/ Sport climbing near Dartmoor / Okehampton

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pennyhale on 10 Aug 2017
Hello,
Just looking for some recommendations for some Sport climbing around Dartmoor. Have car so can drive a few miles away.
We can squeeze in an afternoon before we have to do family stuff, so if there's anything with easy access that would be great.
Grades from 4+ to 6b.
Thanks!
Penny
petegunn on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to pennyhale:

Not sure that there's many venues near you in that grade range.

Torbryan Quarry all quite hard.

Anstey's Cove again all quite stiff

The best area would be Portland but that's too far away??

Some bouldering on the moors might suit better and would be a lot closer.

Someone else might know better,
There has been some recent bolting at the Cheesering
Cheesewring Quarry

Pete

bouldery bits - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to pennyhale:

I'd go bouldering on the Moor myself.


Then again, I'd pick bouldering on the Moor over most activities so I'm biased.

scope on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to pennyhale:

There is no sport climbing on Dartmoor. In fact there's very little in Devon. Torbryan has one 6b, everything else is 6c upwards. Ansteys has a couple of 6as and I think 2 6bs. Churston quarries has a couple of 6as and 6bs. Apart from that, Portland is the nearest I think.
pennyhale on 11 Aug 2017
In reply to pennyhale:

OK all, thanks for the info.
Sometimes it seems there isn't enough out there in the lower grade ranges... does everyone really climb 7's ??!
Guess we need to up our grade!
Trangia on 11 Aug 2017
In reply to pennyhale:



> Guess we need to up our grade!

Or take up Trad?

Cheese Monkey - on 11 Aug 2017
In reply to pennyhale:

Redpointing is the point of sport climbing for me personally, which alot of people do from 6c+ upwards I would say
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Cusco - on 23:41 Sat
In reply to pennyhale:

That's right. There isn't. It reflects the strong history of adventure and trad in the South West and the local policies, supported by the BMC, and built up over 30 years about where bolts are and are not acceptable. It also reflects the lack of crags where low grade sport routes could be created/unearthed and worth it.

Bolts are not acceptable on Dartmoor (granite).

The only place for low grade sport in the region is Portland which is like Marmite (some love it, some hate it) and is a long day trip from Okey.

Drive to Bonehill on the Moors, chill out and have a picnic with the family and do lots of bouldering in between armed with the guide on the Javu website.

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