UKC

Have week's holiday in early Sept booked for Mallorca (Majorca?) and don't really know much about the place at all apart from Chris Sharma seems to like doing deep water solos there.

My very vague impression is that it's like Kalymonos in some way. I think of Kalymnos as quintessential new school sport climbing: very steep walls or caves, big moves on big holds etc. Is that what Mallorca is like?

I also gather it will be hot there in September. I've heard that there are cooler crags up in the mountains. Which are the best shady crags for this time of the year - mainly climbing in the 7s. (Probably won't do much DWS as I only have one chalk bag and pair of boots.)

What guidebooks are there? I see there's a Rockfax from last year. Is there an up to date definitive guide somewhere or is Rockfax the only one?

Also are there any decent photos of the climbing there on the web some place? There's some on here but they're all low res and somewhat limited.

How are the grades? Soft like Kalymnos or more like UK and France?

Any other advice and info appreciated.

Thanks.

In reply to stp:

Surely the coolest is, by definition, the one with Chris Sharma's 9b DWS on it?

I'll get me coat.

In reply to stp:

First trip earlier this year with the new Rockfax guide which was brilliant and has great coverage of the island. We found grades similar to Costa Blanca if that helps.
Stayed in an AirBNB farmhouse which was pretty central, excellent road network means you can get to all corners of the island really quickly.
Climbing on the coastal crags was excellent especially east and southeast. Generally really impressed with bolting and belays. Inland crags can be found that are shady. One in particular which has been developed by a German Couple who own a local hostel (you'll find it in Rockfax) was lovely and shady on a very hot day.
Overall a lovely destination, and the limestone isn't as trashed as the Costa Blanca. Enjoy!

In reply to stp:

I've climbed in Mallorca quite a lot and find the grades roughly comparable to mainland Spain but poss a tad harsher at times. The exception to this is some of the new sectors at Caimari, sector es Raconet for example has some softer touches in the 7s.

The range of climbing is huge from steep and juggy to thin and slabby (just like Kalymnos actually)

Unlike Kalymnos the routes are not concentrated into such a small geographical area so more driving involved.

Island as a whole is beautiful.

In terms of shade, Caimari is a great bet. Sector Cueva is in shade all day. Colgau at 7b is awesome. The other walls at Caimari are in shade until mid afternoon, so you can start on them then swap to Cueva when the sun appears.

Fraguel is awesome crag. Shaded in afternoon. Beautiful setting. Lots of grade 7s. Jungle hop 7a+ is fab.

If you're only there a week these two crags alone will give you more than enough to go at.

If you want any more specifics on routes etc then message me and I'll be happy to help.

In reply to climberchristy:

The gorge blau is up high in the mountains so stays a few degs cooler. It has routes on either side so its possible to follow the shade through the day.