/ Aiguille du Chardonnet descent

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J Whittaker - on 11 Jul 2017
Has anyone climbed on the Chardonnet recently?

How was the descent? Id like to know if it's possible to ab off on a single 60m or if we'd need two. Guide book has 3 x 25m abs but im sure i remember seeing somewhere people saying they needed 2 x 50's to get over the bergschrund.
Karl Wooffindin on 11 Jul 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:

Did it a few years ago - 1 x 60 metre got down to the Bergschrund fine but we did have to do a thread anchor in the rock as the gaps between bolts was quite large. It had been a long day, so maybe we missed an obvious belay station
Tim Sparrow on 11 Jul 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:
There was an article in High magazine back in the 90s describing a couple who slipped on the ice at the col, went the distance clearing the bergschrund. Dusted themselves off and walked (maybe limped) back to the hut!
Who needs an abseil?!
Post edited at 18:03
Tim Davies - on 11 Jul 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:

Conditions sound a bit awkward and icy.

I recall one long abseil


Pas de changements significatifs du côté du bassin du Tour à part la descente du Chardonnet qui redevient compliquée (beaucoup de glace). L'arête Forbes peut être envisagée mais les nombreux passages de glace exigent une bonne technique. L'éperon Migot n'est plus d'actualité.
Calvi - on 12 Jul 2017
In reply to Tim Sparrow:

Two climbers fell from near the Col Adams Reilly to their deaths in June 1987, be careful.
Simon Richardson - on 12 Jul 2017
In reply to J Whittaker:

Descended the Chardonnet on Thursday. You need two 60m ropes to pass the bergschrunds in two separate abseils. Upper descent gully is combination of rubble and bare ice ice making for a time consuming descent at the moment.
Solaris - on 13 Jul 2017
In reply to Simon Richardson:
> Upper descent gully is combination of rubble and bare ice...

Wow, that seems early.

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Simon Richardson - on 13 Jul 2017
In reply to Solaris:

Yes, the dry winter and warm spring have not been good news. At the end of June the mountains looked bare - like September after a hot summer. Some snow at the begining of July helped, but it was only superfical and has probably gone by now.
Solaris - on 13 Jul 2017
In reply to Simon Richardson:

Cheers. A pity for those heading to Cham. Sounds like another 2015 year.

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