UKC

Hi guys,

I will be doing a road trip with my girlfriend this August from North Italy all the way to Portugal. We want to drive through South France, North Spain, Galicia and then down to Lisbon. What places do you suggest, must go's, in these regions? We only do Sport climbing, rope of 60 mtrs long up to 6C's. 15 Quick draws but willing to get more if needed.

In Italy and Portugal we already have an idea of where to climb.

Many many thanks in advance to the ones that read and are willing to give us some suggestions. Much appreciated.

Joao

In reply to Joaopacheco:

Hard to find shady crags that time of the year. Something availlabe in Orgon, something in Esterel / Gorge du Blavet. In Spain, Margalef has shady stuff.

In reply to Joaopacheco:

I'm not aware of many shady crags in Provence, although I'm sure there must be plenty. When you get to the Pyrenees there are plenty of options in Ariège, either shady or higher altitude, and then you really should head over to Cavaillers, which is a proper mid-summer venue.

In reply to tjekel:

Many thanks! Margalef does seem like a good option. I will definitely look into Orgon and Esterel. Great stuff.

In reply to john arran:

Wow. Thanks for the info. I'm going to check these spots for sure. I'm sure we'll be able to find something suitable.

In reply to Joaopacheco:

Riglos. Unique and amazing, Multipitch potatoes. Shady faces.

In reply to Joaopacheco:

I highly recommend the sport climbing in and around the Picos De Europa, where it's often a bit cooler than the rest of Spain. http://rocaverdeclimbing.com/?page_id=96

San Fausto in Navarra (near Pamplona) is excellent for climbing in the 6s, and I seem to remember has reasonable shade from about midday onwards.

As good as Riglos is, it will be very hot in August (this year seems warmer than previous years), and not much fun with just a single 60m rope, as many of the descents involve a fair bit of abseiling.

In reply to tjekel:
In southern France, ceuse is a very reliable summer crag, but the danger is you may well abandon the rest of your road trip. Nearby orpierre has plenty to do too. St leger du ventoux and malaucene also fine in august.

In reply to Joaopacheco:

in the pyrenees you find heaven. google where Im you ll see centre artisanal de rebouc 65250 france.
contact brixton climber's club for more info
brixton climber

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Thanks Jon. I did forget to mention that I will be doing my first multi pitch in two weeks in Dolomites so I don't think I'll adventure that much on my own.

But I will definitely keep this crag in mind for the future when I'm more experienced and have twin ropes

In reply to brixton climber:

Thank you Brixton climber. Rebouc is now on my list. Pyrenees does sound like a good option.

In reply to KA:

Pamplona is a city on our route as I want to make a stop there so San Fausto could be an option. Picos is also a must.

In reply to GDes:

Wow. Thank you for the great tips. Ceuse and Orpierre were already considered options. Will check the other two and make a decision. Unfortunately we will only have about 20 days for this so can't visit everything..

In reply to Joaopacheco:

Plenty of good climbing in the shade at rodellar.

In reply to Joaopacheco:
Plenty to have a go at in Northern Spain along the Picos de Europa (Roca Verde guide available) and the Basque Country (guia de escalada en alava - desnivel). A great thing about these places is that they are far from the maddening crowds that gather in the better know Catalan crags. So many good crags, lots to do in the summer; shady cags, shady butresses of cags. Spanish guides are mint: they fully take into account shade, suitability for summer climbing and water access. Personal favourites were Poo de Cabrales (awsome tufa climbing), Valdegovia (beautiful setting a tonne to go at - some chipped routes though but only at higher grades) and Apellániz (just mint).
Have a good time!

In reply to The Connor-Crabb:

This article currently in desnivel.com should also help: 66 summer venues in Spain

http://desnivel.com/escalada-roca/66-zonas-recomendables-para-escalar-en-ve...

In reply to Joaopacheco:

FYI, a very good Basque friend of mine mentioned to me once that Etxauri (most extensive crag near Pamplona) would be too hot for much of the summer, so it may only be worth heading there if it's particularly cool.

A new guidebook for the Hermida Gorge (in the Picos) will be available any time now: http://rocaverdeclimbing.com/?page_id=1086