UKC

Climbing in Europe without a car

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Maja 12 Jul 2017
Hi friends!

I'm looking for a good place to go climbing in Europe in late July/early August, however I won't have a car... Can't afford to rent one either since I've been on the road for 7 months already. Any beta on places to go that has reasonable temperatures + is within walking distance of a guesthouse/campground? Or a place where it's easy (ish) to hitch hike to the crags. I climb French grade 6a-6c and my partners from 5s to low 7s, sport or bouldering! Any advice is much appreciated!!

Cheers, Maja
 Toerag 12 Jul 2017
In reply to Maja:

You could come to Guernsey. All the crags are within a 10 minute walk of the main round island road with buses every 30 minutes or so. La Baillotterie campsite is on a main bus route. No sport, only seacliff trad and headland bouldering. We can lend you mats. Or you can hire bikes and camp at Fauxquets valley which is 10-20 minutes ride from the crags. It's a shame you'll miss our climbing festival at the end of August. www.gmc.org.gg
 Matt Amos 12 Jul 2017
In reply to Toerag:

If I wanted to browse ukc for the best Guernsey had to offer which crags would you point me too?
 Toerag 13 Jul 2017
In reply to Matt Amos:
Pleinmont Point, Gull Zawn, La Congrelle, Mont Herault area, Le Bigard main cliff. Not all routes are on UKC, so check out the online guidebook on the GMC site as well (and even that isn't finished either).
Post edited at 01:32
Maja 13 Jul 2017
In reply to Toerag:

Thanks for a good recommendation but I don't climb much trad just yet .. For the future!
 ThunderBeest 13 Jul 2017
In reply to Maja:

Go to Spain, Siurana, El Chorro, everything is close to the campsites and in general the entire Europe is easy to hitchhike. The question is more wether or not it is too hot there..
2
 tmawer 13 Jul 2017
In reply to Maja:

Britain remains in europe for the time being, so how about basing yourself around Settle or Portland for the British summer?
 tjekel 13 Jul 2017
In reply to Maja:

Omis, Croatia ... camping and sea and walkin all on foot, and shady crags availlable.

Orgon, southern France, shade availlable, still hot.

Alpine stuff with huts/camping

*Muttejopfhütte
*Horpurglhütte (both Austria)

Cinque Torre, Dolomites

Just some suggestions ...
 slowmotion 23 Jul 2017
In reply to Maja:

Hi,

I'm flying to Barcelona 30th July and hiring a car. I'm heading to Rodellar and returning 9th August. Happy to give you a lift and share some of the cost!!
 climberchristy 02 Aug 2017
In reply to tjekel:

I agree Omis is really good for access to sea and crag, but I climbed there today, and it was hot: car temperature reading got up to 39°in shade and 42°in sun. I like the heat and climb OK in it but the OP might want somewhere cooler.
 tjekel 03 Aug 2017
In reply to climberchristy:

Well - temperatures this week problay have been the highest of the year this week. It's been hot at at 2500m asl in austrie, so i can imagine omis ...
 Kevster 05 Aug 2017
In reply to Maja:

You don't say where you're travelling from, if you're too skint to hire a car, saying Norway or kalymnos won't help. Surely budget getting there is also a significant factor?

As for trad, unless you do it, you won't get into it. Maybe worth planning committing to at some point?

Enjoy your travels.
 zv 06 Aug 2017
In reply to Maja:

Siurana could work well for you. From Reus bus station there is a bus to Cornudella de Monsabt. From there it's a 6km very easy hitch to the campsite.
Once there you don't need a car and there is a huge amount of climbing in the shade with many world class sectors coming in the shade in the morning or afternoon.

Similar story with Margalef although transport to there is a bit more tricky. There is a small minivan that drives there from Reus as well.

Have fun!

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