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picos de europa Route recommendations?

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 Kemics 02 Aug 2017
I've got the cicerone guide and a PDF one off the net but it seems like most of the information for picos de europa is about 10 years out of date.

I'm heading out in September with the girlfriend who can second VS. Does anyone have any recommendations for routes to do there? Anything from walks, via Ferata, easy long routes...harder sport routes?

Very open to any suggestions, she's chosen some beach days in return, I can pick some days in the hills

Thanks
 spenser 02 Aug 2017
In reply to Kemics:

Currently out in the Picos, did La Cepeda on the Second day here, long walk in to the Naranjo but good climbing, one 6a pi. We walked the cares gorge today which was good, poncebos to Bulnes passed through some impressive rock architecture too. Heading up to do espolon De Los franceses tomorrow which looks fun.
 mike123 02 Aug 2017
In reply to Steve Crowe:
Any idea if it's available in Spain Steve ?
Edit : as in locally to the crag ?
Post edited at 20:25
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 03 Aug 2017
In reply to mike123:

Yes it is:
in La Hermida: try La Cuadrona and Andaras
in the superb town of Potes try Tienda Indiana, Bar La Reunion, Libreria Vela, Bustamante de Potes

More details here
http://rocaverdeclimbing.com/?p=1207
 Simon Caldwell 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Kemics:

In addition to the Cicerone and the PDF we also used http://www.rockrun.com/products/Cordillera-Cantabrica-Escaladas-De-Los-Pico... - only in Spanish but we managed to make out enough to get by.

Best route of our trip was undoubtedly Via Nani (TD-) - we'd intended doing the Normal route but there were queues so did this instead which turned out miles better

Other highlights include
Madejuno-Tiro Llago traverse (AD) - fine long ridge traverse, can be finished at various points
La Alfonsada (D) - starting up Divertimento (D+) - a bit of a mish-mash of pitches from different routes but the setting is fantastic
Espolón Rojizo (AD+) good 6 pitch route with a nice exposed finish

Some bolted routes at on the edge of the Picos, my favourite was Custo colero (variant) (5c) though we weren;t sure which pitches from which routes we were actually doing!
 Trangia 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Kemics:
How is your GF with exposed multi pitch abseiling, including swinging about on the face to locate the next abseil point?

If she's comfortable with it, then the Ordinary Route on the South Face of Naranjo de Bulnes is a superb route - about Hard Severe/VS and not too high in the grade, but abbing is the only way off afterwards.
Post edited at 13:02
 67hours 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Kemics:

I climbed there last year, and the routes at Pena de Fresnidiello (https://www.67hours.co.uk/blog/2016-05-17_pena_de_fresnidiello).

Highly recommend these two routes as well, but they are long if you've only got one person to lead:
https://www.67hours.co.uk/blog/2016-05-18_naranjo_de_bulnes
https://www.67hours.co.uk/blog/2016-05-20_espolon_de_los_franceses

The easiest way up Naranjo from memory is about HS? You climb the line of the abseil (roughly speaking). Looked like great fun, but still a big day out.
 Elsier 03 Aug 2017
In reply to Kemics:

Also there is some nice sport climbing at Cuevas del Mar if you want both beach and climbing.
OP Kemics 04 Aug 2017
thanks everyone for the tips,

I think realistically the girlfriend might struggle with alpine epics :/ although we did commando ridge the other day and she was happy moving together on very easy ground...but has been known to have the old melt down on a multi pitch!
 spenser 05 Aug 2017
In reply to Kemics:

I can definitely unrecommend Esperon De Los Franceses, the cicerone guide wildly understates the route with approximately the same length of scrambling necessary to get off the mountain as there is Climbing on the route. My team got benighted and had to bivvy on a ledge, another team on the meet did it in one go yesterday and didn't finish the walk off until about 2AM having started at 6AM the previous day.
General beta:
Use the water taps at the huts, they are often the only source of water in the area.
Naranjo De Bulnes campsite is good but takes about 45 minutes to drive up to the parking for the nearest big crags. There is a local lad working there at the moment who is a trainee mountain guide called Wan, he is really helpful when it comes to beta on routes and approaches if you are staying there.
If you end up doing something on the Naranjo get hold of the Alberto Boza guide, not cheap but photo topos of each pitch are really helpful.
The 1:25K adrados maps seem to be the most well favoured, either available on Amazon or in the local outdoor shops in Arenas.
If you have any specific beta questions about where to eat and where to park please feel free to drop me a message and I'll see if I can help.
OP Kemics 05 Aug 2017
In reply to KA:

Thanks ken, those via Ferrata links are really useful
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