UKC

Hi folks,
I'm going to have some free time in the afternoons to get out to the peak over the coming weeks and would like to use it to start working some harder routes on solo top rope as partners out my way aren't always available and I'd feel a little guilty asking them to belay me while I work a route for a few hours. I'm currently pretty solid at E2 with a few E3's ticked. What I'd like is some suggesting for E4/5's on eastern grit that aren't classics but are good introductions to their respective grades. Thanks for any advice offered.

In reply to Tigger:
I've been in that boat and I have to say I find shunting grit monumentally unrewarding. The routes usually just have one or two hard moves, often with rests, so given that you have to faff with the ropes before finding out whether the moves are the right level of difficulty or not, it can be a total waste of time. If it's hard moves on grit you want, go bouldering, surely?

Limestone is better suited to shunting, being steep and pumpy. The classic easy-to-toprope E4 is Cabbage Crack (E4 6a), about 7a. For stamina, laps on Wee Doris (E4 5c), about 6b+/c. Stoney is in general quite a good place for shunting IMO, so long as you don't mind climbing in a dump and the routes being shite.

Millstone is a good exception to the pointlessness of top roping grit. The Rack (E5 6a) is a good fingery route - about 6c+ but there must be lots more there that are reasonably long and pumpy.

I haven't used my shunt in ages. If I want to go climbing on my todd and don't fancy bouldering, I just go somewhere with a good pumpy traverse.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Maybe it depends whether you're shunting the route just for the hell of it or as practice for a lead?

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Yea, thanks for the suggestions but if I just wanted to get the mileage in I'd head for an indoor wall. What I'm after is some experience at 'the next grade' and to push my limits a bit in the process.

In reply to Tigger:


Tricky really. I wanted pretty much the same thing initially, but finding the route that's the right level of difficulty, worthwhile but not a classic isn't easy. I tried Badly Bitten (E4 6a), which was OK (but it's jut a boulder problem a bit off the ground - this is grit) and Improbability Drive (E3 6b) is close if that's too easy. Happy shunting :/

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Wee Doris must be polished glass by now? It was already getting badly polished by the late 70's, due to all the ritual top rope speed contests.

I would imagine Cabbage Crack and Scarab must be following suit also?

In reply to Goucho:



Yes exactly. That's why they're good for toproping - you can't ruin them any more!

In reply to Tigger:

Next I'll just need to explore the minefield that is solo top rope set ups and safety...

In reply to Tigger:

Why not just go bouldering and top rope with partners when they're available? I'm sure you'd make gains faster that way.

In reply to pasbury:

Speaking personally, it can be quite nice to work a route in your own time and not worry about holding up climbing partners from more interesting things.

In reply to Michael Gordon:
Other than rigging up a shunt with a back up what are my other options for a solo top rope set up? Will the new Wild Country Revo be suitable (when it finally gets released)?

In reply to Tigger:

Climb with a gri gri and pull it through as you go. Tie back up knots so you dont hit the ground. Advantage vs shunt is that its easier to get up and down. Not always possible and pumpy but good training. Obviously there are some disadvantages but it works!

In reply to Tigger:

I would buy a shunt. Brilliant bit of kit and very reliable provided you have it running smoothly with the rope weighted.

In reply to Michael Gordon:

After an hour or so of research I've concluded that the shunt topic is a bit of a mine field.... if I were to use a shunt with my gri gri for back up what would be the best way to set up the system? Can anyone direct me to a video/ tutorial please?

In reply to Tigger:

I don't think you can use them together unless you use 2 ropes one on each , otherwise the shunt is for going up and the gri gri is for going down , if your unsure how to transfer between the 2 , practice just off the floor !! Email me if you need any instruction - can be dodgy

In reply to Tigger:

I've been using a shunt without any real backup for years and never had any problems.

In reply to Tigger:



Petzl do not advocate the use of a shunt for self belaying:

https://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/FAQ/can-i-use-the-shunt-to-self-belay#.Vnkri...

They recommend these methods for single rope self belaying:

https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Installation-on-one-single-rope-with-two-as...

And these method for self belaying using two ropes:

https://m.petzl.com/GB/en/Sport/Setting-up-a-self-belay-system-on-two-ropes...

In reply to Christheclimber:

Yea I did come across that, however I figure as long as I use a suitable back up for the shunt I would be willing to trust it, the methods in the Petzl look a like pricey as well especially as I haven't got any of that gear to hand.
Thanks for the for the pointers and alternative solutions though.

In reply to Tigger:

The shunt works fine. Just come up with a chest harness rig so you never fall too far onto it and it moves smoothly, you'll soon figure it out.

There's loads of lesser travelled E4/5/6's on grit that will be great on a shunt. Sets the scene well for a solo as well or a quick headpoint. Look for the stuff that doesn't get stars in the guide, they're usually a little gritty (who would have thought) and often quite insecure/weird which is great fun on a shunt.

It's also a great way to get comfy on that grit weird techiness which then makes you much more likely to onsight the harder classics down the line.

In reply to MischaHY:

Thanks bud, I've been looking at shunt set ups with a chest sling/ harness to keep it elevated and cant find any pictures of how to set it up correctly, have you got any links to a resource that will help please?

In reply to Tigger:


Have you seen this:

http://www.needlesports.com/content/self-belaying.aspx

Not sure where you are based but if you pop into the Outside shop in Hathersage they will show you a mangled shunt and how they can fail.

In reply to Tigger:

I use a pretty simple setup - 60 or 80cm sling as a chest harness, fastened together with the same HMS that the shunt is attached too. This is then extended down to the belay loop with a mid-length quickdraw dogbone sling and attached with a smaller screwgate.

Works great and means that the shunt is kept at chest height and therefore will never be fallen on, merely weighted from below. It'd also be pretty simply to attach a small ascension device such as a Kong Duck or Ropeman etc above the shunt on a slightly extended sling or short length of rope so that if the shunt slips you've got a back up - this should be pushed up pretty easily by the shunt.

The rope will also need to be anchored/weighted at the bottom in order for the shunt to run. Rucksack with a few rocks in works well but bear in mind it needs to be suspended above the ground.