn't get nauseous this time like I've done before. 123m elevation gain, had to walk the steepest hills to keep my HR at 167.
T - 1.5 hour stair climb. Did 805 meters of elevation gain. Fairly happy with that.
W - Evening climbing trip to Hell. Plan was to hop on some routes at a higher grade than I did last time because they're the only ones steep enough to fall on (plan was to do some practice falls). Went on Ekstremsport (n5), but it turned out it wasn't really steep enough. Worked on it a few tries but was too scared of falling to pull over the final lip. Was maybe about 0.5 meters from the top bolts. But it was a learning experience, and I'm learning that if I'm going to get bummed out for every failure I have I'll just spend all my time being sad. Might as well see the positive side.
T - Off
F - 2 hour bouldering session, working on some projects at the gym. Fared even worse than last time because I forgot the beta, but was able to get halfway up a problem I couldn't even do the first move on a few weeks ago. Tried the problem with wooden holds again, and it's so slippery I'll just not try it again.
Evening: Did another 1.5 hour stair climb. Suddenly I blew through my 1 hour elevation gain record of around 600 and set a new PR of 793m. Did 1138 meters in 1.5 hour. Don't know where that came from. The previous record was set in a zone 3 workout with 165 HR, this new record in a zone 2 workout with 157 HR.
Sa - Inlaws were visiting, so day off besides some walking about.
Su - Inlaws were tired after a long day of sightseeing, so I sneaked in a 2.5 hour stair climbing session. Did 1405 meters of elevation gain.
I am getting stronger, actually. I can almost send problems that I couldn't do earlier now, indoors. Especially overhangs I'm starting to figure out.
M - Tempo run. Ran 7 km in about 40 minutes, with 10 minute warm-up and cool-down. Tempo runs suck, but I didn't get nauseous this time like I've done before. 123m elevation gain, had to walk the steepest hills to keep my HR at 167.
T - 1.5 hour stair climb. Did 805 meters of elevation gain. Fairly happy with that.
W - Evening climbing trip to Hell. Plan was to hop on some routes at a higher grade than I did last time because they're the only ones steep enough to fall on (plan was to do some practice falls). Went on Ekstremsport (n5), but it turned out it wasn't really steep enough. Worked on it a few tries but was too scared of falling to pull over the final lip. Was maybe about 0.5 meters from the top bolts. But it was a learning experience, and I'm learning that if I'm going to get bummed out for every failure I have I'll just spend all my time being sad. Might as well see the positive side.
T - Off
F - 2 hour bouldering session, working on some projects at the gym. Fared even worse than last time because I forgot the beta, but was able to get halfway up a problem I couldn't even do the first move on a few weeks ago. Tried the problem with wooden holds again, and it's so slippery I'll just not try it again.
Evening: Did another 1.5 hour stair climb. Suddenly I blew through my 1 hour elevation gain record of around 600 and set a new PR of 793m. Did 1138 meters in 1.5 hour. Don't know where that came from. The previous record was set in a zone 3 workout with 165 HR, this new record in a zone 2 workout with 157 HR.
Sa - Inlaws were visiting, so day off besides some walking about.
Su - Inlaws were tired after a long day of sightseeing, so I sneaked in a 2.5 hour stair climbing session. Did 1405 meters of elevation gain.
Post edited at 13:27
In reply to guy127917: Hi and thanks, first wall session went very badly. Really tried to limit myself both time wise and difficulty but obviously failed. Fine on the day and the next day but then siezed up again with a lot of pain-not quite back to step one but not far off, depressing.
Am keeping up all the stretching/theraband massage and treatments and there is improvement but no end in sight right now.
I am going to bow out of Fitclub but as soon as I can do anything again I will be back.
Best wishes to everyone for great training and getting your goals achieved,
Rich
Am keeping up all the stretching/theraband massage and treatments and there is improvement but no end in sight right now.
I am going to bow out of Fitclub but as soon as I can do anything again I will be back.
Best wishes to everyone for great training and getting your goals achieved,
Rich
1
In reply to TheFasting:
I'm sure we've all been on a few of those
The August evening when the midgies in the heather at Wilton One nearly chewed my feet off springs to mind.
> Evening climbing trip toHell.
I'm sure we've all been on a few of those
The August evening when the midgies in the heather at Wilton One nearly chewed my feet off springs to mind.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy - you're going to love it and i'm so jealous you have so long! I'll email you my longer list of beta/tips. So jetlagged - possibly the worst I've ever been, but it was a very short trip and maybe age?!
M - Long day on West Chief. Having lunch on the Memorial Ledge looking down at logging ships on the sound and snowcapped mountains was stunning. Got to go back for some more of this!
T - Early start to get Exasperator (5.10c) in before the torrential rain (great recommendation from Ally). Then recced Shannon Falls in the rain, drank coffee by the sea and had a quick boulder at the Hive in Vancouver (great comp style problems) before airport and home.
W - T nothing
F - Fingerboard
S - Birchen pottering soloing and bouldering
S - Got out too late for stable conditions and kept moving from crag to crag chased by rain clouds. In an opportunistic mood at Curbarb I nipped up The Peapod (HVS 5b) as the rain started. Another one where I felt very comfortable but probably short legs and small fingers help! Completely classic though. God bless Joe Brown.
In other news, I think grit trad season may be over Conditions hot sweaty and lots of midges around.
Cheers Guy - you're going to love it and i'm so jealous you have so long! I'll email you my longer list of beta/tips. So jetlagged - possibly the worst I've ever been, but it was a very short trip and maybe age?!
M - Long day on West Chief. Having lunch on the Memorial Ledge looking down at logging ships on the sound and snowcapped mountains was stunning. Got to go back for some more of this!
T - Early start to get Exasperator (5.10c) in before the torrential rain (great recommendation from Ally). Then recced Shannon Falls in the rain, drank coffee by the sea and had a quick boulder at the Hive in Vancouver (great comp style problems) before airport and home.
W - T nothing
F - Fingerboard
S - Birchen pottering soloing and bouldering
S - Got out too late for stable conditions and kept moving from crag to crag chased by rain clouds. In an opportunistic mood at Curbarb I nipped up The Peapod (HVS 5b) as the rain started. Another one where I felt very comfortable but probably short legs and small fingers help! Completely classic though. God bless Joe Brown.
In other news, I think grit trad season may be over Conditions hot sweaty and lots of midges around.
Post edited at 15:37
2
In reply to guy127917:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 8lbs
M - T - Nowt
W - Indoor routes
T - 5k run
F - S - DIY/Gardening
Managed to loose a pound in weight this week. Not sure how either. Got out to the wall and went for a run as well. We're now officially 2 months from the drop date. The nursery is 99% finished. My wife is obsessing about getting a nursing chair at the moment, but otherwise, we're all done. Lots of stuff purchased like good little capitalist consumers. Cots, wardrobes, drawers, clothes, baby monitors etc etc. Various slings as well so we can at least get out walking again.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 8lbs
M - T - Nowt
W - Indoor routes
T - 5k run
F - S - DIY/Gardening
Managed to loose a pound in weight this week. Not sure how either. Got out to the wall and went for a run as well. We're now officially 2 months from the drop date. The nursery is 99% finished. My wife is obsessing about getting a nursing chair at the moment, but otherwise, we're all done. Lots of stuff purchased like good little capitalist consumers. Cots, wardrobes, drawers, clothes, baby monitors etc etc. Various slings as well so we can at least get out walking again.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. This week has flown by and just realised I've not posted.
Bit hard to remember. Quiet during the week I think (weather) but went to Wales for a comp at the weekend. Stopped off on Friday eve for a climb at Castle Inn. Very convenient, too convenient as lots of people were there. All fine up to 6c apart from one 6b+ I had a wobble on when I couldn't figure a sequence out above a bolt with a bit to go before I could clip. Bottled it. Clip sticked it. Still couldn't figure it out. I think I may have been too intent on not going onto other lines. It has been rather over bolted imo. Need to do some fall practice outdoors.
Sun was low grade single pitch trad at Holyhead.
That was it I think. Weather has been crap since but hoping to get out at the beginning of next week.
Cheers Guy. This week has flown by and just realised I've not posted.
Bit hard to remember. Quiet during the week I think (weather) but went to Wales for a comp at the weekend. Stopped off on Friday eve for a climb at Castle Inn. Very convenient, too convenient as lots of people were there. All fine up to 6c apart from one 6b+ I had a wobble on when I couldn't figure a sequence out above a bolt with a bit to go before I could clip. Bottled it. Clip sticked it. Still couldn't figure it out. I think I may have been too intent on not going onto other lines. It has been rather over bolted imo. Need to do some fall practice outdoors.
Sun was low grade single pitch trad at Holyhead.
That was it I think. Weather has been crap since but hoping to get out at the beginning of next week.
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy
Thanks for doing the stats
It took about 2.5 hours. We pitched the first pitch because there was a party of 3 before us. At the top of the second pitch I asked them if they didn't mind us moving together and passing them quickly at the next belay and they were happy with it. At the top pitch then we came across someone on there second ever lead so we waited again as I thought it would not be very nice for the person if I just climbed past them so we waited. Couldn't complain though as there were some lovely views sat on the ridge. Probably could of done it in an hour if we moved together for all of it.
Not a bad week but not a good week either for me really on the training front. Currently in the process of renovating a house so DIY club is starting to take over.
M - Rest
T - 8 mile 425 meter accent run
W - Rest
T - 10.4 mile 425 meter accent run
F - Rest
S - 5.9 mile 720 meter accent 16kg pack weight
S - 4.1 mile 900 meter accent 17kg pack weight
No climbing last week and I know there hasn't been any this week either
Happy Training
Lee
Hi Guy
Thanks for doing the stats
It took about 2.5 hours. We pitched the first pitch because there was a party of 3 before us. At the top of the second pitch I asked them if they didn't mind us moving together and passing them quickly at the next belay and they were happy with it. At the top pitch then we came across someone on there second ever lead so we waited again as I thought it would not be very nice for the person if I just climbed past them so we waited. Couldn't complain though as there were some lovely views sat on the ridge. Probably could of done it in an hour if we moved together for all of it.
Not a bad week but not a good week either for me really on the training front. Currently in the process of renovating a house so DIY club is starting to take over.
M - Rest
T - 8 mile 425 meter accent run
W - Rest
T - 10.4 mile 425 meter accent run
F - Rest
S - 5.9 mile 720 meter accent 16kg pack weight
S - 4.1 mile 900 meter accent 17kg pack weight
No climbing last week and I know there hasn't been any this week either
Happy Training
Lee
In reply to guy127917:
Eek probably too late but I didn't do anything interesting anyway due to ENDLESS RAIN.
Cycle commute most days, indoor bouldering once, one evening far too tired trying to toperope something I had no patience for.
The most interesting thing that happened was that I started a 100-day yoga challenge on Saturday - do yoga every day even if just a few minutes. I'm hoping this will have a positive effect on my climbing too, time will tell...
Eek probably too late but I didn't do anything interesting anyway due to ENDLESS RAIN.
Cycle commute most days, indoor bouldering once, one evening far too tired trying to toperope something I had no patience for.
The most interesting thing that happened was that I started a 100-day yoga challenge on Saturday - do yoga every day even if just a few minutes. I'm hoping this will have a positive effect on my climbing too, time will tell...
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